DRYER OVERHEATING:
Heating Element
A defective heating element can make a dryer too hot. If the element partially shorts out, it can produce heat all the time, regardless of whether the dryer is calling for heat. Remove the heating element to inspect it. The coils should not be touching each other or anything else.
Other Causes and Conditions
Air Flow Problem
Dryers need good ventilation to work properly. If the vent is clogged it can make the dryer too hot. Clean all of the vent tubing thoroughly.
Cycling Thermostat
Although not common, a defective cycling thermostat can make the dryer too hot. The cycling thermostat is supposed to turn on and off the heat to maintain the proper temperature. If the thermostat is defective it may keep the heat on too long. The thermostat is not adjustable or repairable, it must be replaced.
Felt Seal
Most dryers have a felt seal at the front and rear of the drum to keep the heat inside the drum. If the felt seal is worn away or missing, the dryer may keep heating and make the dryer too hot. This is not common.
Blower Wheel
A defective blower wheel will not spin properly and will not vent the hot air, making the dryer too hot. Check to see if there is adequate airflow out of the dryer.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3m5NZvY9V5Q
SOURCE: gas dryer wont get hot
The first thing to check is the thermal fuse. It is located in the back of the dryer, and you need to remove the back panel to get to it, which involves taking out about a dozen screws. To check it, unplug the dryer, pull the wires off the thermal fuse, connect them to each other with an alligator clip lead, plug the dryer in and see if the dryer gets hot.
SOURCE: Whirlpool dryer gets too hot and won't cool during
check to see if your heater element has been grounded (broke and touching housing) and if not, replace your timer
SOURCE: dryer shuts off when it gets hot but restarts
1.Remove your exhaust duck on the back of the dryer and clean it.
2.Make sure your exhaust going to the outside vent isn,t clog.
3.Check thermostat.
SOURCE: want get hot
If your dryer still runs, but does NOT heat, the following two links can give you advice on how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice
Your problem may or may not be related to a heating element problem as there are numerous factors that can cause a dryer not to heat.
First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.
If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.
NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.
The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.
If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.
On a Whirlpool Duet or Kenmore Elite model, the heating circuits are located inside the dryer under the dryer drum on the right hand side. You will need to remove the lower toe panel under the door to access. The toe panel comes off by locating and removing the screws under the bottom front edge of the panel.
The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.
If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.
Replacement parts (if required) may be found at the following websites:
searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com
The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare. The first three websites I listed have helpful exploded view parts diagrams that can help you locate and properly identify any parts you may need. The heating components are usually listed under the "Bulkhead" section.
NOTE: In many cases the problem is not the heating element. The heating element has protection devices that are designed to regulate the heat and internal temperatures. If the dryer overheats the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) typically will blow BEFORE the heating element. The replacement kit is much cheaper than purchasing a new heating element that may or may not be the problem.
Read through the information I provided and, if you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information is helpful.
NOTE: If your model number is not listed on some of the websites, use the part numbers from the Sears website and use that as your search criteria. Some model numbers will not reference on some sites, but the part numbers will.
Repairclinic.com has a repair manual that you can purchase that will also help repair any Whirlpool manufactured gas or electric dryer. The part number is 1159257.
SOURCE: I have a Roper front
sounds like that u r only getting 120 volts instead of 220 i would suspect either a wire has burnt off or something or a wire is lose in the receptacle or possibly one side of the breaker has burnt out in the breaker box
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