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Re: 08 lancer battery keeps going dead tried 3 new...
Based upon what you have said, it would seem that you have something that is causing a continuous battery drain. Have you added any new electronics to the vehicle that may have accidentally been wired up to a constant hot source instead of one that is controlled by the ignition switch? Many enthusiasts accidentally install stereo amps directly to hot and find they never shut off, killing the battery. If you are skilled at electronic troubleshooting, you may be able to track down a wiring problem yourself. I will warn you that many repair shops will attempt to diagnose your problem, but few are trained to do it efficiently. If you decide to pay a pro to fix it, go to an Auto Electric specialist. They charge more per hour, but will take far fewer hours to locate and repair the problem than the corner mechanic.
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Before replacing alternator check that the drive belt is at correct tension, it should only move up and sown by a finger width or two.
If you do replace, them again make sure belt is correctly set. It may not be necessary to replace battery, try charging battery first, and seeing if the new alternator keeps iit powered
If you know for sure the battery, alternator, and serpentine are OK. then (A) you might need more power to start than your battery can produce. This is not likely because the jump battery does the job. (B) are not really charging because of a bad connection at ground, battery cable, or fuse. You can test this with a volt meter. You might try checking the battery condition just after running by turning on the headlights and see what they do when you try to start. You can check it again a few hours later. (C) Something in the car is draining power. You can check this by (1) disconnecting the ground cable at the battery, (2) charging the battery, (3) connect a test lamp between the the battery cable and the battery. If the test lamp glows, some device is pulling power with the ignition off. Pull fuses one at a time until the test light goes out. (replace the fuses if the light stays on.) Then find the component on the fuse that is grounded and fix it. Look for simple stuff like a wire with bad insultion at one spot or maybe a bad cigar lighter.
Sounds like something is causing a power drain. If you know how to use an amp meter it's not too hard to find it. Disconnect the positive terminal from the battery with the meter set on amp put one lead from the meter on the battery terminal the other to the cable you took off the battery so that the current goes through the meter if it shows a drain pull out one fuse at a time until no drain seen then just check what that fuse goes to.
When a car battery gets low, the windows won't necessarily move extremely slow - you may still have functionality, but not enough power to start the vehicle. Charge up the battery or replace it if it is more than 4-5 yrs old. As for the screeching sound, its possible a loose alternator belt could cause that - if the belt is too loose the alternator might not be charging the battery properly. Another possibility is the alternator is binding and that can cause the screeching too. Remove the drive belt and try to rotate the alternator by hand - if there is excessive resistance you might be looking at a new alternator too. Most automotive parts stores will test your battery and charging system for free if you ask them.
take the negative side of the battery off and then remove the drive belt and there should be a belt tensioner near the belt take the pressure of the belt by using the 3/8 or a 1/2 in sockets and make sure you use the right side socket if needed
Yes, there is definitely a fault with your camera.
You should be able to return it for a replacement.
I wouldn't experiment too much with batteries in this camera. batteries discharging this quickly are likely to overheat, causing unmentionable catastrophe.
Here's the key parts of the electrical system. Battery: the source of your electrical energy Alternator: The charging source for the battery. Driven by the engines rotation via a fan belt Regulator: tells the alternator when your battery needs to be charged and how much. The Load: all of the devices that use the batteries energy
If you have replaced the battery 3 times we can rule out the battery as the problem You had the alternator check and it passed. We can rule out the alternator The load: It's fixed and for the most part you can control most of this with knobs on the dash That leaves only the regulator. If the regulator is giving bad info to the alternator that could account for the problem.
Try this ( if you don't have a voltmeter, places like AutoZone can make these measurements) Start the engine and measure the voltage at the output of the alternator. It should be about 13.5 to 14.0 volts. Then measure the voltage at the battery terminals. It should read the same as what you got at the alternator. If it's not,check the battery cables for clean bright connectors. Use a battery terminal brush to clean the. If this still doesn't help check the regulator.