R u sure circuit breaker is good? did u check the washer terminal black or timer for voltage??
The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again.
Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.
If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run the additional loads.
You don't say if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.
If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps.
If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker.
Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker.
The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.
To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.
If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc
Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.
Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and replacing the lid switchis probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.
WASHER WILL NOT START:
Power
If your washing machine won't start, begin by looking at the power source. First of all, is the washing machine plugged in? If it is, has it tripped a circuit breaker or blown a fuse? Check and reset the breaker (or replace the fuse) if necessary.
Lid Switch
The main control for the washing machine is the switch inside the lid. If this has stopped working for some reason, your washing machine won't start. It's not especially difficult to troubleshoot this on a washing machine. You might have to open the top to access the switch. With the power on, depress the switch and listen for a click. If you don't hear one, the switch MAY BE BAD and will need to be replaced. Confirm defectiveness with a multi meter checking for continuity OHMS. An open circuit reflects a bad switch..
If the switch works but the washing machine still won't start, check to see if your washing machine has a special fuse for the lid switch. It will usually be inside the control panel. If it's blown, you'll need to replace it before the washing machine will start.
Door Interlock
The problem could be with the door interlock. If the lights come on but the machine won't start, this might well be the cause. This could either be down to the wiring that runs to the door interlock, or the door catch not activating the interlock itself.
Timer Knob
Some models of washing machine use a mechanical timer knob and won't run until the water in the machine has filled to the selected level. If the knob doesn't line up properly with the graphics on the control panel, you can try to troubleshoot the washing machine problem by advancing the timer a little. When you've done this, pull it out a little way and see if the washing machine will start properly.
Push start switch may need to be tested with a multi meter for continuity OHMS should show a closed circuit when pushed in or turned on.
Overheating
If you've run several loads, one after another, without any problem but suddenly find your washing machine refuses to start, overheating could be the cause. The simple way to discover whether this is the problem is to give the machine ample time to cool down, say for a couple of hours, and then try it again. If it works fine, overheating has been the problem and you may have a motor with bad windings.
SOURCE: du error code on a kenmore elite oasis he what
Door unlock failure
Excessive force on door lid is preventing lock bolt from
retracting.
Wash media buildup is preventing lock bolt from retracting.
Machine/motor control cannot determine if door lid is in an
unlocked state. See TEST #8, page 14
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SOURCE: What does the error code F51 mean on the kenmore
The F51 error code indicates that the control is not sensing proper motor movement through the signals from the RPS (rotor position sensor) circuit. This can be caused by several different problems. Make sure that you are not overloading the washer. Overloading can cause this problem. A toy or foreign object could be under the washer that is interfering with motor rotation. With the washer empty, spin the basket inside the washer tub to see if it spins relatively easily. If not, you could an item caught between the spin basket and the tub. You could have a wire harness problem causing signals to not be transmitted properly between the RPS and the machine control board. A failed RPS sensor or a failed control board could also cause this problem.
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SOURCE: Hello, I have a
The F50 error code indicates that the RPS (rotor position sensor) detects no motor rotation. Check to see if the basket spins freely. If not, you could have an item caught between the outer tub and the inner spin basket. A toy or other item underneath the washer could also prevent the basket from spinning and would result in this F50 code.
If the basket spins freely, you could have a wiring failure that would prevent the motor from spinning.
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SOURCE: Kenmore Elite Oasis HE 27072. Keep getting UL
Check the Vibration damper rods to be sure that...
1. They are there and mount is solid.
2. If they are broken in 1/2.
3. The plastic knuckle mounts are not missing/broken.
4. There is oil in the shock absorber/spring section of the rods.
Also - there are suspension springs on the bottom of the tub that could be broken and/or missing.
Replace/repair as necessary.
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