I would check your brushes first, to make sure they are long enough AND not sticking. A trailblazer has three (middle common) so if one outside loses connection, you will lose either weld or aux power, depending on the end.
SOURCE: my miller matic 35 welds and stops after about 2
these need a good power supply , i looked and did not see the duty cycle on this welder if you are doing heavy welding 100% power it will need 30- 40 minutes to cool of to weld again. it all depends on the units duty cycle, stated on the welder spec plate ..can you bypass the auto feed speed mode ? this might be the issue.. good luck ..use all the protection you can when welding these are like the sun and can and will burn exposed skin and eyes .. if'n i was any help throw me a bone and vote thanks jay
SOURCE: Miller Trailblazer, welds great for about 30
Sounds pretty normal. These units are not rated to weld continuously. They might only be rated at 5-10% for cheap welders and longer for better ones. They are never designed to run continuously. You need to get into the higher end ($$$) before you get that ability.
You can try to blow cool air into the unit to help it cool. Sometimes this can extend the work time.Basically you can try that or work to your temp cut off limit as you have been or upgrade to a better unit. That is about all you can do.
SOURCE: I have a miller trailblazer
Hi:
Probably your machines just overloaded; the engine will run and produce voltage but no weld output.
Check your fuses F1 and F2, if they are open replace them.
Both fuses are located at left hand side of machine, open it and you will find them on the bracket.
Good Luck.
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SOURCE: have a miller trailblazer 302.
Hi, well i am sorry to tell you but one should NEVER "Jump Start" a machine such as this... replacing the battery with a good one well OK, starting from another Car, Truck, system & battery is BAD.
This procedure is usually done by simply paralleling the remote battery across the existing battery, this can and will often cause damage, sometimes one may "Get away with it" but on the whole it will damage things..
I think H & 0 error codes, have to do with the charging system?
It will most likely be this, "Jump starting" that has damaged the electronics in the system? In any event a flat battery is a no no.. there should be no condition that the battery should have gone flat? It should have been charged up via the recharging system inbuilt into the W/G. Of course this may indeed be the problem, as in there is a existing fault that caused the battery NOT to be charged?
Neither of those CB's has very much bearing on anything, unless they are "Tripped" which from what you indicate they were not. There are no other fuse panels etc to my knowledge?
You are going to have to get in a professional as if what i suspect is true then you will need certain electronic boards replaced.. only a thorough professional testing and inspection will tell.
If one ever MUST remote start any battery started device FIRST one must completely remove the battery connections from BOTH ends, and then and only then, may one connect up the jumper cables, always using the Earth which is connected First, and then the Positive, Remote terminal first then connect to the device. To disconnect the reverse is followed, the Positive is removed from the NON Remote end, FIRST, then the other positive end from the remote terminal, then the Earths can be removed. This will stop any spike surges or other "nasties" from .affecting the system.
SOURCE: I have a miller wildcat
Hi:
The most common problem is the oil pressure switch. First make sure your machine has the oil up to the level line. If oil level is ok, then order the oil pressure switch and change it. If neither of these two actions cure the problem then send it in to be inspected by an authorized service mechanic.
Good luck
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