Hello Ray;
My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.
Ok, It may have been the water bottle. But, you have an old unit.
So, lets check it out once more.
1.) After time, from the heat, the plastic tubing for both your water lines to the water dispenser and ice maker will dry rot and crack.
Check: Pull your unit out. Have someone draw a glass of water from the water dispenser, while observing in the back both the water supply valve and the larger plastic tubing going to the water dispenser. Is there a leak when pressurized?
2.) Wait for when your ice maker fills and observe the smaller plastic tubing. Does it leak under pressure.
Part Number: Substitution: 4387492 Cost: $10.00
3.) Drain Pan - This too will crack over time do to heat. Pull your unit out so you can get behind it. Remove the lower back cover.. There are about 8 screws easily removed. Observe the drain tube from the under body of your refrigerator and the black drain pan where it empties. Observe around the drain pan. Are there and brown or dark stains on the floor? If so, then you have a cracked drain pan.
Repair: Unplug the refrigerator. The compressor and surrounding copper tubing prevent you from replacing the pan. When I was in the field, I would take duct tape and seal the cracked area. Then, I would cover the duct tape and surrounding area with a high temp silicone adhesive.
Testimonial: "Thank you for your help..that is a lot of information!"
Hello Patty; Disregard the above answer. I do not know how you ended up on the below question page. Is that really your picture. Oh, if I were 20 years younger. Ok! OK! If I were 35 years younger. Anyway, I know thw components that you need to check but it will not be easy. You are getting ice cubes. Are the ice cubes small? If so you may have a bad water supply valve and not getting the 60 PSI water pressure to open the larger water supply solenoid valve for the water dispenser. So, Lets check the valve. Pull you unit out so you can get behind it. Unplug the refrigerator. Remove the lower bottom cover. Cover the solenoid with towels to protect the electrical wires. See Picture. Dual valve P/N Substitution: W10408179 Cost: $75.00. Obtain extra towels and a small bucket. Turn the water supply valve off. The is still water in the line. The connection to the water valve is a quick disconnect. There may be a small black locking ring on the quick disconnect. Remove this. Push down on the top of the quick disconnect and pull the tubing out. Have your bucket ready to drain the water from the tubing. Put the end of the tubing into the bucket. If the water flow contiunes with the valve turned off then your water valve is plugged up. Reconnect the water tube to the water valve and replace the valve. Use a hair dryer to dry all of the electrical before plugging you unit back in
Ok, To determine if the water solenoid valve is bad, you can disconnect the electrical connectors and Ohm the larger diameter tubing solenoid out to '0' Ohms if the valve is good.
Let check the dispenser. Remove the cover plate. The cover plate has some flex but is easy to break the side tabs This cover plate and touch pad assembly cost $112.00. There may be two slots in the bottom of the frame. With a flat head screw driver, pop the bottom out. Then push in on the sides to release the clips. If there is no slots on the bottom then start by pushing in in the frame sides. See Picture. Ground yourself by touching something bare metal. Static electricity will knock out a board. Disconnect the touch pad at the connector. Set the frame aside. You should have removed the drip tray first. You will see your main control board and paddel arm assembly. Inspect the paddle are to see if it is broken. You may have to remove the main control board. Disconnect it and swing it to the side. You will see a housing the holds two contact switches. Inspect the housing to see if the retaining pins are broken. See picture. 
This is a $10.00 item. You have two contact switches One for the ice and one for the water. The switch slides off the pins. You need to Ohm out the switch to '0' while holding in the buttom to determine if it is bad. If all checks out then you have a bad water filter. See picture.
You are looking at a $350.00 - $450.00 repair. If the cost of the repair is 1/3 or more than the original price, then buy new. Some components such as your main board are no longer available. Go on line and search "Sears Outlet (Scratch and Dent) Store. You can save several hundred dollars on a new unit and have a one year warantee.
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Thank you so much! That is a lot of information... I may just go without the water in the door I really don't want to mess everything else up just trying to fix the water dispenser. All that sounds a little complicated for a "regular" person to do. LOL Thank you for all your help!
Ok, Then here is what you do. If your unit is under 10 yesr old you can get a "SMART" Agreement form Sears Home Services. Have your model number, serial number and date of manufacture available from the label on the inside of your fresh food section wall. This agreement covers you for $500.00 per service call. If you make 3 service calls a year you are covered for $500.00 each service call. Make sure you ask for the "Smart" Protection Agreement and do not let them take you into the "Master Protection Agreement", which is more expensive. If the price is reasonable get the "SMART" agreement. Wait 3 weeks. Then, call to schedule an appointment. Us technicians do not care if the agreement is new. Our job is to repair the unit and get on to the next 10-13 service calls, 6 days a week. Oh, that is really not your picture right?
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