I have filmed an operator doing arc welding. Will it hurt your eyes to watch the film? Do you need to use a welding lens?

To repair this camera will be well over $100; my opinion not worth it. You would be better served purchasing another camera of the same type from ebay. An alternative terrific camera is the Pentax K1000, better yet K1000 SE. The SE has a split viewfinder, easy to focus. The K1000 have microprism that are more difficult to focus with especially in lower light; need good eyes. Then there is the Pentax K2, that at the time was their top of the line camera. All three cameras can be purchased for about $100-ish. Most will come with the Pentax 50mm f/2.0 lens.

It comes out white cause you just took the picture. It takes a few moments to "develop" the picture that will be on the card. If you don't see nothing maybe the lens was covered...but it most likely be black as in something was on the card and developed.
how to load film here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vq8JguPxq3w


see more here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?annotation_id=annotation_90634&feature=iv&src_vid=Vq8JguPxq3w&v=-00VbGm3uzs

The camera should operate perfectly fine without a lens. It should also operate perfectly fine without film (other than for not taking any pictures, of course).
I know this is stupid, but make sure the batteries are inserted in the proper direction. Then make sure the film advance mode selector around the shutter release button is not in the "L" position. L is for Lock, S is for single-frame, and C is for continuous.
If you need a manual you may download a copy here.

Your camera is equipped with a sports setting on the command dial see diagram
Diagram here

This setting will freeze fast moving subjects and if you keep your finger on the shutter it will shoot continuously. Knot knowing how bright the playing field is I'm going to suggest going with a good ISO 800 film. My preference is Fujifilm but I don't know where in the world you are and you may have access to an 800 speed film on another brand. You have a great lens for doing this so camera lens film and the sport setting should be all you need with the Rebel XS. Now one thing if the built in flash decides to pop up just close it down. What I use to do if the flash became annoying was I set a little black bag over it and carried a couple sets of batteries. I liked using this mode because it let me concentrate on the players, game and composition rather then fiddling with the camera controls, let it do it's thing you just need to capture the action. Watch for the shutter speed blinking which will indicate that the shutter speed has dropped into a 1/60 or less zone and camera shake my blur the picture. Another setting I used was AV which is aperture value still using the Fujifilm ISO 800 I would set the aperture on the lens at F5.6 my lens was an F4, if your lens is say an F3.5 you would use F4.5. In AV mode you will not have the flash pop up or the shutter speed warning. Focus is the big thing you can blur the whole picture put if the players eye are sharp and clear you just aced the shot. Motion blur shows movement but focus on the eyes open the frame up show some of the players environment and you will be the hero in the club house when the pictures come in. Another thing Don't cheap out on the processing get a good custom lab to process the film one that is going to correct the pictures not run 'em through on auto feed. Take lots of film and plan on using all of it. Cheers have fun at the game(s)

Description: Sleek and stylish, the exciting new Nikon One-Touch Zoom 90QD offers real zoom power in a lightweight, easy-to-use design. The One-Touch Zoom 90QD has a sharp, clear, 2.5x zoom lens with a 38-90mm range and a macro mode for shots as close as 11 inches. The One-Touch Zoom 90QD features a built-in automatic flash with five versatile modes (auto flash, anytime flash, flash cancel, slow sync and red-eye reduction). The active infrared autofocus, infinity focus (for landscapes and faraway subjects), real-image zoom viewfinder and fully automatic exposure control all help to ensure clear and balanced photos.

Depth 2.1 in. Film Type 35mm Width 4.6 in. Height 2.5 in. UPC 018208018789 Battery Type 1 x 3V Lithium Battery (CR-2) Weight 7.84 oz. Self Timer Yes Camera Type Point and Shoot Focus Type Autofocus Minimum Focus Distance 1 ft. ISO Range - Automatic Setting ISO 100 - 800 Red Eye Reduction With Red Eye Reduction Zoom Size 2.4 Auto Exposure Yes Min Aperture f10.5 Waterproof No Max Aperture f4.8 Zoom Lens With Zoom Lens Zoom Range 38 mm - 90 mm

User Manual can not be found up to now. Very soon will be available.

Please say what model of camera you're using.

You may not have loaded the film properly so that it wasn't wound forward after each exposure. Sometimes the film leader isn't picked up by the wind-on mechanism. Check the frame indicator moves as you wind the film on. Also operate the shutter without film and with the back open. You should see a flash of light through the lens if the shutter operates.

1/16th stick to 3/32nd.
3/32nd being the maximum. Don't use 3/32 for an extended period of time, or you can burn up that welder. (Even if it has a fan. If it doesn't have a fan built-in, I invite you to put a house box fan, close to the ventilation slots for the welder)

I would also recommend using 6011 rod. It's a mild steel rod, and is excellent to begin with. Usually used for filling, and medium strength situations. It does splatter, be aware of that.

Not trying to give you a tutorial on beginning welding, but would like to offer some tips:

1.Make sure the ground clamp has a good, clean surface it's clamped to. If not, it will be very hard to get the rod started, and also to keep it going. (Makes bad welds too)

2.Start with a B U T T weld. (Had to type it that way do to censorship of certain words)
That's laying two pieces of metal next to each other, and laying a bead in-between them. Easiest thing to start with. Go to corner welds next, (Two pieces together at a 90 degree angle), then try Uphill welds.

3.Shield flipped up on helmet, welder on. Lay the rod past the area you are going to start on. Past the metal edge. Lay the ->flux coating of the rod on the edge of the metal piece. The tip of the rod is past the metal edge by at least two inches.

This way you are lined up to begin the weld. Then flip your shield down, draw the rod back, until the tip of the rod touches the metal. Once the arc starts, lift the rod up a little to get the correct height, and keep that arc going.

4.Watch the PUDDLE, not the arc! You are watching the melted metal in front of the arc. You need to see how that puddle is doing, in order to compensate by bringing the rod closer, or further away.

5.Use a Zig-Zag pattern to begin with. Keep the Zig-Zag close to each other, until you are comfortable enough to make a longer pattern. Watch the penetration. Good penetration is the key, not a pretty weld.

6.Use the proper safety equipment. If the welding helmet lens has a tiny little scratch, you will burn your eyes. NO fun, believe me!
You won't know it until you wake up the next day with your eyes swelled shut!

Cover your arms, and use welding gloves. Welders give can give you a radiation burn, worse than a bad sunburn. NEVER just start welding a little with No welding helmet. Welding goggles are for the birds, or Acetylene welding!

Be safe, have fun welding!

Is your lens attached....some models won't operate in certain modes without the lens attached.

If you don't need a zoom, the best film P & S that you can get for what you described is an Olympus! It is the Olympus Stylus Epic which has a very sharp 35 mm f2.8 lens. The f2.8 lens with an ISO 800 or the new ISO 1600 film should fit your bill for low light, fast shutter speed photography. B & H has it for $80. Popular Photography magazine once called it the biggest bargain of all times for no-flash photography.