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The first thing to check is the condenser coil at the bottom of the freezer. Take the slatted front cover off at the bottom where the compressor is located. You will see the conderser coils. This looks like a radiator with aluminum fins, about 16 by 16 inches square. Be sure the coils are clean. Since the compressor is close to the floor it pulls a lot of dust into the coils. You may need to take a long stiff bristle brush to get as much dust as possible off the coils. If this is stopped up, the unit will definately overheat very quickly. While you are down there make sure the fan behind the coils is running. There are several reasons the fan might stop running. The motor can burn out, something can impede the fan blades such as paper, or sometimes rodents. If the fan isn't running the compressor will overheat and shut off. Once you check these basic things, you may then have to address the problem of dissapating the heat. The answer to your question is yes, it will shut down if it gets too hot. You need plenty of air space behind and over the unit in your situation. The air needs to flow into the front bottom section of this unit and flow freely out the back. All commercial refrigeration is designed to operate in 75 degree areas. As your room temperature increases the efficiency of the freezer will decrease. It is not uncommon to find these units in kitchens where the temperature is 85 even 90 degrees. They will continue to work, but will probably run all the time. I would think if you could get 3 to 4 inches of space at the back of the unit and the two feet above the unit with clean coils and properly running fans, you should get better results. You MUST have free flowing air to keep the unit running. The ideal situation is to have the air flow directly through from front to the back of the compressor compartment. In your case, you may have to move the freezer away from the back wall and allow the air to flow up the back of the freezer and out over the top into the room. 2 inch holes are not enough.
Check the condenser fan underneath the unit accessable form the back behind the cardboard cover. It should be running when the compressor runs.
Check the evaporator behind the rear cover inside the freezer. Check for ice build up. . Light frost everywhere(NORMAL)
or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR
If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer
are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of
cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.
check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In
most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board.
If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control
inspect the unit for a fan near the compressor not to be alarmed some do not have a fan if so insure that it is running while the compressor is running also some defrost problems will cause this the unit runs for a long time heating the compressor and by way passing the heat along
If you checked the fan and for ice on the back wall (for defrost problem) Then you most likely are low on freon or you have a bad compressor. Check to see if the compressor is running (IF scorching hot its bad too) . Next check to see if the coils under the unit are hot. They should be so hot you cant hold onto them. Just touch for a second. If they are just warm, then you are low in freon.
Usually the compressor runs pretty warm anyway. However if you think it's too hot I would start with the condenser coils located either under the unit or on occasion they are located on the back. The air flow across these coils as well as the airflow around the compressor must be maintained. I forgot to ask if the condenser fan is running. Check and make sure that the Fan is running and the air flow is good. Also, When you transported the unit did you move it standing vertically like it normally stands or did you lay it on its side. If you transported the unit on its side you must wait a minimum of 24 to 48 hours prior to start up or the unit could be ruined permanently. The refrigerant has to be utilized through the compressor as a gas. If the unit is on its side liquid refrigerant could be introduced into the compressor and can cause permanent damage. If this is the case I recommend that you turn the unit off at once and wait the 36 hours for the Refrigerant to settle then try it again. This transportation rule applies for any appliance That uses refrigerant, Air Conditioners etc. These units are not that hard to diagnose. The only other item that is usually a problem is the defrost timer. It is not very expensive and can also cause some of the same symptoms that you are eluding to. The defrost timer allows the freezer to periodically shut down to prevent the buildup of frost or ice on he evaporator coils and on the inside the unit. If it is defective, then the unit will either run all the time and cause the evaporator coils to freeze up or will not allow the compressor to switch on and it will not freeze like it should.
check light inside .on? you got power. check compressor in back on? if no then you probably have a bad stat. open door and look inside for numbered dial. turn max hot to max cold back and forth. if compressor comes on you need a new stat probably. remember only a stat a compressor on these units. if its hot stat should send power to compressor. if power is arriving at compressor and not running then start relay and or start cap are probably bad. but if compressor is running and still no cool then your probably out of freon. unfortunitly these boxes are made with steel tubing in the cabinets. when you move them lots of times the tubing rusts and ruptures. then your all done. new freezer time. they are sealed to the point there are not even a place to apply gages to check charge. you can gently remove power and then stat and jump thermomstat to take it out of equation and if compressor runs you need a new stat. constant power comes in one side of the stat and when the sensing tube is heated it closes the points to the outlet side and puts power to the compressor. there may also be a ground wire usually green be sure to observe which two are power in and power out. usually side by side. good luck
I don't have enough information. Use a freezer thermometer and check the temp. If below 0 probably a bad thermostat. Sides getting hot is normal. Thats how it gets rid of the heat from inside. In the summer a freezer can run over 80% of the time. Again this is normal. Another thing to check is the gasket around the door. See if it is worn or torn and is sealing properly. If there are condensor coils under neath clean them check to see if the fan under there is working when compressor is running. (Not all freezers have coils underneath. Some have them in back, Smaller units just use the side of the cabinet.)
first whirlpool makes a good product as far as the sides being hot good sign the condensing coils are in the sides are supposed to be hot worry if its running and they are cold then not working right ok as far as running modern units useing 134a do have long run times but are not using but same enegry as 100watt light bulb otay
if there is air getting into the freezer because the door is not sealing properly the unit will run because it is sensing it is not cold enough inside. your unit releses the heat from the refrigerant through copper tubing that runs through the cabinet, and thats why it is hot. you need to level the unit make sure the door is sealing on the top bottom and both sides ansd then the freezer will work properly and be able to shut off after it has come down to the proper temp.