Question about Hotpoint RFA60 Bottom Freezer Refrigerator
I purchased my RFA60 about 6 yrs ago. I Quickly experienced problems re salad freezing in the crisper boxes no matter what the thermostat settings were for either the fridge or freezer compartments. Then shortly after that, the drain hole started getting blocked. Water would not drain and would flood the fridge floor. This would then freeze.
Previous experience regarding the drainage problem with another fridge (Lec type) suggested a blockage with food. I tried to clear suspected food blockage with a length of 6mm O/D plastic tubing but hit what I thought was a 'plastic ledge' similar to the other person with the same problem. I pulled the unit away from the wall and tried to clear from below but again seemed to hit something 'solid'. I thought there must be a ledge or other internal obstruction. In desperation, I used the plastic tube to 'blow' all excess water out of the tube from within the fridge compartment, whilst at the same time mopping it up with a cloth. Once as empty as I could get it. I poured hot water down the hole. Nothing happened. Blew it clear again and repeated. I did this a couple of times then the hot water that I had poured down the drain hole suddenly flowed thro and out into the drain tray mounted on the motor/compressor?
Great I thought. Blockage cleared. Drain working. Not so. Within a week, the same thing happened again. I cured it using the same procedure. There was no food blockage. What I discovered was that the water draining down the hole was freezing, at about 8-10 inches down, and this 'ice plug' was preventing water from draining. This now happens all the time, about every two days after clearing. I can't afford a new fridge freezer just yet so I am constantly having to mop up pools of water, that is, if it hasn't frozen in the fridge compartment, before I then do another hot water 'melt through'.
There are two possible explanations as far as I can see.
a) The insulation around the freezer unit and between the freezer unit and the fridge floor has either failed or was never installed/fitted/laid correctly during manufacture ..... a 'Friday afternoon unit'.
b) The thermostat has failed and the freezer is on max permanently.
I e-mailed Hotpoint and they said they could arrange for an engineer to come out and repair it for a fixed cost of £109. They wouldn't offer any exlanation as to the possible cause of the problem
I suppose that is cheaper than a new fridge freezer but at the moment I don't know what to do.
After facing the same issue (defrosting, cleaning the drain,
drain gets blocked again...start again: defrost, etc..) I decided to try to
give it one last go:
2. Clean & rinse the drain (ensure is fully clean and I can pass liquid through the drain).
3. Get a ~30 cm pure copper wire
In my case I took a 3amp power cable, and took the copper wire from one of the cables.
4. Wrap one end of the copper wire around the copper coil at the back of the fridge (where the coil is warmest)
5. Insert the other end of the copper wire in the drain (just above the drip tray). I inserted ~15cm of wire into the drain.
The purpose of these last steps was to ensure there was no "freezing" happening on the drain. The copper effectively will keep the temperature inside the drain above freezing.
Not sure how permanent this might be.. so far at least I'm getting more months than with the previous symptoms treatments ;)
Best of luck!
Posted on Oct 04, 2009
I've had the drain hole freezing problem with an RFA60 for a couple of years. I've tried hot water, salt and anti freeze down the hole to unblock it. Also made small heater with a resistor poked up the drain hole powered from a 12V PSU. These all unblocked the frozen tube but would not last long.
Then i thought why not just removed some of the insulation covering the drain tube.
1. Remove the condenser element on the back of the fridge. Be carefull not to bend the copper tubes too much. Support the bottom of the element and lean the top against wall.
2. Locate the drain hole above the compressor.
3. With a sharp knife remove insulation inline with the hole working upwards slowly in case the tube bends. I removed about 6" until i got to the frozen section. The tube is about 1" below the surface. It was a bit deeper at the frozen point - hence the problem i think.
4. Refit the element. Exposing the drain tube and the heat from the element thawed the frozen section in minutes.
No more puddles inside the fridge!!
Why didn't i think of this sooner.
Posted on Mar 22, 2015
I have had the same problem and to solve it I had to turn the appliance off to allow it to defrost as the blockage was caused by the pipe freezing up.
Posted on Sep 25, 2007
SOURCE: Salad in drawer is freezing
One user claims that the return air vents or vent located at the bottom rear of the fresh food compartment, have collected enough junk to block the cold air from returning to the freezer compartment. You can clean them out but I cannot verify that solution.
The crispers are located in the coldest part of the fresh food compartment.
This problem can occur when the machine gets light usage especially in colder weather, when the machine running time drops and the air in the fresh food stratifies, causing to cold air to pool in the bottom.
Normal may no longer be normal. Controls by their design will tend to run colder as they age. You might try tweaking the control warmer.
Patience and time are the most important tool you have to work with in dealing with this issue.
Posted on Dec 04, 2009
cold,damp air,condensates on warm shiny surfaces(bathroom mirror),try putting kitchen towel under the crisper...(why they put crispers on bottom of fridge instead of on top of the cooling coils at the top of the fridge ???)
Posted on Mar 29, 2010
its most likely ice...take a squeeze bottle or tubing and force water into drain opening. I use a 1/4inch tube and blow into it and then **** some water out and continue this until open...
Posted on Jan 06, 2011
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