What is part number for high limit?? - Gold Medal Products 8068FL Gold Medal - Corn Dog Fryer, 12"""""

This was posted here on Fixya, but the OP updated and said a $3.00 fuse fixed it! Guessing there is a glass fuse on the mainboard.

This kind of Manual High Limit issue can most likely be caused by two things :

1) If it's a Knight XL (399MBH and up), it's equiped with a manual high limit with is located in front of the boiler, behind the front panel just under the display bezzel. It has to be adjusted and reset (with the manual reset button on the control display).

2) If your unit is NOT equipped with that kind of Manuel High Limit, this message means that there was a low voltage wire that was shorted to the ground. Either the flow switch or the thermostat wire. The 24v fuse located on the main control board burned to protect the components. Lucky, Lochinvar provide replacements in the small plastic bag attached to the connection board.

Hope this help. Even if I'm late.

https://www.google.com/search?q=LOCKED+OUT+MAN+RES+HI+LIMIT

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Here's some things that could be causing your issue.
A clogged air filter could be one possible cause.
However I suspect the units high limit switch is the culprit.
This is an image of a high limit switch for visual reference only.

Roger. Thank you for the correct model number ! That helped! Your model has a high limit safety thermostat located either in the back of the range or under the cooktop. The service manual does not specify where, but on previous service calls, we find them usually in the back of the range, behind the metal back panel. This has gone bad. Usually after a self clean. 71001844 THERMOSTAT, HI-LIMIT - $43 and simple to replace.
High Limit Thermostat 71001844

Which model number? Which limit are you exceeding (change limit, high amount limit etc)? If you are not sure, explain the key sequence before the error.

Sounds like the thermostat is working because it does heat to the right temperature, right? The high limit switch is to shut it down when it gets too hot, so why that helps the unit relight and heat up is strange? Is this gas or electric? Since hitting the reset or high limit button is what is working, I would start there, and replace that... I don't think either part is super expensive, so replacing both wouldn't be too expensive, especially since you have one of the best fryers ever made... Keating is number one in my book, and I know they are expensive to start with, but these two parts shouldn't be much....however I would start with the high limit switch or reset button... If you need a part, we can get you a price....I'm Susan with Restaurant Equipment Outlet, Cincinnati, Ohio, 888-542-5959, or you can ask for Paul too. Thanks, Susan REO

The problem is obviously in the heating circuit which is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The most common part that causes the dryer not to heat is the thermal cut-off and/or the high-limit thermostat. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components.

Disconnect power then access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.


Dryers with lint filter on the front.


Dryers with lint filter on the top.

Also bypass the cycling thermostat if the dryer still doesn't heat with the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat bypassed. Check the heating element visually for obvious broken or damaged coil. An ohmmeter will be of great help in checking the resistance/continuity of the heating element. Replace the heating element if broken or damaged, NEVER attempt to repair it.

The problem is likely in the motor centrifugal switch if the dryer still doesn't heat with good heating element and the three components above bypassed. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.

The problem is likely in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat located on the heating element housing. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components. Disconnect power then remove the rear access panel to access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make.



The thermal cut-off (cut-out) and high-limit thermostat are sold as a kit with part number 279816 and costs about $30.

In case the dryer still doesn't heat up with the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and high-limit thermostat bypassed, bypass the cycling thermostat then replace it if the dryer heats up. Check the heating element for broken coils if the dryer still doesn't heat up with the three components mentioned above bypassed.

The problem is obviously in the heating circuit which is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The most common part that causes the dryer not to heat is the thermal cut-off and/or the high-limit thermostat. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components.

Disconnect power then access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.


Dryers with lint filter on the front.


Dryers with lint filter on the top.

Also bypass the cycling thermostat if the dryer still doesn't heat with the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat bypassed. Check the heating element visually for obvious broken or damaged coil. An ohmmeter will be of great help in checking the resistance/continuity of the heating element. Replace the heating element if broken or damaged, NEVER attempt to repair it.

The problem is likely in the motor centrifugal switch if the dryer still doesn't heat with good heating element and the three components above bypassed. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.

The High Limit is a self resetting thermostat that acually works like an oven control. If the fryer is too hot it will cut off the gas burner valve voltage:
OEM PN is 00-854453
Original PN VUL854453

Source 1
http://www.3wire.com/webstore/parts/PartSearchResults.aspx?searchText=Switch+High+Limit&mfrCode=VULCAN
$98.50
Source 2 Must log in.. new account
http://www.a1service.com/vulcan/vulcanlimit.htm
$90.20

The 854453 number comes up often in the part search for the high limit.
The high limit contacts can be checked and reading the NO and NC terminals. This control / switch is normally closed until opened by heat at 450 Deg F.

Thanks for Choosing FixYa,

Kelly

My dryer stopped working, using a multimeter I determined that the thermal fuse was open. I unclogged all the ducts then ordered a high limit thermal kit. After changing the fuse, it blew-up on the first cycle. It turns out that even though the high limit checked ok, it was defective. After changing both the fuse and the thermostat(included in the kit $25), the dryer worked correctly.