Replacing ballast can u show me how to wire in a new ballast? it has 3 wires on one side red, blue and white. the other has a single blue wire.The refer has 2 lights. One light on top, both ends of the have a wht and red wire comming out . The cabinet light there are 2 wires red and wht on each end. Only one red and 2 wht wire cone out at the top of the cabinet near the ballast.

first you need to know that the ballast is 277 volts or you will fry it, 120 volt ballast will not work on a 277 volt system, i suggest that you need to get an electrician to help you with this, if you hook it up wrong it will cause a problem

Wiring is not fully described: Location of hot wire and neutral wire from breaker box are unknown.
If Hot wire arrives in ceiling box first, the switch box will not have white neutral wires that are twisted together and covered with wire nut. Neutrals will be in ceiling box.

What is known: You are replacing single pole switch attached to one 14-2 wire going to light.
You are replacing light with a fan-light and replacing switch with a 3-pole TM8111 switch.
You have replaced 14-2 wire with 12-3 wire.

TM8111 wiring shows following link:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/TM8111-switch-wiring-500.jpg
Fan pull-chain wiring shows following link:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Fan-motor-1-344.jpg
Assume neutrals in ceiling box.
Assume Hot wire in ceiling box: Connect 12-3 black wire to black Hot wire. Connect 12-3 white wire to black wire on light. Connect 12-3 red to red wire on fan.
White neutral from fan and white neutral form light connect to other white neutral wires and covered with wire nut.
Wiring at switch:
Black Hot wire from ceiling box connects to A COM terminal.
White wire to ceiling light connects to A SP2
Red wire to fan connects to A SP1

Need more information, how many lamps are in the fixture? The new ballast is for how many lamps? Basically you need to follow the diagram on the new ballast. If the new ballast is for a four lamp fixture one yellow gets capped and the other yellow goes to one side of each lamp on a two lamp fixture. Then on the other side one set either red or blue goes to the other side of the lamp one wire per lamp and the other set gets capped . Hopefully this helps

The first thiing I suggest is checking the installation instructions (either included with the ballast or on-line) of the ballast you just purchased. Many fluorescent ballasts require that the lamps be wired in series - which I believe is what you had before. One lamp connects between the red & the yellow, the other connects between the yellow & the blue. Other fluorescent ballasts require that the lamps be wired in parallel - which may be what you have now (both lamps connect between the red & the blue). The installation instruction sheets should designate the appropriate wiring configuration.

That being said, just double-check one thing: Make sure the new ballast is rated for 2-lamps. Ballasts rated for 1-lamp will only include the red & the blue (no yellow). So I know you sad you already checked with the destributor, but double-check that one point.

1 Turn off the circuit breaker that's delivering the power to the light fixture.

2 Test the feed wires with a touch-type voltage tester before you touch them. Press the button on the tester and touch the tip of it to each wire to make sure the circuit is dead. If the tester beeps or lights up then the circuit is still live. Try additional breakers until you find the correct one.

3 Strip about 3/4 inch of insulation from the ends of each wire coming from the ballast if they aren't already prepped for wiring. Use the smallest setting on the wire stripper to prevent snapping the wires when you strip them.

4 Take the single red wire from the ballast and insert its tip into one of the two pressure-slots on top of one of the sockets on the same side of the fixture that the red wire is facing.

5 Take a 6-inch length of similar red wire and strip 3/4 inch of insulation at each end, then insert one end into the second slot on the socket that already has the red ballast wire attached and insert the other end into the other socket on that side.

6 Insert the tip of one of the blue wires into the slot on one of the sockets on the other side of the fixture.

7 Insert the tip of the second blue wire into the slot on the other socket on that side of the fixture.

8 Connect the white wire from the feed circuit to the white wire on the ballast and connect the black wire from the feed circuit to the black wire on the ballast. Make sure the wire connectors are on tight and wrap electrical tape around the connections.

9 Put the fixture back together and install the fluorescent tubes as per the manufacturer's instructions. Turn the circuit breaker back on.

GE 15086 programmable timer replaces single-pole switch only.
Single pole means 1 device turns Load on-off.
3-way is where 2 devices turn Load on-off, for example 2 switches located in hallway.

Your existing timer has white, black and blue wires.
Your new timer has white, black, red and green wires.
Green wire connects to bare ground wire in every occasion with every wiring device.

Electricians don't guess, they test the other wires.

Remove old timer.
Separate wires for testing.
Turn on power.
Tape ordinary tester leads to wood sticks to keep hands away from power.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester will light up on Hot wire. The Hot wire will connect to timer black wire.
Now test Hot wire to each other wire (except bare ground)
Tester will light up on Neutral wire. Neutral wire connects to timer white wire.

The remaining wire connects to timer red wire.
After connecting timer, push manual override button to check that Load turns on-off.

Manual override on 15086 is the door that covers buttons > use door as push button to check Load.
Next, program the timer.
Programming is straightforward and similar to other timers.
If you have a problem, add a comment.

You can also take advantage of Fixya phone support. Expert will walk you through the steps for a price.

Dear sir

first do not confuse by the colour of ballast wire, now see black and white wire who is coming from the ballast and find out after that you have to remove it from the joint . and other new ballast replace here and it's wire connect here with that point where you has remove wire black and white wire first from here. and try to fix fluorescent light here and after that try to switch on electric supply for testing. i hope after that it will work.

thank you
hope answer the question
please vote!

i have a light fixture with two single pin T96 bulbs, black and white wire go to one end of the fixture, two red wires come out of other end - one wire on each socket, but a have a ballast with two blue wires and a red wire coming out the same end of ballast, how do i wire this up? thanks Charlie

Motor Wiring
Old Motor
Brown wire is Start
Yellow wire is run or Power
Black wire is High Speed or Common
The other two taps are speed taps, but you have a single speed application
And high speed is what you need ,that’s why there’s not any wires
on Red and Blue if high speed was to much then you would move the
Black wire to one of the other taps RED low speed or Blue Medinm speed
New Motor
White goes to the Yellow wire from the capacitor
Black goes to the Black wire you took off of high speed on old motor
Of course both Brown wires go to the capacitor and Green to ground
If a capacitor doesn’t discharge it doesn’t mean it’s bad
but the capacitors don’t last as long as they used.
Any time you put in a new motor always replace the capacitor
It will save you a lot of time and grief later on.

Sure, you can test by Use the screwdriver and remove the protective cover that conceals the ballast.

Observe the ballast before proceeding. If oil is leaking from the ballast, stop here and remove the ballast. Leaking oil indicates that the ballast is damaged beyond any doubt as the internal seal has been ruptured by excessive heat.

Test the high voltage side for continuity between the wires going to the ballast tombstones. There will be either one or two wires going to each tombstone fixture. Regardless of the number of wires, the colors will be the following: Blue or yellow are the power wires and white is the common or neutral wire. this could differ in many models.

Turn the Volt Ohmmeter to "ohms" and touch the ends of the two probes together. The meter should show continuity or a direct short. Touch the probes of the meter to one of the white wires and one of the colored, blue or yellow, or any wires that comes from the ballast. This should show a short or continuous circuit. If it does not, the ballast is bad and should be replaced.