Brother manual lk3-8430a

Make sure you're using the correct size needle for the fabric you're sewing.
Delicate / Very light weight.... china silk, fine lace, organza....size 8 or 9 .....Light weight taffeta, lining fabric, thin velvet, synthetic sheers size 9, 10 or 11.... Medium weight cotton nylon, crepe, knits, flannel, spandex, linen, poplin, wool, muslin size 12 or 14..... Heavy weight fleece denim, leather, vinyl upholstery fabric size 14 or 16....Very heavy weight ; heavy canvas ; thick leather size 16 or 18

Refer to 'Manuals Online', Brother sewing machine user manual. There is an excellent guide to tension settings for all fabric types. Also remember to check upper and lower thread has been wound through correctly and are using the same thread top and bottom. Ensure you have the correct needle size for denim ie 100/16 and the correct thread size ie 40-50 cotton or heavy duty polyester.

The owner's manual should explain what needle system to use--most US domestic sewing machines take 130/705, but that isn't true for all of them. If your manual doesn't have the information, contact your local Brother dealer.

The size of needle is determined by what you are sewing, ie silk fabric would probably use a Universal needle size 70/10 or smaller. A heavier knit would probably take a Jersey (ballpoint) needle size 80/12 or 90/14. Denim fabric would probably use a Jeans needle size 90/14.

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All About Needles

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Check that you are using a ballpoint needle, designed for knits. Also, be sure that the thread is not 100% cotton thread.

buy Singer brand. Use size 9 for lightweight silky-type fabrics, 11 for ordinary cottons, 14 or 16 for heavier fabrics like denim. Use 'ball point' for knit fabrics, 'sharp' for woven fabrics but 'universal' will work on both. You can always ask the fabric shop ladies, especially if you bring a bit of the fabric that you will be sewing on.

Schmetz make a blue coated needle, usually best for denim fabrics as the coating aids the needle in slipping between tightly woven fibres such as denim. It may also be called a Denim needle.

But you shouldn't need to use that needle for most fabrics, just the most appropriate sized needle and either sharp point for wovens or ball point for knits. Perhaps get a mixed pack of both sharps and ball points to start with.

Try this website if you want to shop for needles on line, http://www.sewingpartsonline.com/sewing-machine-needles.aspx they carry a wide range of types, sizes and brands. Klasse and Schmetz are both high quality needle brands. You want the 130/705H system of needles for your domestic sewing machine. These are the norm for 99% of domestic sewing machines.

There are other needle systems for industrial machines (round tops) and EL705 for overlockers, these are extra long but identical shank design at the top. So just make sure you get the regular needles 130/705H.

In terms of what size to use, here is good reference guide on sewing machine needles.
http://sewing.about.com/od/sewingmachineindex/ig/Sewing-Machine-Needles/Needle-Sizes.--94.htm
The important thing is to change the needle for each new project, ie about 4-6 sewing hours, as a blunt needle will never give good results. If you always start with a new one, and its the right sized needle for the fabric you are sewing, then you should ensure best possible stitching results from your machine.
If the needle is too big, it will leave holes in the fabric, too small and it will break. If you use a sharp point on stretch fabrics, you'll get skipped stitches. If you sew a lycra knit with a ballpoint and it still skips, then change to a "Stretch" needle, this will also be blue coated ballpoint and helps with skipping and needle deflection.

Then there is twin needles, twin stretch needles, winged needles and leather needles, all for special techniques. Never worth trying to scrimp on needles, I have probably have in excess of 40 packs of different sizes and types in my sewing cabinet.

Hope this helps you out.

and they sho

Always pick the needle type and size according to the fabric that you are sewing. I'm assuming if you are "patching" you might be using an iron on patch product on the underside of the garment and you should try to use a similar weight to the garment's fabric weight to do this.

If you are patching denim for example, you'd use a "denim" needle (teflon blue coating to slide through the fibres better) if you can, probably size 90 or 100. If you don't have a denim needle then just a regular 90 or 100 needle will suffice.

If sewing knits, use a ballpoint needle. For leather and vinyl use a Leather needle, these have a different shaped tip to piece the leather.

Try this link for more good general info on needles http://sewing.about.com/od/sewingmachineindex/ig/Sewing-Machine-Needles/ you might want to print out the section on sewing machine needle sizes and pin up in your sewing room.

My sewing needle selection is over 25 different needle packs and I probably buy 4-6 packs a year to ensure I've got the right size on hand. Change your needle for every new project - a needle stays sharp for about 4-6 sewing hours then should be replaced. If you are hearing squeaking or popping noises, your needle is blunt, chuck it.

In the words of my sewing mentor Wendy "Dont spoil the ship for a ha'pworth of tar" .

The thread cassette has no bearing on what needle you use. You need a Schmetz embroidery needle with the red band size 75 for light to medium weight fabrics or a size 90 for heavier fabrics such as denim.

You must use an anti static needle or stretch stitch needle.