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Most buzzes are caused by one of two things: "DIRTY" power or a lifted\non-existent ground. Allow me to explain;
"DIRTY" power is just that. It comes in and carries a lot of static with it. Most newer systems have filters built in on the power side of the main board. The fix? Try running your Magic Sing from a wall socket that doesn't have anything else pulling from that particular circuit. You should also invest in a GOOD power strip and not one that cost $5-$10 bucks. All these are good for is getting power to multiple products simultaneously, AND they don't have the resistors and filters to give you a constant 120v AC.
Monster Cable Co. was a very sought after item up to the point to where Radio Shack no longer carried their products.
If you really want to get your money's worth out of the instruments you buy, don't slack on the power strip. This will be the most costly mistake ANYONE can make.
Here is an article that explains what I did and gives you answers on how to fix this issue.
If you overload them the output MOSFETs fry and tend to take the circuit board and a few resistors out. They are fixable but it's a pain hat the board fries. The tracks need building up with wire so they can carry the necessary current (or any once they fry). Apart from that they are a decent Amp for little bucks and sound pretty good. They'll need micing for anything but smaller venues but the functions are really useful in getting a good sound for the buck.
If you have a voltmeter, you can test to make sure that your powere adapter is putting out the right voltage. (Should say on the label something like 120v IN - 12VDC output.
If it is bad or you don't have a meter to test it... You can get a replacement for less than 10 bucks on Ebay.
If the power is good, you have to move on to power button, etc.
I would call an electronics pro...
Not sure but I have a guy on craigslist where I live that has been trying to sell one for quite some time. He wants 75 bucks for it. If you may be interested I could send you a link.
Try changing out the Pico fuse. Only 50cents from online West Florida Components. Buy a few. Mine went out twice. It is Item # F021. It is a .5amp (500 mA)fuse-green and looks like a resistor. Location on the circuit board is near the transformer and on back edge or board behind the 2 brown wires connecting to the board and to the side of the 4 diodes there. I left the bad fuse in place and soldered the new fuse to it's legs-a lot easier and does not damage the PCB.
Using the Flared side down will fit the bottom strings better since a neck has a natural curve in it so hitting every note fluidly is very easy without getting better sounds out of the strings most of straight slides hit.
Good Luck,
Cody J.
initially you want to think bad solder joint, but it think its a bad mosfet or rectifier or diode. it would be hard for an untrained person to identify your problem let alone an experienced tech. it may be time to move on to another amp. in my shop it would be at least 65 bucks for the repair. so where did the "heat"/energy go from that point and what parts were affected. there may be a domino affect. burn one part, not usually. yostamplifier.com
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