Chain and bar gets hot and cant saw straight - Husqvarna 450 Rancher 18-Inch 50.2cc X-Torq 2-Cycle Gas Powered Chain Saw 966955438 CARB Compliant Bundle - 4 Items

That's an unusual problem, usually the opposite happens. After making sure the chain brake is off, loosen the two nuts that hold the bar. Be sure to hold the bar up when adjusting the tensioner screw and adjust until the chain is just snug, but not too tight. While still holding the bar up, tighten the two nuts firmly. Check to see that the chain can move freely by hand. Then start the saw and run the chain at speed with something in front of the nose to check for adequate lubrication. You should note a slight fine spray of oil on the object in front of the nose of the bar. Inadequate lubrication, a chain that is binding on the bar, or an overly tight chain can cause the bar to heat up and expand, further tightening the chain. A properly adjusted Stihl saw will use almost all of the chain oil in the reservoir for every tank of gas. Too much oil is better than too little. The oil feed may have to be adjusted for operating in temperature extremes. If operating in very hot conditions, be sure that the saw has not run out of chain oil. The oil feeds faster when hot.

Overheating the chain/bar is usually caused by insufficient oil getting to the chain, but can be caused by the chain being too tight to begin with (you should be able to turn the chain by hand), grit in the chain groove, or a poorly sharpened chain. The saw has an oil volume adjustment screw on the lower part of the case near the chain return area. Turning it CCW should increase oil flow. Oil volume can be judged by running the saw tip at speed near some cardboard for a moment--it should throw off a thin line of oil. Chain sharpening condition can be judged by the sawdust residue coming from the cut--if a powder-like material, the teeth are not sharp or are improperly filed. You should not have to bear down excessively on the saw to make it cut quickly. Hope some of this helps!

Some saw manufactures design their oilers to only work with their bars. Are you running the mfg suggested or stock bar? Chain? Stihl Chain is designed to use 30% less oil because of oil groves cut into each drive link directed to the rivets. So if your running an aftermarket bar/chain, the oiling ports may not line up. Especially if it oils with no bar & chain

On the side of the saw where the bar (what the chain goes around/rides on) where it connects to the saw there are a couple nuts. Loosen them up, push the bar back towards the saw to put slack in the chain, wrap the chair around the bar making sure the bottom of the chain is in the groove on the bar and tip of the bar, then push the bar forwards away from the saw to take out the slack in the chain. Hold it tight and tighten up the two nuts. Depending on your model of pole saw, you may have only one nut and a plastic guide that keeps it straight. Same concept though. Loosen the nut, push bar in, put chain on, pull bar out, tighten nut.
If you've ever done it on a bicycle, it's the same concept. Loosen nuts on back wheel, push tire forwards and chain gets loose. Pull it backwards and chain gets tight.

a lot of people have this problem with a chain saw and cant get a strate cut, most of the time its down to them trying to force the saw through the wood and in doing this the saw cuts around corners as there pull is not square to the cut,, let the saw do the work, not you, if your pulling on the saw to make it cut well then it has a very dull or blunt blade,,,is there any side to side "rock" on the chain in this new bar? how have you sharpend it? dose the chain have the same pitch on both side's? are all the teeth cutting at the same depth? if its cutting around corners it could still be the chain pitch worn out, if so the chain is past its best as well, but most of the time its all down to how hard and how squarely your pulling on the blade when cutting,,,the first thing in logging to lurn is to cut squarely no easy task that! just dont force the saw to cut!! it will cut just as fast or faster without forseing it,, if all this still dont get you cutting right change the chain for a new one,,,the only hard work with a chain saw is holding it up to the tree and humping it around not cutting with it, thats the blade's job to do so the faster you try to make it cut the more out of true the cut go's as all your doing is bending the bar out of alinement,,all in all, its two hands for the job and a very gentle pressure on the saw, start the cut with the blade spinning and dont stop the blade in the wood, cut right through

Hi
You must have hit a nail or stone with the one side of the chain. When the chain gets duller on one side than the other is what makes a saw cut at a angle. Get the chain sharpened and it should cut straight again.
Sam

Is your chain oiler working? If you're using saw a lot and the oiler isn't working properly the chain will get hot and bind up especially if the chain is too tight. Tighten the chain so that you can squeeze it in the center of the bar, with your second and third finger on the sides of your fingers (not a very strong grip) and you should be able to almost pull the chain out of the bar guide but not quite. Clean the oiler hole in your bar where the chain oiler injects oil into the bar. You can also run your saw without a bar and chain and see if the oiler is pushing oil out of the injector.

Well, you have 2 choices. First one is to buy a new chain. Second one is to take your chain in somewhere and have a link removed. If you think this chain is that stretched you should check your chain oiler and make sure that it's working. Take the chain and bar off and run the saw and look at the oil port and see if oil is coming out. Also check the oil ports in the bar and make sure they are clear. The only way a chain can get this loose is from wear in the pins in the chain from running dry or too tight. Also make sure the surfaces on the bar where the chain rides are flat and square or your saw wont cut straight. Hope this helps you.

All things are possible but it isn't likely the bar is bent. Are you getting fairly large chips or sawdust? Try raising the rear of the saw a little when she quits cutting. so you have a small contact area instead of a wide flat cut. Run a flat file at an angle along both edges of the bar to remove any wire edge. Let me know what you find you have piqued my curiosity. Lou

Sounds like you're not getting enough oil to the chain. Basically you've got an oil pump, pickup and filter involved in getting oil from the resovior to the chain/bar. If you cleaned the obvious area and the chain is not coated with oil, you may have a clog further up (inside) the oil delivery mechanisms. Also, drain the oil from the tank, and see if you can "blow" air through there. With the saw running & pointed down, you should be able to see oil on the ground being slung off the chain, if not, you are not getting enough oil to the chain.