What settings for underwater photos

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there are advanced color correction modes,
Blue or dark pictures/videos
Keep your shooting distance inside of 2ft to 3ft, depending on
visibility and ambient light.
If you are using only one light, considering adding another light
(dual lights) or/and external flash accessory. The ideal
set-up is a combination of a light plus flash.
Consider purchasing the SeaLife Wide Angle Lens (SL975). The
fisheye lens allows you to get closer to the subject and fit more
into to picture frame.

For SeaLife camera with external light accessory (No external flash):
1) Set the camera's scene mode to Sea mode or Snorkel mode
2) Change camera's PHOTO and VIDEO White Balance
settings to DAYLIGHT.
For SeaLife camera with external light and flash accessories:
1) Set the scene mode to Ext. Flash mode
2) Change the VIDEO White Balance setting to DAYLIGHT.
For other underwater camera brands:
1) Set the Scene mode to "Auto" or "Underwater" scene
mode, as recommended by the camera manufacturer.
2) You may also need to change the White Balance setting to
DAYLIGHT depending on the camera's underwater color
correction or if pictures/video turns out red.

This could be the White Balance setting at time of shooting or at time of Export/Import. Check your White Balance setting, if that is ok, then check your export/import settings on the software you use, perhaps it was changed previously and you may be using the old settings - try using "As-Shot"

If it's "brand new" then I would return it under warrenty for repair or exchange. If for some reason that's not possible, then you need to dry it out internally. One way to do this is to bury the camera in rice. Remove the battery & put camera in a bag of rice and store in a warm place for several days. If you're lucky it will work again after charging the battery. Of course this will NOT fix the problem of leaking, and you'll never be able to use it underwater. So WARRENTY is the way to go.

FREE INFORMATION REGARDING YOUR CAMERA FIRST
The Stylus Tough-3000 can be submerged up to 10 feet underwater and incorporates four preset underwater scene modes as well as the ability to capture HD movies underwater. It can also withstand a five-foot drop and can still perform when the temperature dips well below freezing (14 degrees Fahrenheit; -10 degrees Celsius)
SOLUTION
1. Remove the SIM card , battery, and ensure that your camera is dry 2. reinstall the sim, battery, and if the battery has not been charged or is known to be used, please replace for a new one. 3. Start up your Camera and attempt to take a photo now without using any of the video features. If your still not registering your photos, return for continued assistance.

The SnapSights SS03 is a non waterproof camera supplied with 200 ISO film so you clearly have the SS01 model for 800 ISO. Both cameras have fixed aperture and shutter speed and rely on the wide exposure latitude of print film. 100 ISO is ideal if you have a camera with a wider aperture than yours, but if you use it then photos will be three stops underexposed; you'd possibly get away with this on land but underwater shots typically have more shadows than highlights and you'd lose a lot of photographic detail. By using 800 ISO the camera will produce photos which are noticeably grainy and with high contrast demonstrated by less detail in shadow areas and overexposed highlights, but for most purposes the photos will be acceptable and far better than none at all.

Colour negative film has a wide exposure latitude so you may wish to experiment with using 400 ISO or even 200 ISO. 400 will be one stop underexposed, but the printing stage can compensate to produce shots which are less grainy with better shadow details but which will lack some highlight detail. This can be partially compensated for if you tell the processing lab to "push process" your film at 800 ISO, but this will usually cost extra and for just one stop under I wouldn't bother, 200 ISO is really stretching it though and you may find that results are unacceptable unless you push process. Ultimately, it all depends upon how dark and how deep you go, but at much below 1,5m everything gets a strong blue colour cast anyway unless you use a powerful underwater strobe light mounted away from the lens axis.

Basically your camera is designed just to give you a taste of underwater photography and is very limited in what it can achieve. Even with a good specialist 35mm underwater camera such as the Sea & Sea MotorMarine II I usually find that I only have one or two usable shots on a 36 exposure roll, so if you do get the underwater photography bug then invest in a decent quality underwater digital model which accepts a proper external strobe lamp. The ratio of failed photos is similar, but at least you can review and delete them immediately without expense.

I think you need to buy a Blue Ray burner.

Sadly that symptom indicates that the camera is broken.

The device's seal protects both from the condition that you are seeing, but also protects the internal circuits from moisture.

If water has gotten inside the camera, I would pursue returning it and getting a replacement from the company.
http://www.olympusamerica.com/cpg_section/cpg_servicerepair.asp

My girlfirend just got me this camera and I've noticed that it takes fine pictures when the lighting is good. Under low light (i.e. underwater or in the dark) it's not so hot. I don't think there is a fix for that.

You simply need to hold the button down for a long time, it will flicker blue at first, don't let go of the button, and it'll turn blue for pairing.