Power OK, can smell gas, but no ignition. Get the "E04" code and the LED flashes 3x. Sure would appreciate suggestions!
The EO4 is listed as a Fan Failure. However, these heaters have a tendency to go EO4 for no apparent reason. It is what I call the "heater hic-cupping". The easiest thing to try first is to reset the heaters computer. To do this, you will open the right hand side door, find the POWER toggle switch and move it to OFF. Then turn off the Circuit Breaker to the heater,shutting down all electrical power to the unit. You will need to wait about 15 to 20 minutes before you do anything else.
After that time, revese the order. Turn on the Circuit Breaker, then the Power Switch on the heater. Try and start the heater. The computer will "reboot" flashing codes like --- or 888, do not worry about those. When the display panel comes back to normal, check what the heater is reading for a water temp and compare that to what the water is actually. Hopefully, they will be right on, or close, together. The heater will try to start 3 times before going into "Lock Out" mode.
If it does start, it was just the computer hic-cupping. If it does not start and you receive another EO code, on the backside of the Display Panel, there are Diagnostic Lights. If there is a light on by a couple of letters, like HLS or PS, then that is what is malfunctioning.
Okay, good job finding those lights and I am sorry that the reset did not correct the problem.
Okay, the two lights that are lit are part of the safety features on this heater. The T-FUSE is a single use only fuse that will "crinkle up" if the temp inside the heater. This fuse is mounte on the inner front panel of the heater. It MAY be on the right hand side, but I think it is on the left side. To open the left hand door you need the right side door open, at the top corner of the left door you will feel, or see, a slide lock with a spring. You will need to undo that lock--it does help if you lift up on the bottom of the door. It will sound like you are trying to distroy the heater, but it will eventually open!
The Thermal Fuse is featured on page 22 in the Owner's Manual online at the following site:
http://www.inyopools.com/owners_manual/p...
Figure 23 is what a GOOD Thermal Fuse looks like. If yours is "burnt looking" then you have had a high internal temp in the heater. Which in itself is not good! You may need to go over the heater vents and see if there is a blockage. If no problems within the heater, you will want to have a certified servicer come look at the heater to make sure you did not have a "flame out". This is where the flame escapes from the heat exchanger and actually goes in the heater.
As for the HITEMP light, that should reset after the T-FUSE has been replaced. The heater will not work without a "good" T-FUSE no matter what you try. Please check the manual online to see what you are looking for, then check out the fuse on your heater.
By the sound of your description, the T-FUSE is fine. If it was bad, the black sleeve would be wrinkled up like it was melted. So, that leaves you with the HI TEMP, which is not as bad as the T-FUSE burning!
There are 2 Hi Limits and the Thermister that could be causing the issue. You stated that the pool and display water temps were correct, so that rules out the Thermister. Let's try Hi Limit Switches, it is about the only thing left to try without calling a servicer. I am going to refer to the manual online that I gave you the link for above, just thought you should know that before I start giving page numbers and we both get confused!
If the incoming water temp is fine, then the out going water sensor must be the issue. If you want to, on page 23 there is a brief description of the Hi Limit Switches. Okay, if you look at the parts breakdown on page 33, the Outlet Hi Limit is #17. It is located on the outlet side of the manifold. For all models of MiniMax NT the part number is the same, #471694. On page 30, there is a drawing of where the part goes, it would be the second one from the right, above the manifold. For an actual picture look at page 8, bottom left hand corner photo. You may wnt to check the wiring, make sure that is okay also.
IF you are the original purchaser of the heater, the heater has a 2 year warranty, PARTS and LABOR. You will need proof of purchase, or date of installation, for the warranty. If you had the heater inspected by the city, prior to starting the system, that would work also. I would tell customers to give me the LATEST date possible, so you could get the longest warranty coverage. This may be another option for you to look into. If you know the heater was installed in late July, you are STILL covered! Just another thought!
Okay, let me ask a really unusual question. When you purchased the heater, was it with a new pool? I happen to know that if you purchased three, or more, "qualifying" Pentair products at the same time, you have a 3 Year Warranty. Items like a Pentair pump, filter, heater (you have that!), Intellichlor, automation system, Kreepy Krauly, or color changing lights qualify. Just trying to give the best option here!
If that does not help you out, then yes- replace that part since the T-FUSE is not wrinkled up. That switch is about the only thing that is left. When you start the heater, it goes through the normal start up proceedure then starts over three times before lock out. If you hear the fan begin and resetting the heater does not work, then by process of elimination, it is the Hi Limit Switch.
I HATE telling you to buy a replacement part, but if it will fix the heater and you really are out of warranty, then let's try it.
A good place to get a part is Aqua Pool Supply. They are in California, but the warehouse there has access to Pentair and Sta-Rite parts, really quick. They tend to be pretty cheap also! They usually have a LARGE stock, so they should be able to ship it to you the next day. If they don't have it in stok, they will tell you when it should be arriving.
The link to their site is: http://www.aquapoolsupplyinc.com/
Hey, I am just south of you in Peoria, same weather here! Kind of ruined going out on the river this weekend. The place that you ordered it from is another of the stores that Pentair deals with, so you should be good to go. That is providing the part is what is going wrong, but that is about the only item left! Let me know!!
When you tried to restart the heater, did you hear the fan kick in? Did you try and reset the heater again? Just curious here! If the fan did not start up, it may be the module (FENWAL) or the circuit board.
Call Pentair, I talked to one of the reps, he said that Pentair may cover the warranty up to 2 months after installation. It is worth a shot!
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Thanks for the prompt and complete guidance. Unfortunately, the heater did not start and the symptoms are the same. The temperature reading was accurate, though. Two the green LED on the backside are illuminated; one by "HITEMP" and one by "TFUSE". I'll be grateful for any further help.
Thanks for the prompt and complete guidance. Unfortunately, the heater did not start and the symptoms are the same. The temperature reading was accurate, though. Two the green LED on the backside are illuminated; one by "HITEMP" and one by "TFUSE". I'll be grateful for any further help.
You've really been generous with your suggestions. The fuse looks fine and the black wrap on it is smooth and pliable. Would a failure of the fuse be obvious? All of the vents are completely open and everything is pretty clean and dry. The heater's only 2 years old.
In trying another startup, I got the same results with the same illuminated LED. During the three attempts, I noticed that they all illuminate until ignition fails, then the PV light goes out until until the next attempt. When the cycle of attempts ends, the light by "Fan" goes out, too, and the only the two mentioned above are left on.
If I haven't exhausted your patience, I'm game to try any other suggestions. If I have, thanks for all your help.
You've really been generous with your suggestions. The fuse looks fine and the black wrap on it is smooth and pliable. Would a failure of the fuse be obvious? All of the vents are completely open and everything is pretty clean and dry. The heater's only 2 years old.
In trying another startup, I got the same results with the same illuminated LED. During the three attempts, I noticed that they all illuminate until ignition fails, then the PV light goes out until until the next attempt. When the cycle of attempts ends, the light by "Fan" goes out, too, and the only the two mentioned above are left on.
If I haven't exhausted your patience, I'm game to try any other suggestions. If I have, thanks for all your help.
Once again, very helpful and generous. I had no trouble finding the Hi Limit Switch. (With your guidance, how could I?) But apart from blowing off a few small cobwebs and maple seeds from the manifold and checking the wires and clips (which are like new), I realized I had no way to tell if the Switch was functioning or not. Was your point, given the systems and troubleshooting that you walked me through, that I should replace the switch as the last step before calling a technician? I'm certainly willing to take that step if you suggest it, especially since I'm about 45 days out of warranty, no matter which documents I use. (Naturally.)
Thanks, and I do realize that you're going way beyond the call.
You're great but I'm out of luck on the warranty side. Pretty old pool, pretty new heater bought online. I'll track down a switch - through fixya, if I can - and let you know how things turn out. For now, I hope you know how much your help is appreciated.
I didn't have the sense to wait for your latest suggestion, so have already ordered from poolcenter.com in VA. The price is a few bucks less than aquapoolsupply and a couple of others. I'll let you know about their service when I gratefully report a working heater. With a tornado watch today here in Chicago and a warm forecast for the weekend, I figured I could opt for UPS Ground, so that report should be mid-next week. Have a great weekend.
Turned out to be a decent weekend afterall. I hope you made it on to the river. I have fond memories of Jumer's Lodge but I hear it hasn't aged well.
The part arrived mid-day today and I can commend poolcenter.com to you; lowest price by ~10%, shipped same day, nice tracking utility on the order acknowledgement.
Unfortuntately, installing the new Hi Limit switch didn't fix the problem. Still cycles through to the "E04", creating the gas smell with each of 3 attempts but not igniting. Thanks for all your suggestions and clear explanations. Is the Pentair service number a good place to start to find a reputable technician?
Turned out to be a decent weekend afterall. I hope you made it on to the river. I have fond memories of Jumer's Lodge but I hear it hasn't aged well.
The part arrived mid-day today and I can commend poolcenter.com to you; lowest price by ~10%, shipped same day, nice tracking utility on the order acknowledgement.
Unfortuntately, installing the new Hi Limit switch didn't fix the problem. Still cycles through to the "E04", creating the gas smell with each of 3 attempts but not igniting. Thanks for all your suggestions and clear explanations. Is the Pentair service number a good place to start to find a reputable technician?
Turned out to be a decent weekend afterall. I hope you made it on to the river. I have fond memories of Jumer's Lodge but I hear it hasn't aged well.
The part arrived mid-day today and I can commend poolcenter.com to you; lowest price by ~10%, shipped same day, nice tracking utility on the order acknowledgement.
Unfortuntately, installing the new Hi Limit switch didn't fix the problem. Still cycles through to the "E04", creating the gas smell with each of 3 attempts but not igniting. Thanks for all your suggestions and clear explanations. Is the Pentair service number a good place to start to find a reputable technician?
Boy, I thought I was persistent! I think you want to solve this almost as badly as I do. I appreciate it. Yes, the fan kicks in. And I did try all of the steps you suggested earlier. It really is frustrating since everything seems fine; it just won't ignite the burners.
Also, I owe you an apology. Your efforts and ideas concerning the warranty were based on my lousy memory. I finally found the invoice and we're starting the heater's third season. We installed in late June of 06. Sorry for the bad info.
Boy, I thought I was persistent! I think you want to solve this almost as badly as I do. I appreciate it. Yes, the fan kicks in. And I did try all of the steps you suggested earlier. It really is frustrating since everything seems fine; it just won't ignite the burners.
Also, I owe you an apology. Your efforts and ideas concerning the warranty were based on my lousy memory. I finally found the invoice and we're starting the heater's third season. We installed in late June of 06. Sorry for the bad info.
Pentair solved the problem. Their customer service rep suggested that I check to make sure the igniter was glowing. It wasn't. Makes sense to check the igniter when you're not getting ignition, I suppose, but I'm not the most sensible troubleshooter. They also steered to me to their local rep, who had the part in stock at a price comparable to the online shops. With the new igniter, I'm back to using up fossil fuel to make water unnaturally warm for swimming. The kids are happy. But I already miss my 73 degree pool.
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