Check this all causing not fill water:
- Check that the water supply is turned on. The valve may be located under the sink.
- Check the door latch
- Test the door switch
- Inspect the float assembly
- Inspect the fill tube for kinks
- Test the float switch
- Check the inlet valve filter screens
- Test the water inlet valve
- Test the drain valve lever arm
- Check the drained valve
The water inlet valve can be identified by the water hoses connected to it. One hose will lead from the valve to the pump/motor assembly in the center of the dishwasher. Check that the hoses are securely connected to the valve and that there are no kinks in the hoses which could restrict water flow.
The door switch is a separate part from the door latch and is found inside the cabinet. The switch is off when the door is open. Depressing the switch closes the circuit and enables dishwasher operation. Closing the door does not depress the switch all the way. Only when the door is closed and latched, does the door fully depress the switch.
If the door latch is not properly aligned it may not pull the door tightly closed and the door switch will not be fully depressed. Unless the switch is fully depressed the dishwasher will not operate.
It is a simple matter to determine whether the door latch is theproblem. Simply open the door, close the latch and select a cycle anddepress the switch. Note that if the test is successful, with the dooropen, the dishwasher will operate and water may spray out. Make sure tofirst remove all tools from inside the dishwasher. Do not reach insidethe dishwasher during the test. Now, inspect the cabinet where the doormakes contact with it and locate the door switch. It may have aprotruding button or spike or more likely it is a hole with a piece ofmetal or plastic inside it. You must fully depress that switch. If theswitch is recessed, then use a non-conductive object, such as a woodenpencil, to depress the switch.
If the dishwasher begins to operate during this test, then you have isolated the problem. The door switch is not being fully depressed when the door is latched. There are three likely possibilities:
- The door latch is misaligned.
- The entire door is misaligned.
- The striker for the door switch is damaged or misaligned.
To service the door latch, it may be necessary to access it in the control panel. Access varies by model; on some models you can remove just the control panel on others you must remove the interior or exterior panel of the door.
Before removing the control or interior panel, look first for exposed screws that may allow you to adjust the latch or the strike plate. You may be able to loosen the screws and shift the latch on the door or the strike plate on the cabinet. It may require some trial and error, but you can loosen, adjust, tighten and test until it latches properly.
Good luck ;
Don't forget to rate:
My range door also didn't close all the way at the top. It was ajar about 1/4 inch all the time. The heat coming out over time fried the electronics behind the control panel. Dealer replaced hinges and electronics and it was OK for awhile. Gap opened up again, and this time dealer installed shims at the hinges. He said if it happens again, the frame of the oven would need replacement. Well it has happened again. This is a poorly designed range door, plain and simple. Everyone with this problem should seek restitution from Kitchenaid. This $$$ "professional" range is more show than professional. You have to baby it and never let the door drop on its own weight.
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