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I have a GE profile side by side that has been getting warmer over the last week.Yesterday I removed the panel inside the freezer and there was no frost,I had cleaned the coil underneath earlier in the day but had cleaned them a few months ago anyway. The groundfault on the wall plug started popping sometime later and continued until I quit trying .I plugged it in when I got home today and it immediately popped. Any suggestions I have looked at a lot of these answers but haven't seen anything like this posted!
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Hi yes the flap will cause the frost, you need to replace the solenoid that controls that flap, if this is a side by side, the solenoid is behind the dispenser controls on the freezer door, you take off the control board, and then remove the little mount behind that it has 4 screws and you will see solenoid on right side, it needs to be replaced.
when you removed the back panel if you look on the right side you'll see a round coil next to the fan you have to clean that out at least once a year,if you get a shop vac you can vac off the coil and then set it to blow and blow the coil out to clean it,if your food is staying clod you don't have a problem,when the machine goes into defrost there's a heater in the freezer that melts the ice off of the coil,when it comes on the temp will get warmer for like a half hour or so until it comes out of defrost and starts to cool again.hope this helps
Listen in the freezer side for the fan if you cannot hear or feel the air or fan running you probably need to replace it. Remove the back panel in the freezer to access the fan motor.<br />
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<span id="ctl00_ctl00_MainColumn_CenterColumn_ThreadSolutions1_Repeater1_ctl00_lblSolution">If this was helpful please rate me.<br />IMUFO2<br />Leo Ponder Appliance-Tyler,Texas<br /><a href="mailto:[email protected]">[email protected]</a> </span>
probably a loose thermister. The thermister being not attached to the evap coils tight might not be relaying back the proper resistances info for the control board to make a propper defrost determination.
common problem the water line inside the freezer door is frolzen up . to fix remove everthing from the freezer door , turn off freezer . open freezer door and put a blanket over the opening to the freezer leaveing the door to room temp for an hour or so to defrost . check if defrosted . remove blanket close door . this will happen with ge , try seyying the freezer control on the next lower number (warmer)
If the problem disappears (for a while) when the freezer reaches 32F, then I know what the problem is.
The GE Profile refrigerators (and likely other models as well) often don't defrost properly, especially in humid climates. So they can develop
ice buildup internally, especially if the air vents at the back of the freezer are
blocked by frozen food. Once that happens, that ice can
interfere with the cold air circulation booster fan that runs when the
freezer temperature is too warm. Then you get a LOUD buzzing noise
from the fan blades, as they bang into the ice.
The immediate "solution" is to be sure nothing blocks the air vents, and then to melt the ice that interferes with the
fan. You can turn the fridge off for a while (with the food removed so
it doesn't spoil), and/or get a hair dryer and heat the inside back of the
freezer, until the ice melts and falls away from the fan. (Just be careful
not to block the nozzle of the hair dryer, or it may burn out
from overheating!)
But
the ultimate solution is to buy another refrigerator, one that is NOT
a GE! And that makes me sad, because GE used to make GREAT
refrigerators. My last GE refrigerator is nearly 20 years old, and still works well, and it does so QUIETLY.
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