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When set above 400 or broil oven turns off after 10 minutes and goes in to fan coolingthe oven

Disconnect and reconnect

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Fred Sops

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Might be a bad ignition switch.

Posted on Feb 02, 2015

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Bosch oven cooling fan is continuously on at the same speed and is on always no matter what the temperature is. Upper heating element does not turn red hot in broil mode.


The oven has internal fan at back of oven encircling the element that should get reshot when stat turned up high. Also there is cooling fan under lid to keep the wiring area cool.This should stay on for around ten - fifteen minutes after cooking finished. David "The Famous Forry"

Oct 16, 2017 | Bosch Ovens

1 Answer

Unit shuts off when using broiler


can't broil with door open with these models. If closed, most likely an air flow issue with the cooling fan above in the control panel.

Nov 15, 2013 | Thermador C272 Electric Double Oven

2 Answers

I have a Fridgidaire Model # PLEB30S8CCC wall oven. The broiler works fine. The oven is very slow to heat up, 20 minutes to reach 250. I checked the lower element with a omp meter it read 20. Is that...


Hello there and than you for choosing Fixya
If your oven does not heat, does not heat enough or does not broil, a common cause is a burned out heating element. There are two elements, the baking element on the floor of the oven and the broiling element on the ceiling of the oven. They are about the diameter of a pencil and typically supported by metal stand-offs.
This easiest test you can do is to turn on the oven and observe the heating element. If it glows red, the element is working. When baking, the broiling element may come on to assist with preheating or to maintain the oven temperature. When set to bake, if the broiler comes on, but the baking element does not, the likely cause is a burned out baking element.
When set to broil, the broil element should glow red, but the bake element typically is not used. If the broiler does not glow, it is likely a burned out heating element.
There are other possible causes of these symptoms, refer to our diagnostic page for some other possibilities.
To test the heating element using a multimeter, follow the steps provided below.
  1. Unplug the oven or turn off the power at the breaker or fuse box.
  2. Follow the heating element back to where it goes through the wall of the oven. Remove the bracket that secures the element in place.
  3. Unscrew or unfasten any stand-off supports that secure the element to the oven.
  4. Pull the element part way out to expose the oven's wiring connected the element.
  5. Label the wires and secure them in place so they do not fall back into the cavity.
  6. Disconnect the wires from the element.
  7. Using a multimeter set to x1, touch one probe to each of the element contacts. Expect resistance in the range of 20 to 40 ohms. Infinite or kilo-ohm resistance usually indicates a bad element and it should be replaced.
  8. If the element tests okay, reconnect the wires, slip them back into the cavity and resecure the element.

Jan 26, 2011 | Frigidaire Ovens

1 Answer

Oven shuts off 10 minutes into self clean cycle or while broiling


check for loose connection on the door sensor or micro switch you ay need to change the micro swich if faulty

Jul 28, 2010 | GE 30" Built-In Single Electric Wall Oven...

1 Answer

The oven does'nt seem to be able to heat up above 150, the fan is working, the bottem half of the oven does'nt seem to heating up. Is this fixable or do i need a new oven?


Hi.

If the part that is not heating is only the bottom element, and the top element is heating regularly, then you may need to replace the lower element.
Before replacement the element can be tested removing it from the cavity and reading Ohms at the element terminals, with a multimeter set at Rx1. Disconnect power before removing the element.

If both baking and broiling element do not heath above a certain temperature instead, then the part to be replaced is the temperature probe, still located inside the oven cavity.

Regards.

Mar 04, 2010 | Whirlpool RBS275PD Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

Oven doesn't go on.


Hi.


If both baking and broiling element do not heath above a certain temperature instead, then the part to be replaced is the temperature probe, still located inside the oven cavity.


If the part that is not heating is only one element, then you may need to replace the element.
Before replacement the element can be tested removing it from the cavity and reading Ohms at the element terminals, with a multimeter set at Rx1. Disconnect power before removing the element.
In this case, selecting only baking or only broiling (depending on what element is faulty), the oven will work normally.

If the oven is a gas oven, then you have no element. In that case if the oven burners are working, replace the temperature sensor.

If replacing the temperature sensor does not help, then replace the oven electronic control.

Mar 04, 2010 | GE Ovens

1 Answer

The baking element in the oven does not appear to be working


HI.I would test to confirm the actual issue. This easiest test you can do is to turn on the oven and observe the heating element. If it glows red, the element is working. When baking, the broiling element may come on to assist with preheating or to maintain the oven temperature. When set to bake, if the broiler comes on, but the baking element does not, the likely cause is a burned out baking element.When set to broil, the broil element should glow red, but the bake element typically is not used. If the broiler does not glow, it is likely a burned out heating element.


Use This procedure below to confirm the failure.

With a multimeter, use these steps below to physically test for element functions.

1. Unplug the oven or turn off the power at the breaker or fuse box.

2.Follow the heating element back to where it goes through the wall of the oven. Remove the bracket that secures the element in place.

3. Unscrew or unfasten any stand-off supports that secure the element to the oven.

4.Pull the element part way out to expose the oven's wiring connected the element.

5.Label the wires and secure them in place so they do not fall back into the cavity.

6.Disconnect the wires from the element.

7.Using a multimeter set to x1, touch one probe to each of the element contacts. Expect resistance in the range of 20 to 40 ohms. Infinite or kilo-ohm resistance usually indicates a bad element and it should be replaced.

8.If the element tests okay, reconnect the wires, slip them back into the cavity and re-secure the element.

Oct 05, 2009 | Smeg Ovens

1 Answer

My oven burns everything.


Use a 'oven thermometer' in the oven and determine the 'actual temperature' in the oven. Your knob setting is off (not calibrated) and the oven is hotter than the control knob setting.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_3fa289bf857b1a3c

Sep 16, 2009 | Ovens

2 Answers

F2 error code


Similar problem. When baking over 400 degrees we get the F2 code that can only be reset by cycling the power at the breaker. Replaced the electonics to no avail. I'm thinking its the cooling fan located between the oven and microwave (upper unit) it never comes on which may cause a separate temp switch to generate the F2... but I'm not a pro. :)

Nov 18, 2006 | GE JGRP17 Gas Single Oven

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