The ?USB? line coming out of the unit is cut. is my unit still g?

It could be that the contactor is stuck closed .The contactor is where the compressor wire goes to .There should be 2 low voltage wires (24 volt) that connected to either the side or top back of the contactor ,you can just pull 1 wire out ( shut power off unit first) then when power back on and compressor still run that mean the contactor is bad and needed to be replaced

I am not sure if this will help you out any, but here goes:
Line1 & Line 2 are your Hot Power Wires coming into the motor.
It does not really matter which wire goes to which post of the motor.
This will remain true if you are bringing in 110-115-120 (these are all the same, people just refer to them differently) which also is referred to at times as "Low" voltage, and the same goes for 220-230-240 (again, referred to differently) which is referred to at times as "High" voltage.
Whether bringing in Low voltage or High Voltage, the wires you bring in will number only three:

• Ground
• Hot
• Hot (potentially Hot)

Low Voltage (115) will have:

• 1 Absolute Hot Wire = Line 1. Normally Black
• 1 Potentially Hot Wire = Common/Nuetral Line 2, normally White
• Ground/Earth = Normally Green

High Voltage (220) will have:

• 1 Absolute Hot Wire - Line 1, Normally will be same color as Line 2 or Black/Red
• 1 Absolute Hot Wire - Line 2, Normally will be same color as Line 1 or Red/Black
• Ground - Green

In either of the above voltages, it does not matter which wire goes where, as long as a Hot wire goes onto Line 1 and the other "Hot or Potentially Hot, if 110", goes onto Line 2. Do not put a Hot wire anywhere else and Do Not put a Ground wire on either Line 1 or 2!

Most Motors are coming out of the factory wired for High Voltage Set up (220), so you will have to move some wires or a terminal block, to set the motor to operate at "Low" voltage (115). These motors are "Dual" Voltage, they have the capability to run either 110 or 220. But they don't magically know which voltage is being supplied.

Good Luck

You probably blew it. It sounds like the power supply put out more voltage then needed. Also they come in AC/DC, putting AC into a DC input usually blows things, dC into an AC normally does not hurt it assuming the voltages are in range in all cases.

Check wiring on indoor unit and joint them up to out door the same normal number coded so 1 inside goes to one outside ect ect

Does the lights blink red? If so, you have the infamous YLOD, aka. Yellow Light of

Death. This is the number 1 cause of pS3's dying. It is an overheating issue

linked to your CPU and GPU (the processor chips) You will need to find a local PS3

repair shop who can repair this. Do not try to attempt repairs seen on the internet yourself. You could make things much worse and render the unit totally unresponsive.

The repair process takes about 3 hours.

IS THERE A DISC STUCK INSIDE?

If you have a unit that is not backwards compatible, any non 60g or 80g then you

can retrieve your disc.

Power off the unit using the toggle switch on the back. Hold down the 'eject'

button and turn the toggle switch back from off to on. This will run a fan test

and eject your disc. Remember, this will only work on the 20, 40g models. Not the

backwards compatible units with the 4 usb port holes and the memory card slots.

Hello,50PSI is too low for a 410a system.Is it possible you let out too much freon?The precharge is for about 30 feet line set.Are both systems doing the same thing?A little overcharge is not the end of the world.Try adding some gas back.Rember to add liquid only!!

The taillight staying on would cause the battery to drain dead. lol.
I cant do the wiring diagram but if it was me I wouldnt need one.
Just examine the hack job very carefully. Wires are all color coded. See if you can match any of them that are cut with others that are cut there as well. If you suspect that they didnt go to the radio try jumpering them together.

Look for two water lines about 1 in in diameter running back toward the condensor unit in the firewall. On one of those lines will be a control. It is sometimes vacum controlled. When they are vacum conrolled they have a tendency to get stuck or you may have lost vacum to the unit. You can use a vacum tester and short piece of hose to test this to see if you have lost vacum or if it is stuck closed. Connect the test hose to the control on teh hose and apply vacum to the unit. If the valve opens you will get heat in the vehicle. If it does not open then it is stuck in the closed position and will need to be replaced in most cases.

You may need to assign an intercom ID for that unit by pushing one of the intercom buttons at the top.

your unit sounds like it is short cycling on low pressure. find the cylindrical thing on the larger line in the unit.it will have two low voltage wires coming out of it. trace those two wires back to where they go and turn off the unit so you can install a jumper across them. turn on the unit and see if it keeps short cycling or if it is running more normal. if it runs more normal then you are most likely low on freon or a slight chance of an airflow restriction