Question about Mitsubishi Televison & Video

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We have a Mitsubishi WD-60737 that occasionally turns itself off with a blinking red light (sometimes solid red).

The error code is 17. Sometimes it takes several tries to restart the TV, as it may struggle to start then turn off again with blinking red light. Sometimes when trying to start, there is a pulsating glowing of the black screen, which sometimes results in starting OK, sometimes not. There are periods of months where it turns off only once a day, and periods where it hardly stays on at all. Typically, it will turn off a half hour after first starting, then several more times in the next half hour, then it may stay on for hours and hours. It seems it may work better after we return from a vacation of a few weeks. We had an impression it is worse in the winter months, but not sure. We have replaced the main PWD power board and it did not help.

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  • simonbaker4 Jan 31, 2015

    Thanks for all the suggestions and additional comments from other owners. This is what I have found so far: In reviewing the meaning of code 17, I the manual indicates:



    Description: Communication loss, TV Micro - Engine (3.3V-ENG-SDA & SCL)



    Likely causes: Loss of 12V from PWB-POWER to Engine

    (Loose PE or PE2 connector).

    Engine Failure



    Since it doesn't cost anything, I located the PE2 connector and, although seemingly solid, I plugged it in and out repeatedly to try to clean any corrosion or gaps might have arisen over time. It makes sense marginal connections might be temperature sensitive.



    It didn't fix the problem, so I tried the same thing with the thick black DVI cable, which I assumed carries the "data" (picture and sound) from the main board to the light engine. I repeatedly plugged in and out the connector at both ends of the DVI cable, hoping to make better contacts. I also reseated some of the small cables going to the engine board from the lamp assembly/ballast area.



    (by the way, I had played extensively with the thermal sensor cable many times in the past with no affect).



    Since reseating the DVI cable, we have not seen the problem even once! It has been several days now. Before, we could hardly get the set to stay on for a few minutes.



    *** So maybe improving the DVI (or other cable) connections was the solution.



    I can't state yet that the problem is fixed for sure, but early evidence is that reseating the cables made a world of difference.



    In the meantime, I had ordered a whole new light engine module from tristatemodule.com (about $300). Because of the cost of shipping and restocking fee, it would cost me about $100 to return it. I wish there had been more advice on the internet about reseating these cables. Perhaps my problem is unique and rare. I also wish there was more encouragement on pulling out the main modules from the WD-60737 -- I was too timid to get in there and haul the modules out, but it is really quite easy. I worried the slightest juggling might throw the picture out of focus or alignment some way. But apparently, it is quite robust in that regard.



    We still are using the original lamp (we don't use max brightness settings), the picture looks great, better color/gamma than a Samsung LCD set we were trying out, in my opinion. Somehow the Mitsubishi colors look real and the LCD sets often look too unnatural or too waxy no matter what settings tried.



    I really like the picture on these Mitsubishi DLP sets (I appreciate good cinematography). The downside may be cost of ownership, as bulbs must be replaced and heat may increase maintenance, and also electric bill probably higher than with LCD/LED sets. Also they stink for hooking up a computer because of overscan!!! They don't display the full 1080 x 1920 image, cutting off the margins! Mitsubishi should be sued for that -- there was a big lawsuit years ago for tube computer monitors/TVs advertising tube size rather than viewable size -- how does Mitsubishi get away with it?

  • simonbaker4 Jan 31, 2015

    I'd like to edit my previous comment to put in line-spacing which got lost when posted. Actually, I want to post the comment as an answer so others can see it more easily. But this website doesn't let me do it it seems. -SB

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(I'm the original poster, adding my comment again here for visibility)

Thanks for all the suggestions and additional comments from other owners. This is what I have found so far:

In reviewing the meaning of code 17, I the manual indicates:

Description: Communication loss, TV Micro - Engine (3.3V-ENG-SDA & SCL)

Likely causes: Loss of 12V from PWB-POWER to Engine (Loose PE or PE2 connector). Engine Failure.

Since it doesn't cost anything, I located the PE2 connector and, although seemingly solid, I plugged it in and out repeatedly to try to clean any corrosion or gaps might have arisen over time. It makes sense marginal connections might be temperature sensitive.

It didn't fix the problem, so I tried the same thing with the thick black DVI cable, which I assumed carries the "data" (picture and sound) from the main board to the light engine. I repeatedly plugged in and out the connector at both ends of the DVI cable, hoping to make better contacts. I also reseated some of the small cables going to the engine board from the lamp assembly/ballast area. (by the way, I had played extensively with the thermal sensor cable many times in the past with no affect).

Since reseating the DVI cable, we have not seen the problem even once! It has been several days now. Before, we could hardly get the set to stay on for a few minutes.

*** So maybe improving the DVI (or other cable) connections was the solution.

I can't state yet that the problem is fixed for sure, but early evidence is that reseating the cables made a world of difference.

In the meantime, I had ordered a whole new light engine module from tristatemodule.com (about $300). Because of the cost of shipping and restocking fee, it would cost me about $100 to return it. I wish there had been more advice on the internet about reseating these cables. Perhaps my problem is unique and rare. I also wish there was more encouragement on pulling out the main modules from the WD-60737 -- I was too timid to get in there and haul the modules out, but it is really quite easy. I worried the slightest juggling might throw the picture out of focus or alignment some way. But apparently, it is quite robust in that regard.

We still are using the original lamp (we don't use max brightness settings), the picture looks great, better color/gamma than a Samsung LCD set we were trying out, in my opinion. Somehow the Mitsubishi colors look real and the LCD sets often look too unnatural or too waxy no matter what settings tried.

I really like the picture on these Mitsubishi DLP sets (I appreciate good cinematography). The downside may be cost of ownership, as bulbs must be replaced and heat may increase maintenance, and also electric bill probably higher than with LCD/LED sets.

Also they stink for hooking up a computer because of overscan!!! They don't display the full 1080 x 1920 image, cutting off the margins! Mitsubishi should be sued for that -- there was a big lawsuit years ago for tube computer monitors/TVs advertising tube size rather than viewable size -- how does Mitsubishi get away with it?

Anyway, hope this might help some other owners.

-S

Posted on Jan 31, 2015

  • simonbaker4 Jan 31, 2015

    To clarify: Sam Adams/simonbaker are both me, just needed to accounts to be able to post an answer to my own question.

  • simonbaker4 Jan 31, 2015

    I meant "two" accounts.

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Hello, have you changed the lamp? and if you did, did you use an original Mitsubishi lamp?......tks

Posted on Jan 31, 2015

Testimonial: "I mistakenly voted helpful, but meant not helpful, for this suggestion:I Can Assure You That This Problem Is Associated With 2 Capicators On The Power Supply Board. The origin question stated that a new power supply board had already been put in with no improvement."

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5 Suggested Answers

Anonymous

SOURCE: TV shuts off automatically

I Can Assure You That This Problem Is Associated With 2 Capicators On The Power Supply Board.
 

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SOURCE: Mitsubishi TV #WS 5531 hd 1080 upgradable - Screen

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SOURCE: problems turning my tv on, need to try several times

I just recently had the same problem and finally my set would no longer turn on. I replaced the projector lamp and now my set works. However, when it first comes on, it only stays on for about 2 minutes and then goes off. After another minute, it comes back on and works fine from then on. I don't believe this double power up can be any good for the lamp, but I don't know if the problem is the lamp or the set. These lamps run on about 65 volts, but require a short blast from 5000 volt source to fire up. At $200.00 a lamp, I don't want to go buy another!

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SOURCE: Mitsubishi WD-Y57. tv tries to start green light - no picture

have you checked the lamp?

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SOURCE: LG 52SX4D turns off randomly.

My Lg 52"tv turn off and on

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