Is the alan screw that holds the pully for drum on zanussi iz 12 right hand or left hand tread?

Belt has jammed or drum has slipped out off drum guides

Switch off.

Press and hold the two buttons again and switch on.

The appliance will beep or flash, let go of the buttons, the leds will scroll.

Press and release the temperature button until the bottom led of the 2nd column is lit.

Let me have the error code.

Switch off, on and off again

first you nead to unplug the dryer.next you nead to remove the lint filter and remove the two screws that are under it.now grab the top on both sides and pull it forward and up.roll top back and let it lay on back wall.look between the drum and the frount panal and remove the two 5/16 screws one on both sides.next pull the frount panal forward 6"and pull up on the frount panal.rotate the frount panal and let it rest on the side of the dryer.you do not nead to remove the wires from the door switch.next look under dryer drum and you should see the old belt.remove the belt.next place the new belt over top of drum,next with your left hand grab the frount top of the drum and lift it about 2"and with your right hand grab the drum belt and feed it under the drum.2/3 the way back.next lay down in frount of dryer and look under the drum.you will see that the idler assembly neads to be reinastaled in the slot in frount of motor.with your right hand hold the idler assembly and with your left hand you nead to feed the drum belt thrugh the idler assembly and over the moter pully.next you nead to replace the frount panal to the two clips one on each side at the bottom.next with your left hand push back on the drum and with your right hand push the frount panal forward and set the drum with the frount panal and replace the two 5/16 screws.next lower the top panal and replace the two screws and the lint filter.plug the dryer in and test unit out.

It should be a normal right hand thread, unscrew anti-clockwise.
If you are having difficulty unscrewing it, then try applying some heat to the bolt head, and spray with WD40.
Hope this helps.

On the right front and left front of the panel there are 2 phillips head screws. They are about 4 inches up from the floor. Remove these 2 screws,lift the door panel out then down to dislodge the top clips. Remove the door switch wires and set the door aside. Remove 4 screws from the front drum support. @ on the right,2 on the left. Remove the drum support.Install the belt around the drum. The smooth side of the belt goes against the drum. Re-attach all the parts in front. Remove the belt access panel on the rear of the dryer on the bottom right side facing the dryer to arrange the belt around the motor pulley and tension roller.

This is how 2.8TD.Remove the belts (fan and power steering)with a 10mm socket un-screw the plastic cover. To remove the bottom pully their is 3 small screws inside the pully (10mm or 12mm) unscrew them and take off the pully. Do not try to remove the big nut. Remove the plastic cover. Their is a small hole in all the drive wheel's their is a treaded hole in the engine block behind each one and a mark on the crank shaft. Turn the engine until the mark on the crankshaft is at the top then push the bolts ( metric course tread 12 or 13 mm head 4 to 5 ins long) through the holes in the drive wheel's and try to screw them in if they dont line up first time turn the crankshaft 1 turn and try again. When they all line up screw in the bolds this keeps the timing in place. Release the tention pully (the one with no tracks on and pushing against the back of the belt) remove the old belt replace. To tighten the tention pully put a small socket bar in the square hole turn until the belt is tight hold the preasure on the socket bar ant tighten the locking screw. Remove the screws job done.

first unplug unit..remove front panel 2 screws..under the bottom side of timer console there is 2 pin or scews on each side pull down firmly,or if screws untighen slowly...just let console hang..now you can see the 2 screws holding bottom of front panel door.remove theses 2 screws..now step up on stool remove the 3 screws across the front top of unit,,theses screws are facing the ceiling..now remove door switch connection.remove front ,,you about there if belt has pop remove,if you have to replace a damaged belt..take your right hand and go though machine unit you fell the idler wheel on right side back pull down and take belt of idler wheel and motor pully at the same time ,,if you cant get ittake you left hand and help from the left side..to put back just reverse,,always unplug..

This is specifically for a Maytag Legacy SAV515DAWW, but may apply to the whole Legacy line.
There is only one drive belt on this washer and it is not accessible directly from the bottom as a pan forms the bottom of the case. All work can be performed through the bottom front panel, once it is removed.

Before one starts, an overview is helpful. The motor for the washer is bounted just behind the access panel. Attached to the shaft at the motor bottom is the drive pully for the drum belt, along with the belt tensioning pully and spring. Below that is the pump assembly attached by three screws in the shafts, which are accessible only from the bottom. What you must do, is remove the pump by unfastening four hex-head bolts, then rotate the motor and pump assembly bottom upwards to the front, so the bottom of the shafts containing the torx head screws fastening the pump are accessible.
While everything is all together it is helpful to notice that the far support for the pump is in almost a direct line with the motor shaft and the tum pully shaft. When you reassemble the components, this vertical pump support must go between the belt. As you face the washer, the tensioning pully will ride on the outside of the right side of the belt.

1. Unplug the washer.
2. Pull it out from the wall, so it may be tilted back at about a 45 degree angle and will not fall foreward.
3 Remove the two hex head screws on the right and left bottom front of the washer. The panel should lift out from the bottom, Two pins hold the top of the panel in.
4. Examine the mechanism as described above.
5. Detach (Unhook) the tensioning pulley spring from the front of the bracket above the pump..
It is not necessary to remove any of the hoses. There is adequate flexibility and slack for replacing the belt.
6. Remove the four hex bolts attaching the galvanized motor bracket to the frame.
7. Rotate the motor back, so the pump bottom faces the front.
8. Remove the three torx head screws in the pump support arms.
9. Detach the pump from the motor. Gently pry it off or gently strike the body of the pump away from the motor with a soft faced mallet.
10. Place the new belt on the motor pully and reinstall the pump, so the leg closes to the tub pulley is inside the two sides of the belt. Reinstall the pump screws in the plastic shafts.
11. Reinstall the motor and fasten the bolts.
12. Make sure the tensioning pulley is to your right of the belt and then side your hands to the rear and slip the belt under the drum pulley and completely around it.
13 Feed the belt onto the drum pulley. I did this by reaching back with my left hand and feeding the belt, coming from the motor pulley, into the drum pulley, then slowly rotating the right side of the drum to me with my right hand.
14 Check to ensure the tensioning pulley is to the right of the belts, then reattach the spring, so the pulley forces the righthand belt to the left.
15. Set the washer upright, open the lid and rotate the drum around twice using your hands. This will help seat the belt on the pulleys and ensure the drum is not stuck.
16. Make sure the cycle switch is pulled out (set to off) and plug the power in.
17. Set on a wash cycle and looking in the bottom , check for proper operation. If the motor appears to be stalling, immediately turn the unit off. Rotate to tub some more by hand and test for operation. If it still doesn't work, see help, your problem is more than just a belt!
18. If everything seems to work, toss in a test load of laundry and pat yourself on the back for being able to save some money!

I've just spent an hour taking mine to bits. On the back there are 2 x 9mm silver nuts at the bottom, below the star head screws you removed to get the top off. Then there are two more sneaky ones at the bottom of each side panel, just next to the gap about half way along on both sides., with a plastic cover hiding them from view. Make sure you release the mains cable holder from the top of the back by pressing the plastic clips down, then the whole shebang should slide off easily.

Regards. Paul C

To complete this repair correctly and to prevent problem re occuring within months you must change the inner drum spider at the same time as the bearing kit, otherwise you are wasting your time, to complete the repair if you have not done one before will take you aprox 1 to 3 hours depending on space available and practicle ability, here goes, remove lid and outer case from machine to do this remove bolts on lower back and two side bolts (under small white covers) remove bolts along top edges both sides on top of macnine, remove cabinet, remove motor, remove hoses, remove heater and thermostat wires, noting location for refitting, remove suspension leg pins and lift outer drum assembly complete fron lower frame, split two halves of outer drum by removing bolts around centre seem, split drum in two, remove drum pully, refit pully bolt and drift inner drum out having put nut back on drum spider thread to avoid flaring shaft, using hammer knock shaft through bearings, then using a chisel or similer object knock out bearings and seal, reverse process refitting new bearins and spider, make sure to replace centre outer drum seal, as these are prone tro leaking I suggest you also seal with a layer of clear silicon, and problems contact me again, not really a job for a novice. Good Luck you will need it. Regards Advisor