Kenmore series 70 serieal # 92573210 stopped in the middle of a rinse cycle and didnt drain it wont spin either

James Greene

• 240 Answers
• Posted on Feb 03, 2008

SOURCE: Kenmore Series 70 won't spin

Sounds like you have got a basket drive and sub-pack issue. These are very hard to change out because it requires you to remove the inner basket, motor, transmission, agitator, pump, etc. The part number for these are:

Clutch Kit (Sub-Pack): 285785
Basket Drive/Spin Tube: 285792

If you think your up to the task, let me know and will send you some general info on getting the stuff in and out. Good Luck!!!!

SOURCE: kenmore 70 series

First thing is to remove the 2 screws from the console, they may be hidden in the front or bacl of console. After removing screws, lightly push the base of the console towards the front of the washer and pick up. This will expose your lid switch connection. Using a jumper wire, jump out the black and white wires then try advancing your washer into spin/drain. The culprit will usually be the lid switch assy.

SOURCE: kenmore 70 series

Okay...I'm a little confused on your symptoms. You initially said it fills, but doesn't agitate or spin, but drains.

Then, you finished with the washer filling, no agitate or spin, but now doesn't drain.

Which one is it?

The symptoms you describe are usually associated with the following:

1. Fills, may or may not agitate, won't spin or drain - lid switch.
2. Fills, may or may not agitate, won't spin, but still drains - motor coupling.
3. Fills, may or may not agitate, won't spin or spins slow - gear case.
4. Fills, agitates, spins, but does not drain – water pump.

NOTE: These are the more common failure items with these symptoms.

Double check the lid switch by opening and closing the lid. You should hear a clicking noise to indicate the switch is working. The switch is located under the top panel along the wash tub rim on the right-hand side. If not, check to make sure the lid strike (small plastic piece on the lid itself) is in place. This activates the lid switch when the lid is closed. Also, check the mounting screws along the rim (there are two of them) to see if they are tight.

If the motor coupling were bad, the washer would still drain, but there would be a rattling sound as the washer tries to spin or agitate.

If you need replacement parts, go to searspartsdirect.com and type in your model number in the "Search by Model Number" window. The lid switch can be found under the "Top and Cabinet" heading as item number 11 (part #3949238). Instructions on how to replace are located at the following link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385199-replacing_lid_switch_whirlpool_top

If you wish to replace the motor coupling, the part can be found under the “Brake/Clutch/Gearcase/Motor/Pump” heading as item number 13 (part #285753A). If you need instructions on how to replace, just follow this link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385250-replacing_motor_coupling_kenmore_top

Now, there’s a couple of ways to drain the washer. If it’s a simple lid switch problem, you don’t need to drain the washer to replace the switch. With a broken switch repaired, the washer will run and drain by itself. However, if you wish to drain the tub you can use a shop vac to pull a vacuum on the drain hose. This may take a few times depending on the size of the shop vac. These wash tubs typically have about a 35 gallon capacity. If you do not own a shop vac, you can by-pass the lid switch by jumpering the two BLACK wires at the lid switch connector that is connected to the console. CAUTION: Make sure you UNPLUG the washer before jumpering, then plug back in.

I hope this information is helpful to you. If I’m wrong about the symptoms, please post back and update me on what the washer is or is not doing, so I can assist you further.

SOURCE: Kenmore 110 Series 90 stops at the rinse cycle full of water

The symptoms you describe are often caused by a lid switch malfunction. It may be loose or not making good contact. hence, the reason why you can get it to work sometimes by lifting and closing the lid. As you open and close the lid, you should hear a "clicking" sound as the lid switch is activated. If you do not hear the switch, check to make sure the lid strike in still intact. This is a small plastic piece mounted on the lid that pushes down on the switch through a slot on the wash tub opening on the right hand side. If this piece breaks off, it will give the same symptoms of a broken lid switch. Next, check the two mounting screws on the right side of the wash tub opening to make sure they are tight. These are the mounting screws for the lid switch. Sometimes they come loose and the switch does not make proper contact. If you attempt all these preliminaries, and the switch still does not seem to be working properly, replace it. A replacement can be found at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your model number and the part will be located under the "Top and Cabinet" heading. For instructions on how to replace a lid switch, click on the following link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

This is a simple and inexpensive repair if you wish to accomplish this on your own. A replacement switch usually cost between $25 and $35. I hope this helps you. Let me know if you require further assistance.

NOTE: For future reference, it is strongly recommended that you do not slam the washer lid or place heavy objects on the lid. This can cause damage to the lid switch.

SOURCE: Kenmore 70 series washer will not drain

sounds like the timer to me