Bottom level of wine cooler frosted up. Trying to defrost. What is the problem?

Usually if you see frost or ice it is because the Freon level is low. There is a 5 year warranty on the compressor and sealed cooling system so if your within that period, I would call the manufacturer.

Try defrosting entire unit. Put all food, freezer and refrigerator sides in coolers with ice. Unplug unit and wait at least 24 hours for unit to completely defrost, if neccessary open doors, plug unit back in and see how unit functions. By doing this lines that carry freon should become unclogged.

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Some dual temperature wine coolers build up frost in the rear and top of the main compartment. Check the defrost timer, located either inside the main compartment near the light, or outside on the back of the wine cooler near the compressor. Look in the owner's manual for the correct settings for the defrost timer and adjust yours as needed. Make sure that you have the wine cooler in a spot where the outside temperature remains at or near room temperature to reduce frost buildup.

check the door seal, make sure that its not ripped or dirty. Its possible that moisture is entering the wine cooler thru the door gasket. Frost is normally the result of warm moisture mixing with cold air. The door gasket should be the problem. if you thoroughly examine and its fine, let me know and we'll go to the next step.

Correct thing to have defrosted it. Put trays back and re switch on. Should be ok.

as this is not self defrosting you have to do it yourself..........warm air causes frost buildup!

might be possible, depending where exactly the puncture is, but if it was repaired it would need
regassing to the correct level, you would need a professional refrigeration engineer,

YES! Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

• The defrost timer
  
  
• The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)
  
  
• The defrost heater
  
  

If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush

Possible bad defrost timer. Locate timer underneath the fridge and manually turn the knob. Element should come on and start defrosting. If defrosting starts then the timer is bad. Check also the element and thermostat.

Check the door seals to make sure they are sealing good this can cause high humidity. The unit also seems to be getting to cold check with another thermometer