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Michele Posted on Dec 30, 2014
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I have the Husqvarna Viking designer ruby. It is making huge loops on the underneath side of the fabric. This is during straight stitch on cotton and then on duck cloth. I have cleaned underneath t

I have the Husqvarna Viking designer ruby. It is making huge loops on the underneath side of the fabric. This is during straight stitch on cotton and then on duck cloth. I have cleaned underneath the plate and the bobbin area. I have retheaded the machine, used different brand and type of thread. I have rewound the bobbin, used different weights of bobbin thread. Nothing has helped. Can you please help?

1 Answer

chris_divech

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  • Expert 72 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 02, 2015
chris_divech
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Joined: Dec 31, 2009
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Typically, when there are loops on the bottom of the fabric, there is something missed in the upper threading. Make sure when threading:
- the presser foot is in the up position to open the tension disks
- make sure the thread is well "seated" in the tension disks before continuing to the take up bar.
- using the manual follow the thread path carefully
- check to make sure the thread flows smoothly from the spool
- use the correct size spool caps to help the thread flow easily

5 Related Answers

radcal

  • 196 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 14, 2007

SOURCE: Satin Stitch Problems - Designer SE (similar to the Designer 1)

You should take your machine to a Husqvarna authorized repairman. Suggest checking the grounding of the tension unit stepper motor. Earliest models weren't properly grounded and tension could vary. An authorized repairman should know where to go from there. I don't know of anything that you should attempt on your own.

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Anonymous

  • 323 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 27, 2008

SOURCE: Loose stitching underneath. HOW CAN I FIX!!!!

Sounds as though you may have a burr or rough spot on the hook where the bobbin inserts. Run your finger along the edge of the hook to see if there are any rough spots.I'm sure you're going to find at least one from the time you broke the needle.Once you locate it, remove it with an emery stick or small sharpening stone. Polish it so that it is smooth. Should work okay.
sewman7

SewTechWayne

SewTechWayne

  • 186 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 31, 2009

SOURCE: 5932 knotting every other inch

Try oiling the hook if you haven't recently.
Check you needle plate and hook for damage, they may need to be buffed or sanded smooth.
Check your upper tension discs for lint and double check your upper thread path (proper threading).
There are other things like hook timing, needle clearance or broken check spring that may be wrong but you need a technician for those things.
best of luck!

sew dutch

Ellen Den Dulk

  • 25 Answers
  • Posted on May 25, 2009

SOURCE: Juki HZL-E61: cannot get tension right on straight stitch

Loops on the bottom of the fabric direct the problem to the top thread. Rethread again and make sure the thread goes through the tension discs. Lift the foot, because this is what opens the discs. When sewing and the foot is down, the discs should be closed and thus giving the upper thread the tension it needs.

bargainbox

Hassy

  • 1388 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 02, 2009

SOURCE: Huge loops on back of fabric!

Please TRY the solution BEFORE giving your considered rating.
Specific detail on bobbin case adjustment (with picture) near halfway down reply, the remainder will help you achieve a balance of top and bottom tensions.

Ensure that all is clean and free of lint and jams, this is the most likely cause....now for tension troubleshooting .......

This solution is for tension problems...if you cannot form any sort of stitch, the issue is quite different, so please let me know if you need a different problem solved.....

It is quite long, but just work through each section in order.

The "knotting up" can reveal a lot. If you have loose threads on one side or the other, the tension on the opposite side will be the culprit.

QUICK SUMMARY FIRST:
Ensure sharp new needle,
Thread guides and Bobbin are Clean & Clear of lint
Set Top Tesion to 4 ....then....
Balance Bobbin to suit.

TOP THREAD TENSION:
If the looping threads are on the underside as you sew, it is the top tension. Top tension ought to be between 4 & 6 (this variation to allow for the different weights of fabric in your projects).

IS YOUR NEEDLE SHARP ?
If you are using a needle that has seen quite a deal of work, or you suspect it may be blunt, change it for a new one !

TOP TENSION & GUIDES:
Make sure that when you thread the machine the presser foot is up so the thread goes between the discs and not to one side, top tension between 4 and 6, and that you have threaded through all the guides, including the last one, usually on the needle arm, just above the needle clamp.

It may be there is lint trapped between the discs, this will keep them slightly apart and reduce the actual tension, sometimes dramatically.

If tensions appear correct, and the thread is definitely in the channel between the discs, but still too loose and looping, try raising presser foot and remove your thread.

Now, with a 2" (50mm) wide strip piece of fabric 8 - 10" (20 - 25cm) moistened with methylated or denatured spirit, gently insert the fabric strip and clean between the discs with a see saw / to and fro action.

In the worst cases, gentle use of a needle to pick & remove the jam may be necessary, but be very gentle and make sure the tension is set at Zero and the presser foot is raised, (to disengage tension plates).... do not gouge or score the plates, they need a polished surface to work correctly.

BOBBIN TENSION:
Far less common, but if the loose threads are on the top, it is bobbin tension that is loose, it too may have lint in the spring and be giving a "false" tension.

I would not recommend fiddling with bobbin tension without good reason, it may end up with missing small screws and spring pieces, however, you can take the needle plate off to clean
the hook race area (where bobbin case sits)

...this is just good housekeeping, my wife does this every time she replaces the bobbin....

just take it out and clean the bobbin case and the fixed metal hook race with a small brush to remove lint. If there is a significant amount of lint, use a vacuum and small brush to get the worst.

Then wipe all this area with a cloth or cotton bud (Q tip) moistened (not soaked) with methylated spirit, especially if there appears to be fine dirty deposits....oil and lint combine to conspire against you.

If it seems likely that you ......really ....do .....actually .....need .....to adjust the bobbin case, first check there is no lint trapped in the metal spring where the thread is tensioned.

TOP LOADER:
Drop-in Bobbin case will look similar to this image with the tension screw in the middle of the metalwork....

4c76dc1.jpg ...the other screw at one end is holding it all together, so beware....it is not a tragedy to undo the whole lot and clean it, but very gingerly and lay the bits out in sequence and orientation, or you risk tearing your hair out !

FRONT LOADER:
....this is a bobbin case from a front loading machine and works in a very similar fashion to the top loader with drop in bobbin, again, if you dismantle it, take care so you can put it all
back properly.
165ca5c.jpg FINISHING UP
GETTING THE BALANCE RIGHT:
When you are certain there's no trapped lint in top tension or bobbin, set the top tension to 4 and the bobbin tension to a point where you just begin to feel resistance.

Try using good quality thread of contrasting colours so you can more easily spot the changes.

Set your zigzag to one width less than maximum (eg. 5 of 6 ...or... 4 of 5 etc) and sew a sample for a few inches and check the result.... adjust the bobbin tension screw very little at
a time, perhaps 1/16 of a turn.

You may find you are playing with this balance for some little while and if you are putting the needleplate on and off each time begin to think it cannot be correct to do this.....BUT....it is,
and eventually, you do get a "feel" for the correct tension and then it happens quite quickly.....as a user you won't be doing it very often unless there is lint built up (or are there small hands at work around the house !?!?!)

OTHER ISSUES:
If you live near the ocean as we do, salt air can play havoc with metalwork inside and out, so to help minimise this, keep a few small packets of dessicant (silica gel) in your machine
case....no case ? then make some sort of cover !

Same applies in any damp or humid environment, keep your machine dry and dust free.

Budget for a proper full service every couple of years (more often if heavily used) and if you don't use your machine for a few years, be aware that old oil will dry out and combining with
dust and form a "clag" like glue (another reason for some sort of cover, even a teatowel !)

FINALLY, A WORD ON THREAD:
If it is worth spending the time, energy and money on making something that you would like to give lasting enjoyment......use quality thread, .......it may seem to cost a little more at the
time, but the results, ease of use and added longevity will be worth the extra, and as a bonus, your tension troubles may be fewer and further between, because there is a more consistent diameter with good thread, and less compensating to be done by your tension plates and less thread breaks !

bargainbox.com.au

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Which software extensions can be used with a Husqvarna Ruby embroidery sewing machine?

The Husqvarna Designer Ruby can read a number of embroidery file formats: .SHV, .DHV, .HUS, .VIP, .VP3, .PEC, .PCS, .SEW, .JEF, .EXP, .10*, and .DST. One other embroidery file format is accepted. See the manual. It can read the .SH7 stitch format files and .VF3 embroidery font files. It can also read .HTM/ .HTML and .TXT files. With the complimentary 5D software (or a similar package), you can convert most other embroidery files to one that is compatible with the Designer Ruby.

The documentation for many Husqvarna Viking sewing machines is available here: http://www.husqvarnaviking.com/Support . The manual and other useful information for the Designer Ruby is here: http://www.husqvarnaviking.com/support/DESIGNER-RUBY . The current link to the manual is http://www.husqvarnaviking.com/SiteMedia/Products/Machines/Support/Designer_Ruby_manual_ENG_A.pdf?ext=.pdf . The file extensions are listed on page 9:2 (page 100 of the PDF).

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells
(I will admit to mostly using the .HUS files with the Designer Ruby.)
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I am not able to sew a cotton knit fabric on my Jade 20 Husqvarna Viking sewing machine without the fabric not feeding properly and getting sucked down into the faceplate, stretched and torn.

Very possible the needle is old, damaged, or the incorrect type for the fabric. Sometimes a straight-stitch needle plate can be used on a machine that will prevent the fabric from going down through the hole. But try a new needle first. Make sure you are using the correct type of needle for the fabric you are sewing--sharp for woven fabric, ball point for knit.
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How do I turn off thread portioning on Husqvarna Ruby De Luxe. I don't want to adjust the settings but need to turn this off. Thank you

FWIW, I was unable to find any information for turning off the thread portioning function. Unfortunately, this appears to be the thread tensioning system, so disabling the thread portioning would be disabling the thread tensioning--something that is critical to sewing. It appears this model may have some issues and perhaps this one is particular to your machine. It may be best to take it for service.

Perhaps this will help:

Husqvarna Viking Designer Ruby 25 Tension Thread Portioning Deluxe Stitch...

Husqvarna Viking Designer Ruby 22 Bobbin Thread Sensor

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..

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Does the husqvarna viking quilt designer 11 sew straight stitches without using a card?

It is possible but it will only sew a straight stitch (more than likely a 2.5MM stitch length which is a common/standard length for straight stitching.
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Make sure that the metal plate is locked into position- Hope that helps!
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I had the same dissatisfaction when I switched from the 1+ to the Designer 1. After some trials I am now happy. You need the springy free motion foot. Part #413 03 76-45. You take off the white shank and screw it on with the metal bar over the needle hook. In the set menu turn the SensorQ on, the free motion on, select stitch 1 from menu V and drop the feed dogs. It also makes a big difference to use the straight stitch throat plate which just has a small hole for the needle to go through. One other hint is that I often have to reduce my needle tension 3 or 4 steps. Hope it works for you.
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