Where I can purchase a bake element for a GE 1J502-1N1 oven? And where I can download an owner's manual for the same?
I have an old (circa 1951) GE wall-mount oven, model 1J502-1N1, with a broken bake element. I cannot find a replacement that will fit into the plug-in ceramic block.
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To find the correct replacement baking element for your GE Rapid Clean II J55BF-1 wall mount oven, you can try the following steps:
Locate the model and serial number of your oven. This information is usually found on a label on the inside of the oven door or on the back of the oven.
Visit the GE Appliances website or use an online appliance parts retailer to search for the part using your oven model number.
Look for the baking element part number in the oven's user manual or service manual. These manuals may be available online or from the manufacturer.
If you are still having trouble finding the correct part number, consider contacting the manufacturer's customer service department for assistance.
Once you have the correct part number, you can order the replacement baking element and follow the manufacturer's instructions for installation.
CKD WIRING FROM PANEL OK
CKD TERMINALS AT ELEMENT HAVE 120V ON EACH ELMT
FAN COMES ON
THE ON INDICATOR SHOWS WHEN TMP &START PUSHED
MICROWAVE WORKS FINE
I ORDERED A NEW BAKE ELEMENT TO TRY-NOT HERE YET
STUMPED
Hi Jeff. You should have a wiring diagram with the range. Check for an envelope on the back of the range, inside the back splash, or taped to the inside side wall of the range if you remove the lower drawer. That all being said, first check to see if the start or stop time knobs on the timer have been pushed in (and possibly turned). If the clock runs, it will clear this out within 12 hours, but on these old ranges often times the clock no longer runs. Make sure these knobs are turned until they have "popped" out or you won't get the necessary voltage where you need it. Secondly, when a bake element burns out, it can cause damage to the electrical contacts in the oven selector switch (part number WB22X5122 ) which can be tested with an ohm meter if you can find the electrical diagram. Also, the oven thermostat (part number WB21X5320 ) can be damaged in the same way. Unfortunately, these parts for these old units are not very cheap.
The little bit of heat you are getting in your oven now is most likely only from the 120 volts going to the broiler element when in Bake. During Bake, your bake element should get 240 volts (until thermostat is satisfied). Setting to Broil should give 240 to the broil element.
I was wrong (I think). the baking element probably was burnt out as the repairman said. He replaced it and I thought selfclean still wasn't working. In fact, I think I just had to give the self-clean function more time. Also, I was judging by smell. We have become used to a bad odor during self clean which was missing when it was broken and still missing after the repair. Bottom line, the oven was clean after the baking element was replaced, sans smell.
On these older ovens ther is usually always 120 volts on the elements at all times.
If you check across the element ends with it in bake you should read 240V. If not, there is a problem with the control. With the voltage drop you describe, it sounds like you are losing power on one line of voltage coming to the element.
Post back to let me know what you find out or if you have any questions.
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