Have checked that water is at outlet of cold water tap
I had the same issue. To do a quick fix, if you want to use cold water for the wash, just swap the hoses at the back of the washer (cold to hot and vice versa) and select hot water for the wash cycle (it will be cold water). Make sure you shut off the water at the wall prior to doing this, and then leave the hot off. You can order the valve here (www.genuineapplianceparts.com) , and you will find that it is a fairly easy swap, with basic mechanical skills. The valve is your most likely failure. I actually swapped the valves inside the machine for a few weeks and then only washed in cold water during this time. You will also find schematics when you remove the cover that will assist you in seeing the way your washer works. I have replaced many parts over the years on my GW11 using this site and that schematic sheet.
Good luck! 420238P Fisher Paykel Cold Water Valve GWL11 IWL12
Water Valve Test
When in Diagnostic Mode, the WASH TEMP UP button turns the hot water valve on. The Hot LED is on when the hot valve is on. The WASH TEMP DOWN button turns the cold water valve on. The Cold LED is on when the cold valve is on.
DIAGNOSTIC MODE
Turn the power on at the power point but off at the machine. Press and hold the WASH TEMP DOWN button and then the POWER button until the machine gives 2 short beeps and lights up. Release buttons when the beeps indicate diagnostic mode has been entered.
There maybe up to 3 filters cold water line. There is sometimes 1 at each end of the water hose itself and also in the valve which can be removed with pliers. (see picture)
Undo the 2 screws at the back of the buttons panel
Undo the connection of the valve
If you are good with a multimeter check that there is about 65 ohms resistance across the terminals of the valve. If not, then replace the valve.
Also sometimes the workings inside the valve can jam shut so replace the valve.
Based on personal experience it will be one of these probably in the order or most likely first -
1. faulty solenoid controlling water inlet - replace
2. blocked inlet filter just before the inlet solenoid - clean
3. cable come unattached (actually most likely last BUT easier to check) - reinsert
4. fault in logic board - usually replace with recon unit
5. other sensor has failed - find service manual and trace
SOURCE: Fisher&Paykel Smart Drive 601 Both Hot and Cold Water Fill very slowly
Hey there. I've had the same problem recently. It would fill slowly, and then after a while, it wouldn't fill at all. So I got some a new valve. it cost about $NZ30 delivered. You'll need one each for hot and cold. You can get parts from http://www.primedistributors.co.nz/. I think the part you need is 426142. you can check an image of it on the website. Good luck.
SOURCE: Slow fill on cold water/Fisher&Paykel GWL11
Assuming you have already done what you said you have done, now it is time to do some real troubleshooting.(Dont worry, if you have gone this far you'll be able to do what I'm going to tell you)
First take the lid off. To do this, open it, and lift up on one side, it should come right off. Now take the control panel cover off. There are two screws on the back side of the washer holding it on. You'll need to wiggle it a bit to get it off. Once the cover is off you should find a plastic bag with a "service" sheet in it. The service sheet explain how to put the machine into the "Test Mode". This is very easy to do and will allow you to check out all functions. One of the test, allows you to check the cold water inlet valve. Assuming your water pressure is good and you have indeed cleaned the screen filter going into the machine you will most likely find that the cold water valve is not opening all the way and will need to be replaced. If your handy with a phillips screwdriver you only have two more screws to take out and the valve assembly will come right out.
Don't think you can swap out the hot water valve with the cold water valve. Fisher Paykel, clever as they are made sure you can't do that. One is a proportional valve and the other is a digital valve. They both look identical but they are not!
If your going to do the repair yourself (you've come this far, why not see it through to conclusion), be sure when you call Fisher/Paykel to order the cold water inlet valve that you give them the serial number of your machine to be sure you get the correct part.
Good Luck!
SOURCE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Cold Water Not Flowing
you can swap the hot and cold valves over and see if this fixes the problem as it sound like your cold valve is faulty but not the hot valve.
Cheers
SOURCE: Fisher/Paykel GWL10US washer. Blinking hot and
When they say replace the valve There,s a very good chance the diaphram is the valve is purferated or split (common Problem).But you can Remove the coil from this & with pointy nose plyers you can unscrew the top & inspect the diaphram If it,s ok give us a bit more info Hope this helps.Cheers.
SOURCE: Same smart drive 601, water will stop geting in after a few secon
if you mess with any of the electrical, or electronic components- UNPLUG the washer!!
not being familiar with this model- i can say that sometimes a small article of clothing can get into the pump and effect the drainage. water in is usually controlled by solenoids- 1 for hot, 1 for cold. depending on your temp. setting. if you have 'hard' water at your home, and an old water heater, mineral 'chips' can build up in the filter at the hot water side of the valve, and possibly the cold water side. turn off the water supplies to both sides and remove the hoses and check for clogged filter screens.
if they're cruddy clean them.
You also may have a loose or corroded electrical connection to the ground side of your inlet valves. this usually involves removing the back panel of the machine.and examining the wiring to the water valves. UNPLUG the washer!! If you don't have a Ground Fault Interrupter (GFI) in your laundry room, then i advise you have one installed!
hope this helps!
Testimonial: "clear and frienndly"
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