Find a circuit diagram or schematic for my TomTom?
I need a high quality photograph of the circuit board around the USB power connector of a TomTom One V2. A schematic would be even better.
I need this because I have managed to blow a few of the tiny SMD resistors off and need to know where to put them back.
If you have one of these devices and could snap a photo, I'd be grateful!
Re: Find a circuit diagram or schematic for my TomTom?
Hi Aaron. Sorry for the delay in responding but I have thousands of photos and not a very good filing system!! Anyway, I have some good quality photos of the boards but, looking at them closely, the resistors DO NOT have values printed on them - unusual I know but they are blank in that area.
You need a schematic if you can get hold of one or, someone with one you could measure from - although this would be difficult.
I have attached some photos, cut down for the area so you can see what I mean
Sorry I could not help more.
Testimonial: "Brian, you sir are an absolute legend.
I really appreciate your help with this eight your old product!
I have lost five components from the board: R96, R97, C84 (I think - it's the one near the top right ground plane for the USB), C86 and C87. I have recovered four SMD components from my desk. All look identical with the exception of one capacitor (it's white). I will need to get a loupe and see if I can see any markings but I think they will be unmarked. I can try to test them with a DMM.
I am going to test the values and go on the assumption that the two resistors might be the same (for Data +/- lines perhaps) and that the caps might be power smoothing of some sort. So if I find two resistors amongst the components I have recovered, I am going to replace them and leave the caps and see what happens!
I might use Kapton tape in future too :).
If anyone has a schematic or any ideas where I could find the component values, I'd be grateful! Likewise if anyone has one of these sat navs they wouldn't mind me testing for values..."
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You may not be able to get a schematic. You need to be able to troubleshoot electronics without a schematic. Check where the AC cord connects to the circuit board. In general there should be a fuse and a transient suppressor. Next will be the transformer if there is one or rectifier diodes. These usually fail in a lightning strike. There is also the probability of other component failures, but you won'y know that until you repair these components.
If you have had the unfortunate accident of breaking off your USB connector(internal) on your tomtom satnav then I hope this will help. Firstly remove memory card.Then using "star" hand tool remove the back plate. relocate the usb component on the circuit board( you may to ask someone to hold it in place if you dont have an appropriate clamp. Heat the four corner pins and one at a time re-solder them to the board. You may find some damage to one or more of these but there is now problem as the are holding joints!!.....Then the harder job the small signal pins along the top of the component. fill the solder iron with a LITTLE solder and flux then gently run this along over the top of the pins and inspect afterwards...if more is needed then repeat process until all pins are connected, this should have repaired the problem. Thanks Jason!
if you look at the connector, there will be 1 white wire on the end.. if you match that up with the other end, the wires should go 1 2 3 4 5 all in a line. those connectors are surface mount and will rip off the board really easy, if the connector ripped off the board (likely) then I would go for a new circuit board
Cool I wanted to do the same thing with the board.I havent had time to try it, but here it goes. The schematic can be found here. The file is named Philips-GR9D.rar and is a pdf ~ 44mb for the whole schematic for the tv. Check around page 40 or so for the schematic. Its in another language though. Seems you should only need 12v (regulated) and a variable audio level seeing the amp looks at a fixed level. Connector 1401 (1-5)
Right Channel Input
Left channel input
Connector 1449 (1-5)
Right channel out
KEY (No pin)
Left channel out
Connector 1418 looks to be an extension of 1449 and from what i can tell the lower "divided" part of the board (eg the high voltage side from connector 1400 to the transformer) appear to be power for the audio circuit derived from around the fly back area of the tv. (around 160v i presume). In other words I think you only need connector 1401 and 1449. The only other thing seems to be that it cannot be bridged (for subwoofer use) as is (sharing a common ground on the output). Wish you well.
Hi, Never played with a navman but have done a tomtom with the same problem - If the USB connection soldered to the board then it possibly has torn up the tracks on the board. If you are lucky and it has simply broken free of the board then you could possibly resolder it back on.
The only way I could do the Tomtom was with a hot air rework station and solder paste as the tracks and components are microscopic and the components were packed tightly around the USB connector terminals. best refer to a service technican who has the necessary tools as you could very quickly end up with an expensive paperweight!
I finally managed to pull back the rear cover by inserting a thin piece of metal at the top of the rear cover. It snapped off by pulling it backwards and then downwards. And I soldered the connector back on. I only had to solder the 4 feet of the small metal shield, the contacts are just pressing on the circuit board.