Called a Bosch technician who changed the fan and motor in the freezer panel. The sound stopped for about a two weeks and then started up again. The noise sounds like someone has very bad diareaha and is very annoying .
SOURCE: Fridge freezer KIM 29473GB/01
Liners are not able to be replaced. Will need to buy a new unit if the liner is a problem.
SOURCE: bosch fridge leaking water
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I have the same problem,warranty just ran out but its been
leaking on and off for ages,must be this model.This much Ive figured out,what
happens is the drain hole gets blocked from ice freezing over the hole at the
back of freezer, the drain water has to go somewhere, since it cant leak out of
the drain hole where it suppose to it ends up pooling under the vege
compartment before ending up on the kitchen floor.Now if this is your only
problem,someone suggested to me to run a piece of copper wire from the
defrost heater to the drain hole so no ice can build up there,hence no more
leakage.To do this you'll have to take the back panel off and see for
yourself,I did this and Im a novice.Make sure you turn off and unplug the
fridge first and wait for it to defrost.
Now I think I have other things wrong with mine,after leakage problem the
refrigeration compartment wont cool anymore but the freezer part remains
working as usual.Ive nailed this down to one of the following not working...
Thermostat / timer / defrost heater.So one or more of these needs replacing.Im
just trying to look for a manual which shows the nuts and bolts or the
refrigerator (not the "How to use" type manual which I have).
SOURCE: Bosch Classixx fridge / freezer
Hi - experienced this myself and spent ages trying to get to the bottom of it - only found one post but it worked and was absolutely clear on the cause nb: i'm not an "expert" !
My understanding of how the Bosch f/f works is that the freezer compartment generates the cold air for the fridge which is regulared at the fridge end . At the back of my fridge there are two "vents" which feed up this cold air up from the freezer into the fridge.
Problem happened to me because I left the freezer door slightly ajar which generated a massive amount of frost (sucking in the moist air from the house I guess then freezing it) and subsequent ice froze up the cooling ducts between the freezer and the fridge. Therefore, no matter how much I turned up the fridge thermo it never got cool. Only solution was to dump my frozen at a mates house and defrost the the FREEZER for a good 24 hrs +.
Worked tho' - fridge was completely back to normal.
PS: I understand this issue may also happen if you put too much unfrozen food into the freezer at one go and in working overtime to get it frozen causing a massive frost up again.
SOURCE: How to use temperature settings on Bosch Classixx fridge freezer
You can find most user manauls at, www.managemyhome.com, on the right side of the page. You will need the model number off the product information label affixed to the unit.
SOURCE: Bosch Fridge Freezer: Fridge Not Cooling
Your refrigerator's cool is provided by your freezer section through a damper - there should not be excessive frost on the cooling coils - the most common problem is a defrost timer - are you absolutely sure the noise you hear is the defrost this is the first thing to check, defrost control and its components, is it properly shutting off or stuck on during operation - the next thing to check is for possible sealed system problems / small leaks, door gasket seals, etc.
The fact that it started to work once you manually defrosted is the key here - an over forsted evap will cause the problems you describe most commonly - so have your defrost system checked completly and properly - that should solve the problem. followed by checking door gaskets, damper and sealed system - if only part of the coils are frosted as opposed to the entire surface, that usually a clue to sealed system leak - yes 10C is quite warm for a refrigerator. It should be between 34F-40F, optimal is 34F. And freezer section no warmer than 10F, optimal at 0F (-18C)
Check the water valve on the back of the refrigerator if it has an ice maker. Make sure the valve is turned completely on and not constricting the flow of water to the refrigerator via the water supply line. You might also hear a simultaneous buzzing sound when the gurgling noise occurs. In some refrigerator models, this filling process is on a timer, and you might hear the buzzing and/or gurgling every 15 minutes or so.
Check the water supply line for leaks or damage. You might see a puddle of liquid on the floor. If air is pulled into the water line as the refrigerator is pulling in water, that can create a gurgling noise. Replace the damaged hose yourself, or contact an appliance repair technician for assistance
Wait while the refrigerator completes its defrosting cycle if you hear water dripping and gurgling in the freezer area. When the heating coil turns on, the melted water from the frost flows down to a drain pan for evaporation to take place. The defrost process usually takes about 30 minutes. This is automatic and cannot be prevented in most refrigerators. Keep the closed to try to prevent unnecessary frost buildup.
Wait while the water equalizes in the refrigerator if you hear a gurgling sound when shutting the door. This is normal and is a result of air being forced through the drain tube. The gurgling can last several seconds but should eventually dissipate this usually happens with old fridges upgrade its a good investment
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