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Question about Maytag MER6772 Gemini Electric Kitchen Range

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Lower element will not heat up? Upper element seems to be very slow to heat up. Oven has been on for 5 minutes at the temperature is only at 125 degree.

Posted by Mark Suddard on

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5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 16 Answers

SOURCE: Gemini MER6769BAW Range/Dual Ovens

depending on type of unit. most of the time they are very easy to change out.. look at element locate two screws. go shut off breaker to oven.. make sure its has no power. after removing screws element should come out fairly easy.. make sure not to let wires fall back inside unit. if so not to worry. just pull unit out from wall and remove back panel. push wire back through. hope this helps

Posted on May 15, 2008

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SOURCE: Maytag Stainless Steel & Black Electric Oven won't heat over 140 degrees

on a 220 volts stoves when the electrissity drops to 120 volts thats what it does.so oven element wires most be check for power, if it's getting 220 replace the element.

Posted on Dec 07, 2008

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Anonymous

  • 145 Answers

SOURCE: matag gas oven won't or is slow in comming up to temperature.

Hello and welcome to FixYA!
You are 100% correct in your suspicion that the oven ignitor is at fault. If you want to know "for certain" you can check that ignitor in circuit using an amprobe and looking for at least 2.9 amps, however I would say all you need do is replace that ignitor and your oven should return to proper operation. The gas smell is a result of an ignitor being on the "ragged edge" of being able to open the warp switch in the gas valve. Instead of opening up, it is "burping" the valve enough for you to smell gas. Your part number is a
12400035 and sells for around $50 or so, depending where you buy it.
Thanks for using the FixYA! service!


Posted on Dec 14, 2008

Anonymous

  • 21 Answers

SOURCE: mer5755qab oven takes an hour to heat to 200

Either your bake element is bad or there is a bad connection going to the element. This is a very high current connection so bad connections are always a possiblity. Also check and make sure your broil element is working as some ovens use it for pre-heat. Do both elements seem about the same temp? You can turn the oven on and carefully hold your hand a few inches from the element to see if they are getting equally hot. If your connections are good to the elements then one of the "calrod" elements is probably bad. You can also check the resistance of each element. Not sure of exact reading but a higher resistance means less current going to the element. Just compare reading on each one and go from there. Good luck!

Posted on Mar 13, 2009

Anonymous

  • 97 Answers

SOURCE: I have to adjust my oven temperature with an oven

Oven temp sensor failure, possible control board problem. Unit thinks its a different temp. sensor connects directly to control....suggest you to call maytag cust service....sometimes they will assist with parts

Posted on Jun 09, 2009

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Siemens oven not heating to high temperatures

possibly,but i would check both upper and lower elements are working first, lower element is hidden so test from the back with a multieter after removing oven fuse from the power box
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Got 5 minutes of hot water then cold. replaced both elements and thermos. still 5 minutes of hot water. power bill increased nearly 400% in 30 days. HELP!!! please.

When the top of the tank is hot the upper thermostat removes power from the upper heating element and transfers the power to the lower thermostat and heating element. If the lower thermostat is defective, then the lower portion of the tank will not be heated and the supply will be greatly reduced. You replaced both elements however check that the lower element is coming on after ther upper one cuts out and is acutally working.
Check for power at the upper thermostat terminals where the power is sent to the lower thermostat and heating element. If there is no power then the upper thermostat should be replaced. If there is power then check for power at the lower heating element. If there is no power at the lower heating element then replace the lower thermostat.
If there is power to the lower heating element then it should be getting hot. If it is not, maybe defective. Another possibility is a broken dip tube. Check for a broken dip tube and replace if necessary.

If the dip tube is broken, the incoming cold liquid can mix with the out going hot liquid and cause it to seem as though you are running out.
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Thermador Built in oven scd302 not heating upper oven, lower oven fine. Heating element not glowing red as the oven below it does.

Hi.

Problem is usually either temperature probe or heating element.

Grab a multimeter and set it on impedance (Ohms).
Remove first temperature probe and then heating element.
If either probe or element is reading open (ohms infinity), then replace the part.

If both probe and elements are not open, then the problem is either wiring or oven electronic control. The most common fault resulting in no heat is the temperature sensor located inside the oven cavity.

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Hi...I have a Whirlpool water heater and the water only stays hot for a few minutes. How do I adjust the temperature or settings so that I can have hot water all the way through the shower instead of...

I am guessing this is an ele water heater and the temp setting are not the problem.
Problem: Not enough hot water or water temperature too low. When the top of the tank is hot the upper thermostat removes power from the upper heating element and transfers the power to the lower thermostat and heating element. If the lower thermostat is defective, then the lower portion of the tank will not be heated and the supply will be greatly reduced.
Check for power at the upper thermostat terminals where the power is sent to the lower thermostat and heating element. If there is no power then the upper thermostat should be replaced. If there is power then check for power at the lower heating element. If there is no power at the lower heating element then replace the lower thermostat.
If there is power to the lower heating element then it should be getting hot. If it is not, replace it. Another possibility is a broken dip tube. Check for a broken dip tube and replace if necessary.

The dip tub is located under the fitting where the hot water comes out.
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It takes 28 minutes for the oven to reach temperature of 375 degrees. The ready buzzer goes off in about 15 minutes. The temperature is 300 degrees. Is there any adjustments to be made.

what is your oven if is gas or electric, if is gas easy to preheat by using lower heating element, if electric? that your unit have convection? or not? coz some probelm of the oven is, 1 if the oven is no convection or your oven is single heating in upper element,if your oven have a timer and cut off in 15minute? dont use timer,use a manual timer by it your self,if you want to reach the degrees that you want check your oven if der a lower and upper heating element with convection function,that the one is the most easy way to reach the degree that you want to reach.
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My HBL452 double oven is slow to heat both upper

Hi,
If your electric2_bing.gif oven is not heating then you probably have a bad heating element in your oven. This is not that hard to fix yourself...
Check out this tip that I wrote about the Oven not heating problem..

Oven Problems Electric2_bing.gif Oven is Heating Slowly or Poorly
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4511800-oven_problems_electric_oven_heating

heatman101
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How to start oven in PROPANE STOVE

Print the following infore for future ref if you wish. How it works is simple tage a look at it in Motion
Component Test Procedure Results
Electronic
range control
F1−1 –Upper Oven >650°F with door unlocked.............................
F1−2 –Lower Oven >650°F with door unlocked.............................
F1−3 –Upper Oven >950°F with door locked.................................
F1−4 –Lower Oven >950°F with door locked.................................
F1−7 –Membrane switch is not responding ...................................
F3−1 –Upper sensor is shorted at (< 100 ω) or
open at (>5 K ω) ...............................................................
F3−2 –Lower sensor is shorted at (< 100 ω) or
open at (>5 K ω) ...............................................................
Check actual upper oven temperature,
if > 650°F check sensor.
Check actual lower oven temperature,
if > 650°F check sensor.
Check actual upper oven temperature,
if > 950°F check sensor.
Check actual lower oven temperature,
if > 950°F check sensor.
Check membrane switch for connection or damage.
Check upper sensor, harness, and connections
Check upper sensor, harness, and connections
Engineering
Test Mode
Press BAKE pad.
Enter 100°F using the number pads.
Immediately push and hold BAKE pad for appropriate oven
approximately 3 seconds.
This mode can also be entered by pressing the hidden pad
for 3 second located to the left of the lower oven light pad.
Used to view the actual oven temperature for both ovens at all
times, even when an oven function is active.
This mode will also display the current fault code for 5
seconds in the time digits.
Fault codes
accessed
through
Engineering
Test Mode
F0−0 –No fault .................................................................
F1−5 –Upper hardware failure within control ....................
F1−6 –Lower hardware failure within control.....................
F1−8 –Shorted key in membrane switch ..........................
F1−9 –Internal communication errors within control .........
F1−A –Upper latch switches ............................................
F1−B –Lower latch switches.............................................
F1−C –Upper door switch.................................................
F1−D –Lower door switch.................................................
F1−E –Sensor input not calibrated ...................................
F1−H –EEPROM error .....................................................
F1−L –Temp in ovens are the same for long period .........
F1−N –Internal voltage on control not working .................
F9−1 –Upper lock switch is not correct.............................
F9−2 –Upper unlock switch is not correct.........................
F9−3 –Control does not see upper door lock....................
F9−4 –Lower lock switch is not correct.............................
F9−5 –Lower unlock switch is not correct.........................
F9−6 – Control does not see lower door lock ...................
EE –Control cannot read E-PROM. Unit will shut down.
Default from factory
Replace control
Replace control
Check membrane connection
Replace control
Check latch wire harness
Check latch wire harness
Check lock wire harness
Check lock wire harness
Verify sensor is operating properly
Replace control
Verify sensor is operating properly
Replace control
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Disconnect power for 60 seconds. If EE reappears, replace ERC
Test Mode This mode must be activated within the first 5 minutes of
power up.
Press BROIL and CANCEL pad for approximately 3 seconds.
If oven temperature is greater than 400°F, the Test Mode
cannot be activated or will abort if active.
Press and hold individual pads for 4 seconds to activate.
Display will have dashes in all segments to indicate the mode is
active.
Upper Bake: Energizes upper bake element
Lower Bake: Energizes lower bake element
Upper Broil: Energizes upper broil element
Convection Bake: Energizes convection fan
Upper Oven Light: Energizes upper oven light
Lower Oven Light: Energizes lower oven light
Upper Clean: Energizes upper motorized door lock
Lower Clean: Energizes lower motorized door lock
Stop Time: Energizes Beeper
Cook Time: Displays error codes
Timer 1: Energizes ROM version
Timer 2: Energizes EEPROM version
Keep Warm: Cooling Fan
Clock: All display segments light
If functions do not perform as specified, replace ERC
Oven
temperature
adjustment
Push BAKE pad.
Enter 550°F using the number pads.
Immediately push and hold BAKE pad for appropriate oven
approximately 3 seconds.
To decrease or increase oven temperature. Push AUTO SET
pad until negative or positive numbers appear. Oven can be
adjusted from -35° to +35° (-37.2° to + 1.6° C) in 5° F (2.7° C).
To avoid over adjusting oven move temperature -5° each time.
Push OVEN CANCEL button.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

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Oven will not heat to requested temperature

Shaffy, When baking only the bake element should heat. When broiling only the broil element (upper) should heat. Your oven is a Kitchenaid, you have a 5 year warranty on any electronic element or control board. You may have a temperature sensor that is not working right. The oven just might need to be calibrated, the instructions would be in your owners manual. Your bake element might be failing, it would have to be ohmed out. You also need to verify that the bake element is getting 240V. when turned on. Catriver...post back
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