Question about Raypak Rp2100 Pool & Spa Heater Lonox 407k Btu Natural Gas Polymer Header Digital Rp407aenc

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RP 2100 DIGITAL sparks...won't ignite

I can hear the spark but no flame. Gas is coming to the valve, yet unsure if it gets to the pilot. The digital reads SPK. Prepared to take any voltmeter readings unless you already have a solution.

Thanks for any help,
Wiley Lucas

Posted by wileyl on

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2 Related Answers

dragonsthatk

Albert Getty

  • 547 Answers

SOURCE: RayPak 2100 pilot won't light heater. I'm getting PLT message.

Well your right it is your ignighter the spk is spark the plt piolet light this pc is about 200 .

THANK YOU FOR USEING FIXYA
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Posted on May 03, 2009

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protek480

Craig Butler

  • 1730 Answers

SOURCE: We had a power outage. now the spk keeps buzzing

The 'thermocouple' might not be working. Is the pilot light staying lit? The therm. sends a millivolt signal to the control insuring a pilot is lit.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_3fa289bf857b1a3c

Posted on Jul 09, 2009

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Being as how you changed the gas valve, make sure the arrow on the bottom of the gas valve is pointed towards the burner. Check for 24 volts at the common and main valve terminals on the gas valve when the thermostat is calling for heat...terminals MV and C. You will only have 24v there if the flame sensor senses flame... either pilot flame or main gas. You coud have 24v there without gas flowing or flame if is is a thermocouple standing pilot system and the gas valve is not in the 'on' position. But standing pilot systems usually do not have flame sensors.

With a flame sensor in the system, you have to have either spark ignition or glow coil ignition. If its spark ignition check for 24 volts at the pilot valve and common terminals on the gas valve WHILE the ignitor is sparking. That would be PV and C. The ignitor should spark and 24v should be on PV and C for 30 seconds to a full minute without ignition if it is a spark-to-pilot system.

If you have a glow coil, it will energize and burn bright orange for a minimum of 30 seconds BEFORE the main valve is energized. Then MV and C is only receiving 24v for approximately 5 to 6 seconds. This gives the flame sensor the time to prove the flame....if it does not prove flame, the system shuts down.

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Have 85000 but all-pro propane heater. starts fine good flame, release the gas valve button, heater shuts down no gas


If you have a thermocouple and standing pilot as described the gas cannot flow full to the burners with the gas valve button depressed because the position of the gas valve to allow the button to be depressed is not in the 'on' position....its in the 'pilot' position.

Are you sure you cleaned the 'thermocouple' and not just a 'spark ignition electrode' ?? One with spark ignition will not have a gas valve that has a pilot position.... Kinda confusing and conflicting data to sort through ..... Hmmmm....

If you have the spark ignition style, the problem COULD be in the 'flame rectification' circuit. IF it has the ignition electrode, the other side of the furnace will contain the 'flame sensor' that senses the flame and completes the ground circuit of the electronic module through the flame. Its not doing it, so either it is oxidized up inhibiting its ability to conduct electricity through the flame or there is residual oxidation within some of the terminal connections of the ground circuit.

IF what you have is the 'standing pilot', the first suggestion is to replace the thermocouple. A more remote possibility is the gas valve has a defective safety coil that drops out when you release the pilot button.

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When the heat cycle calls for gas there is no ignition is my gas valve bad?


I don't know what kind of furnace you have. But most furnaces have some sort of pilot first than after it is proven than the main gas will come on. Either a standing Pilot with a thermocouple. A hot surface ignition or Spark ignition with a flame sensor. Or a direct fire system where hot surface or spark ignitor start first than all the burners send a 1 sec blast of gas which is proven by the flame sensor if it proves the gas valve stays on.....
In what you have said you have 24 volts to the gas valve and it has not lite. then does the gas valve have a pilot tube???Does it have a thermocouple?? Do you smell gas?? If you don't smell gas then the main part of the valve has not opened. The Pilot valve has to open first and prove before the main gas will come on. I hope this helps. If you still need help repost with the name and model # of the furnace.

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I have a pool heater RP 2100 you set the temperature it calls for the spark -then there's usually a poof and the flame icon comes on, and the heater heats up. Now set temperature, Calls for heat -the spark...


make three attempts to get heater running. most electronic ignition heaters will lock out after 3-4 times. after it locks out error codes should present themselves.....such as ignition failure, prs, etc.
ensure proper gas and water pressure. check voltage supplied to your raypack's igniter aswell. if heater fires up then instantly shuts off, then it may be the flame sensor

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Hi, First check if you have a full tank and that the pipes are clear of any insects, water or debris. Next see if you have a spark where the pilot is, if you can hear the piezo clicking but cannot see a spark then check the lead. Sometimes the lead can get loose and short out lower down and prevent the spark from reaching the pilot. You may need to take the lead out to fully check. If you have a spark and gas is reaching the pilot then check the tilt switch, if faulty it can turn the gas valve off. To check you can just short out the tilt switch, found this site very useful patio heater problem solving.

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The oven won't turn on unless it detects flame, typically starting a small flame (similar to a pilot light) with a spark first, then the valve allows the main burner to start.
If you aren't hearing the spark or don't see the ignition source come on, the oven will never turn on.

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I have a Maytag gas over/stove, Model number MGR5755QDW. The broiler heats, but the oven does not. What are the possible causes and how do I troubleshoot?


If you are having problems with the oven, the first thing to do is figure out if you have a pilot light system or a glow bar system.
Problems with the pilot light system.....The flame has gone out, re-light the pilot. The pilot flame will not light - possible oven control is not sending gas for the pilot light. The pilot light works but no main burner ignition - possible pilot assembly is dirty and the pilot flame is too small, safety valve and thermocouple is faulty, the bulb from the safety valve is out of position and the pilot flame is not touching the thermocouple bulb. Some ranges use a standing pilot light ( small flame is on all the time ) while others use an spark ignition to light the pilot light flame and the pilot light flame heats up the thermocouple bulb to allow the main gas to flow through the oven burner.
The flame needs to heat the bulb up enough to tell it to open the gas valve. Several things can go wrong here that keep this from happening:
The pilot flame may not be hot enough, usually because the flame is yellow instead of pure blue or is too small. The cause for this is usually a dirty pilot assembly. The pilot assembly would either need to be cleaned or replaced.The thermocouple bulb may not be positioned properly in the flame. You can't heat the bulb properly if it's not in the pilot flame! The thermocouple bulb needs to be in the upper third of a pure blue pilot flame--that's the hottest part of the flame.
The thermocouple itself may be burned out. It happens. It's a internal part of the gas valve so, no, you can't just change the thermocouple bulb separate from the gas valve.
But when you turn on the oven or the thermostat calls for heat, the pilot flame gets bigger and jumps down so it can heat up the thermocouple bulb. This extra gas to increase the pilot flame size comes from the thermostat.
If the pilot flame jumps upwards or just gets bigger, but doesn't shoot down, then you need to replace the pilot assembly.If the pilot flame size does not increase or jump down when turning on the oven thermostat, then the problem is the thermostat not sending enough gas to the pilot assembly. It's also possible that the pilot gas supply tube has a hole in it somewhere.
One final point on the spark-assisted pilot ignition systems. The spark comes from the spark module--the same module that sends spark to your surface burners to light them up. If you're not getting a spark when you turn the oven on, then there are several possibilities:
There could be a problem with the switch in the thermostat. You can confirm this by doing a simple continuity test of the thermostat contacts. If you don't read zero ohms when you turn the switch on, replace the thermostat.The spark module could be bad. You'll need to measure the voltage at the oven terminals of the spark module when you turn on the oven. If you get 120v but no spark, it's probably a bad spark module. Replace it.
Could be a bad spark wire or broken electrode.
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You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com
This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya.

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If sound of click has changed try this; Get a small mirror that you can use to inspect in the burner tray while trying to start and inspect after dark to see if the spark is jumping anywhere it should not. Also when it is light out do the same only look closley at the pilot assembly itself and see if any soot has built up on the pilot burner this will also stop the spark from being hot enough to ignight the flame. Be sure to let any gas fumes clear each time you try light the heater as when they build up they can be very dangerious, this is also why you should use the mirror to inspect. To keep your face away from any flair ups.

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1 Answer

Kenmore gas oven model no. 273 3248296 pilot free ignition wont fire up


Hi

If it won’t fire then it is possible that the oven control is not sending gas for the pilot light. The pilot light works but no main burner ignition - possible pilot assembly is dirty and the pilot flame is too small, safety valve and thermocouple is faulty, the bulb from the safety valve is out of position and the pilot flame is not touching the thermocouple bulb. Some ranges use a standing pilot light ( small flame is on all the time ) while others use an spark ignition to light the pilot light flame and the pilot light flame heats up the thermocouple bulb to allow the main gas to flow through the oven burner.
The flame needs to heat the bulb up enough to tell it to open the gas valve. Several things can go wrong here that keep this from happening:
The pilot flame may not be hot enough, usually because the flame is yellow instead of pure blue or is too small. The cause for this is usually a dirty pilot assembly. The pilot assembly would either need to be cleaned or replaced.
The thermocouple bulb may not be positioned properly in the flame. You can't heat the bulb properly if it's not in the pilot flame! The thermocouple bulb needs to be in the upper third of a pure blue pilot flame--that's the hottest part of the flame.
The thermocouple itself may be burned out. It happens. It's an internal part of the gas valve so, no, you can't just change the thermocouple bulb separate from the gas valve.
But when you turn on the oven or the thermostat calls for heat, the pilot flame gets bigger and jumps down so it can heat up the thermocouple bulb. This extra gas to increase the pilot flame size comes from the thermostat.
If the pilot flame jumps upwards or just gets bigger, but doesn't shoot down, then you need to replace the pilot assembly.
If the pilot flame size does not increase or jump down when turning on the oven thermostat, then the problem is the thermostat not sending enough gas to the pilot assembly. It's also possible that the pilot gas supply tube has a hole in it somewhere.
One final point on the spark-assisted pilot ignition systems. The spark comes from the spark module--the same module that sends spark to your surface burners to light them up. If you're not getting a spark when you turn the oven on, then there are several possibilities:
There could be a problem with the switch in the thermostat. You can confirm this by doing a simple continuity test of the thermostat contacts. If you don't read zero ohms when you turn the switch on, replace the thermostat.
The spark module could be bad. You'll need to measure the voltage at the oven terminals of the spark module when you turn on the oven. If you get 120v but no spark, it's probably a bad spark module. Replace it.
Could be a bad spark wire or broken electrode.

Please do rate the solution and revert for further assistance.


Thanks
Rylee

Sep 10, 2009 | Kenmore Ovens

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