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Re: My 40-FAC heater will not ignite and run. The igniter...
These models require electrical power to run the blower fan.
When you connect the electrical cord, the fan should turn on, then you should be able to start / ignite the propane. if the fan does not turn on when you connect the power cord, you will not be able to ignite the propane.
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ignition key on engine not running unplug ignition module connector there is a purple/white wire with a test light to batt + touch and release many time you will hear a clicking sound and a spark tester at one spark plug wire if yes look for defect crank sensor or ignition module
hope it helps
has spark? has fuel going to carb? if you smell gas from the muffler or carb then it not burning check for spark pull plug touch away from the hole so you don't ignite the vapors on the engine look for a great blue red spark
You have fuel at the rail, now it's time to see if it's making it past the injectors. Disconnect the air intake duct from the throttle body. Have an assistant crank the engine over while opening the throttle slightly. Spray starting fluid into the throttle body and see if the engine attempts to start. If it does, then the injectors are not firing. The reason the injectors are not firing could be : 1. Blown injector fuse (sometimes marked "INJ"). 2. Bad crank sensor. 3. No power to computer. 4. Computer problem (bad injector drivers). If you have tried to start the vehicle many times, then you should start to smell fuel if it is getting into the engine. If you smell fuel, then let it sit for a while and try checking for spark. An inexpensive spark tester can be purchased from most parts stores. The reason for no spark could be : 1. Blown ignition fuse (sometimes marked "IGN"). 2. Failed ignition module. 3. bad crank sensor. 4. bad ignition switch. If everything checks out, then try disconnecting the battery for at least 20min. the longer the better. If the engine still wont start, then more advanced diagnostics will be needed to determine the problem. I hope that this information is helpful and thank you for using Fixya.com. WARNING : Wear safety glasses when performing the starting fluid test. Keep hands and loose clothing away from moving engine parts and cooling fan motor. Use caution when working around distributorless ignition systems. These systems produce extremely high voltages which can cause severe injury or even death.
If you are firing, and then going off and getting an E05, your igniter is to blame. It may be glowing but it's getting weak. There is further diagnostic goes further but that is usually the fix. Sometimes, when a heater has not been used in awhile, the igniter is always to blame. You really need to fire it off weekly to make it reliable. But, lets say that the igniter has failed completely, then you would need to replace the igniter. For a better diagnosis, we would need to know some additional information: 1) Is the heater natural gas or propane?2) Do you smell gas at any time in the 5 minutes the heater is trying to fire?3) If you listen closely, can you hear the "tick, tick, tick" of the igniter? If you are able to provide us this additional information, we will be able to provide you with some more detailed ideas on what is going on! Thank you for allowing us the opportunity to help and we really look forward to your feedback!-The Ugly Pool Giy, www.WeFixUglyPools.com
Is this you? http://www.fixya.com/support/t3950480-no_spark_changed_ignltion_modual_no
If all this has been done it must be the flywheel or the ignition unit. I might try the local Husky dealer just to maintain my sanity. He can swap the ignition unit into a known good saw in a couple of minutes and verify good or bad. He might even be willing to honor the Husky warranty on a bad coil. Please reply with the outcome.
Make sure your distruibutor rotor in turning while cranking engine, if it is timing belt ok, more then likely your not getting spark to spark plugs check your ignition coil, but more then likely it's going to be your ignition module.