Saniflo says the bottom of shower should be 8" from floor. But what is the lowest the shower can be and still function ok?? Will 5" give enough slant? Or, how high does the water get in the sanibest u

check flushing mechanism at the bottom to ensure nothing blocks it and that it closes securely after flush.

Usually Saniflo requires 8" or 9" from top of p-trap to floor level, not from top of shower base to floor level. If the base is raised 8" then you will have enough room to fit a p-trap without cutting the concrete, if you had cut the floor to fit the p-trap then the base is not raised high enough to maintain the water pressure inside to engage the unit.

Hello. When you say basement side, I assume you are referring to the underneath. There are a number of options available, all hinge on the conditions you have.

1) Plenty Of Room: The best scenario. You can install a solid cross brace (preferably the same material as your joists) across spanning from one joist to another under the seam. Nail (best method - due to ability to handle potential shear stresses) cross brace in as secure as possible to the floor boards. Once that is done, lightly drive in a shim or two coated both sides with a little (this stuff goes a long way!) construction adhesive.

2) Same as Above, But Pipes Run Through: Either use a solid cross brace that will fit (ie 2x3) and treat the same as above, or use the 2x2 method where they are installed diagonally, but directly underneath the seam and shim. This should remove most of the squeak.

3) Not So Much Room, But Still Workable: (ie no pipes but limited access) Build an "H" frame that will span between joists, and the cross piece will do the same as #1. Secure in any manner you can, but ensure that it is secure on both sides of each support. Then shim and glue.

4) Can't Cross Brace: Not the greatest solution, but sometimes necessary. This one depends solely on the knowledge you have of the materials used... specifically their thickness'. Cut a piece of 5/8 inch (3/4 inch is better) plywood that will fit into the beam spaces under the seam. Be sure that they span about 6 to 8 inch on either side of the seam using screws (prefferably the kind meant for wet applications). NOTE: some shower bases are installed on a concrete/thin-set curb, this means that the screws must not penetrate the sub floor OSB. So, if your flooring material is only 5/8 inch, your overall screw length should not exceed 5/8 plus material used. (ie 5/8 + 5/8 is 1 and 1/4 inch maximum. Ideally 1 inch only) After all we only want the screws to hold. Before securing the brace, spread a good construction adhesive on it (I am a big fan of PL Premium).


If you are referring to the other side of a wall, and the shower is on the lowest level, there isn't much available in my experience. I have seen some similar issues involve: removing the silicone around the base and securing that. This involves drilling some of the material out on one side of the seam, filling with a two part epoxy, using heavy weights to secure the floor down, and shaping the epoxy smooth so the caulking will cover. This never does the job completely as access to the seam is limited.

These methods are a few suggestions that should help the issue. If they help out, please rate this answer a four thumbs-up. Thank you and good luck.

There is a product called Wham that works very well for this appplication.You will probably have to go to a plumbing supply outlet to find it. Just follow directions on container after you have the system clean and use monthly. It also helps with odor control. Hope this helps you. Thanks.

One of my customers had a similar problem. The solution was that the shower base needed to be elevated. From top of shower drain to floor level should be roughly 8" to 9"

If you mean that it self activates then the non-return valve is at fault by the sound of what you say

check the fuse has not gone or the trip for the electrics before proceeding as no power = no saniflo, assuming this is ok -
1. get old rags/papers and some rubber gloves (marigold type), plastic beaker and a bucket.
2. get a pozi and a flat screwdriver
3. isolate electric supply to saniflo
4. ensure loo cannot be flushed (tape handle)
5. place cloths and papers around pan
6. bail water from pan into bucket (as low as poss) with beaker
7. slacken screw to pipe on top of saniflo (outlet)
8. get bucket (now emptied) disconnect pipe and prepare to catch liquid from pipe, especially if pipe goes up the wall.
9. slip connector off pan, depending on model there may also be a connection from a sink / shower / bath to disconnect.
10 attempt to withdraw saniflo from behind pan - if this is not possible you will have to remove the pan.
11. remove top from saniflo (screws around lid)
12 when the top has been removed you will see a basket inside, if the blockage is from a female article (of the cotton wool nature) this will be jamming the motor and pump, remove any problems (sometimes a loo fresh thingy) take care as there are masserator blades at the bottom of the basket.
13 if the basket is clear and you can see the blades it is a unit failure - it is often cheaper to buy a new one than pay for a service engineer, check first.
14 if you can remove the blockage then do so - re-instatement is the reverse of removal.
If in any doubt seek professional advice, if you get stuck seek professional advice, do not reconect electrics unless you are sure everything went ok, do not reconnect electrics sitting on damp floor, best leave everything to dry out before reconnecting and trying it out

These usually have a larger drain line than a shower or bath. If you are draining into a smaller drain then there will be a considerable amount of backing up. This is not a good idea. hope this helps. Good luck.

See if you can adjust the highth of the saniflow,to make it kick on sooner. goodluck.