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Re: Tube and shower installation. Shower head dribbles...
It sounds like the diverter is not fully opening to allow the water to run to the spout. If the diverter is in the wall, perhaps there is a seal in there that needs replacing. If it is in the spout, just replace the spout,
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It's possible you installed the valve upside down, all values should be labeled in some way marking either hot and cold or it will say the word up where the riser tube port for the shower head is. If that's not the case remove the tub spout and check for any obstruction sometimes during tile or constructing debris can get into the pipe for your tub spout. Lastly the diverter on the tub spout could be bad. Try a new tub spout
I assume inside the air handler closet, underneath the unit, or wherever unit is located. Sounds like condensate line is stopped up. You need to blow out with compressed air. You must make sure that you block air from exiting from open end of line. I use a plastic shopping sack. May have to remove cover to evaporator and insert hose in condensate drain connection in drain pan. Stuff the bag in around hose and opening to seal and blast air into line. Be sure that if there is a "T" fitting with riser and cap on the end, that it is secure, otherwise you may get a shower. You also may use the riser with the cap remove to blow out. insert hose past opening leading back to evaporator drain push bag down past opening leading back to evap drain, then seal around inserted hose and blast. The riser with the cap is where you would pour some bleach every couple of months to keep line clear.
The faucet was installed upside down.
The shower riser pipe in the wall is to short( the distance between the faucet and shower head).
One of the biggest problems is if your shower faucet was installed with Pex pipe to the tub spout. Pex pipe will restrict the flow and force the water back up and out of the shower head.
The tub spout must be piped with at least 1/2 brass pipe nipples and fittings, or 5/8 OD. copper pipe and fittings.
Hope this helps, if you further questions please let us know.
Good for you taking on this project. The first thing I will start with, is if you are not comfortable soldering copper then I would stop and call in a plumber to install the shower. If you have soldered copper in the past and are comfortable doing so then please proceed. Give yourself 2 to 3 full days to complete the project. You will need: Plumbing permit, available from your local munucipality. It will need to be inspected after the work is completed. Solder, solder flux and propane torch Heavy suede work gloves Water Spray bottle Pipe wrench Safety Glasses Hacksaw Deburring tool for copper pipe Emery cloth Tape measure Screw driver or screw gun Mounting Screws Old blankets 5 gallon pail 1/2" Copper pipe and fittings To begin we will have to uninstall the old shower. I find it helps to take photographs of the existing system so that you can see how the new one should go back together in case you get stuck halfway through the project and cannot see how to finish it off correctly. If you can access the shower from the other side of the wall, great. If not you will need to remove the shower surround or tile on the end wall where the plumbing is. Be sure to protect the tub with an old comforter or something to keep the tub from getting scratched up during construction. Before removing the old shower be sure to locate the shut off valves and close them. Turn both hot and cold on in the shower to remove any water pressure in the lines. Disassemble all the trim pieces of the old shower including the tub spout, handles, diverter and shower head. Take measurements of the existing piping to assist you when it comes time to cut and assemble the new copper. Do not reuse any of the old fittings. They will be very difficult to solder and new ones are very cheap. You should have 2 copper risers coming out of the floor, one cold, one hot. Cut them approx 12" above the floor. Repeat the same process for the tub spout and the shower riser. With all 4 pipes cut you can now remove the brass manifold from the 2X4 blocking. Disassemble the shower flange pipe from the copper shower riser. You should now have just the cut copper risers coming out of the floor. Use the deburring tool to clean the sharp edges where you cut the risers. This will aid in soldering the new pipe in and avoid you cutting yourself on the sharp copper while you work. To be continued.
Now that everything is apart it is time to cut all the copper to proper size and mount the brass manifold on the blocking within the wall. Take a close look at the drawings on the instructions. The plastic piece that covers the brass manifold will need to be flush with the drywall so that when you install the escutcheon plate it is also flush with the drywall. Be sure to test fit all the plumbing before soldering to ensure. begin by soldering the fittings that will screw into the manifold. Once this is done begin reconnecting the plumbing system. Again I can't stress enough that if you are not comfortable or have experience soldering copper to bring in a licensed pro. Nothing worse than completing the job and finding its either not up to code or worse leaks and you have to back over the job. Good luck with your project and let me know if I can be of any further help. Sorry it took so long to finish this. I was out sick for about a week right after I completed the first part. Good luck.
Start by turning the water off to the whole house. Open the tiled wall or if there is access behind the old valve open that wall instead. With a tubing cutter cut the hot and cold water lines as well as the shower riser. Remove any clips that are securing the valve to the wooden studs. Mount the new valve in the same area as the old. Make sure that the valve is not upside down arrows on the brass body will indicate flow direction for the tub spout. Connect the water supply lines to the new valve by means of soldering or mechanical joint. Connect the existing shower riser by means of soldering or mecnaical joint. Turn the water on and test for leaks.