Hi, this is a little used machine with very little wear. We have done a couple of drying loads recently (We wash our clothes with a different machine) and when I went to do a wash with it, it starts to fill, but then stops, and the door unlocks! It drys clothes fine and runs full cycle on all dry loads. I have done the error code thing and it says 'E40' but cant be door lock as it stays locked during drying mode?! AND it locks, starts to fill, and then stops, and unlocks.
Sounds like the switch that tells the controller that the door is closed and locked is actually bad or the plastic molded part holding the switch is broken. Inspect the interface for cracks.
SOURCE: Door lock
Run a diagnostic on the door lock system; To place the unit in "service mode", close the door completely then press and hold both the "Delicates" and "Heavy Soils" keys for three seconds. Motor speed will be displayed. Press "rinse" to access the main board output function. Then press "max extract"... this is the test for the door lock. Did it lock? To exit, press "max extract" again and then both "Delicates" and "Heavy Soils" for three seconds. VOLTAGE TESTS AHEAD!!! IF YOU AREN'T SURE YOU CAN DO IT, THEN DON'T! CALL A PROFESSIONAL! If the door did not lock, you'll need a voltmeter and an hour or so. Open the door, remove the screws holding the door hinges, then remove the 2 screws (and shims) opposite the door hinges and close the door (do not take it off). Then grasp the front panel at the top near where it meets the top panel and pull toward you quickly. Lean it forward and remove it from the 2 clips at the bottom. Just below the top panel, now exposed, are the top panel retainers... use a 5/16" to remove the one screw on both sides and remove the retainer clips. Now lift the top panel up just like the hood of a car. You can now see the door latch assy. Remove the 2 wires on the solenoid and insert your meter probes into each one of them (color doesn't matter). Set your meter to read AC Voltage, then re-enter "Service Mode" and follow the steps to door lock test. When you hit the "Max Extract" key, 120 volts should be sent to the meter. If you get 120 volts, your latch assy. has failed and should be replaced. If you don't get 120 volts, your control board output has failed and needs to be replaced. Hope this helps.
SOURCE: Whirlpool Duet Error code F 32
Plug off the wall. Open up behind, you will see a thin tube coming down from the control panel (pressure switch to be precise) to the waste area below. Disconnect this carefully from the top, blow into it, air should pass thru, it shd not be clogged; refit carefully. Before refitting, fit a similar tube to the pressure switch & blow - you should hear a click; if not there shd be a problem with your pressure switch. Anyway refit your old tube & try the machine.
Dont forget to refit the main exit hose at the position you found it. All you guys are going to rate me....................
SOURCE: kenmore elite HE 3t - error code F dU and door is locked
Just in case there is a pull string with a loop, all plastic under the latch, need to pull the toe panel off and reach up inside the right, unplugged of course until you feel the switch. a pull latch is below the switch incase this happens and hats off to all star/ a serial error or a faulty switch is most of what causes this to start.
SOURCE: My LG WM3431H All-In-One Washer and Dryer won't dry
Thanks to CoolTech for pointing me in the right direction, I just finished a full clean out and diagnostics test and my dryer works once again.
This repair isn't rocket science nor is it a good idea for the mechanically timid. I managed to get the critical parts out for cleaning and back in properly with just a phillips head screwdriver and a pair of pliers for the spring type hose clamps so it's not a matter of custom tools.
You have dig pretty deep and remove an awful lot of cabinet parts, fans, heater assemblies and something like 30 or 40 various screws to get to the condensor duct and bellows to clean them. Sure enough my condensor duct was jam packed with lint. Once removed I was able to clean it with a creatively bent coat hanger, but a semi flexible bottle brush/pipe cleaner about 18 inches long and an inch or so brush diameter would be a better tool.
If you want to tackle this job, and again it sounds daunting but isn't to someone with reasonable mechanical skills you should do yourself a favor and buy a copy of the factory service manual. I got mine on line from these guys: http://www.manualuniverse.com/ but there are probably other sources including LG if you search by the model number.
In addition to some less than obvious disassembly instructions the manual tells you how to trigger the self test mode and how to interpret the results, gives you good information on cold state resistance tests you can do on relays, heater elements, sensors, etc. and provides a good troubleshooting guide for a variety of problems.
All in all the job took me about an hour and a half and was pretty straightforward except for the last mounting screw for the condensor duct which is hard to get to and requires some effort to remove and replace but again I did the whole job with a standard medium sized screwdriver so it's not impossible.
Good luck and if you're having this problem and like me you don't have any local repair folks who'll touch it (not many of these all in ones in Wyoming) then I'd get your hands on the manual and dig into it. It's not fun, but not too hard either.
-Dave
SOURCE: Instruction Manual for Hotpoint washer dryer wd420
Try this link:
http://www.hotpointservice.co.uk/hs/pages/manual/manual/search.do
Enter the model number in the search box, and download instructions.
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Thankyou.
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