How do I fix leaky faucet?

Tools you'll need:
• Adjustable wrench; C wrench
• Phillips and/or flat-head screwdriver
• Penetrating oil, such as WD-40 or CRC
• Replacement washers and O-rings
Step 1: Don't make a mess worse by transforming your broken faucet into Old Faithful. Before applying any wrench or screwdriver to your fixture, make sure your water supply is turned off, from the handles over the sink to the knobs underneath that control the water coming in from the main line.
Step 2: Remove any decorative parts of the handle knobs. A simple prying with a flat-head screwdriver will take care of that. Underneath each knob, there will be a screw that mounts the handle to the stem. Unscrew, then gently remove the handle with your flat-head. Using penetrating oil can assist in loosening it, allowing you to take the faucet handle off the stem.
Step 3: Use your wrench to loosen the packing nut. From there you should notice the stem. Remove that as well. Depending on the faucet, some stems pop right off, while others twist off from the valve. Check the removed parts for any damage.
Step 4: If everything is intact at this point, inspect the O-ring and washer inside the valve seat-they could be the reason for your leak. Remove the washer and put a replacement inside the seat.
It's crucial to make sure your replacement washers and O-rings are an exact fit. If you are unsure about either, check the seat to see if the sides fit a cone-shaped or flat washer, and purchase the appropriate type. You may want to take the old O-ring to your local hardware store to verify the correct size. You can also buy a package including many different sizes of O-rings-sometimes it's worth the extra few bucks.
Step 5: From here, carefully reassemble all the parts (in order of washer/O-ring, stem, packing nut, screw, and handle). Slowly and gently turn the knob to test the running water and check to see if you've ****** that leak.
If, after all of your hard work, you notice the faucet is still dripping, then the cause may be corrosion in your valve seat. If not cleaned over time, it can produce leaks near the spout. Other potential problems are worn-out seals, loose parts, or, even worse, broken plumbing. If your troubleshooting leads to these areas, or if other sudden complications occur, then it may be time to call a professional plumber.
Here is Faucets & Fixtures, Sinks & Accessory Reviews .

These videos are the best procedure that I have used successfully

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Good Luck

If its leaking from the base of the spout where its attached to the body, its most likely the O rings that need replacing. The spout body could also be leaking as the metal is quite thin and can develop pin holes under the bottom face of the spout. To determine it that's the problem, turn the water on, place your hand under the spout body, you should not get any water spray, if you do (its usually a fine mist so its hard to see, but you will feel it) the spout is bad, replace it.

These faucets can leak in three different places:

1. Internally at the valve seat
   You'll see water dripping from the spout. This means the rubber washer is worn or damaged. To replace the washer, remove the decorative cap from the handle. Remove the retaining screw and pull off the handle. Remove the decorative cover, called an escutcheon, if there is one. Unscrew the packing nut counterclockwise. Unscrew the valve stem and remove it. Remove the screw that holds the rubber washer in place. Because these washers come in many shapes and sizes, you'll want to take the old one to the hardware store and buy an exact replacement. Be sure to buy two washers so you'll have one for the other valve. Replace the washer and reassemble the faucet.
   
2. Around the handle
   If you see water coming from below the handle, the packing nut is leaking. Older faucets have a string-like graphite packing material wrapped around the stem. Newer faucets use an O-ring. First try tightening the packing nut clockwise... about one-half turn. If this doesn't stop the leak, remove the packing nut and replace the packing or O-ring; then reassemble the faucet. If the valve is using the graphite packing material, it might be a clue that you should shop for a new faucet.
   
   
3. Between a pivoting spout and the body
   The spout might be held in place with a packing nut, similar to the faucet stem, or it might have a nut at the top of the spout. In either case, remove the spout and replace the packing material or the O-ring seal. Then reassemble the faucet.

Single lever faucets also are known as "washerless" faucets. They are easier to repair than compression faucets after you determine what type of faucet you have. There are three types of washerless faucets: ball, ceramic disk and cartridge.
Leaks are evident in two places... dripping from the spout and seeping from around the spout where it joins the body of the faucet.
Leaks from the spout indicate that the ball, disk or cartridge is leaking. To repair, turn off the water to the faucet, then remove the handle. The handles on ball-type faucets are held in place with a setscrew that requires an Allen wrench to loosen. Ceramic disk and cartridge-type handles usually are held in place by a screw hidden beneath a cap.
On ball and ceramic disk-type faucets, remove the ball or disk and replace the seals. You can buy replacement kits for these faucets at the hardware store or home center.
On cartridge-type faucets, remove the spout and pull out the retainer clip that holds the cartridge in place. To remove the cartridge, pull on the cartridge stem with a twisting motion. If it resists, install the handle so you can a better grip on the cartridge to pull it out. Take the cartridge to the hardware store or home center and purchase an exact replacement kit.
Reassemble the faucet according to directions.
Leaks at the spout-to-body joint indicate an O-ring failure. Disassemble the faucet as described above. Remove the spout sleeve and replace the O-rings. It's a good idea to replace these seals if you have the faucet disassembled for repair of the ball, disk or cartridge.

You don't say anything about what kind of faucet you have, so this may not apply. But if yours is the kind with handles you turn to control the water, you probably have worn-out compression washers. In this kind of faucet, water is shut off by pressing a rubber washer on the end of a threaded stem against an opening in the faucet body. When you turn the handle, you move the washer away from its seat and the water can flow. Over time the washer gets worn and no longer seals off the water. Also, the valve seat the washer presses against can wear and allow water to sneak past the seal. The result is that annoying drip or a steady trickle.

This site, among many others, shows how to change a washer and fix most drippy faucets. If you search for "repair a leaky faucet" you'll find lots of sites to pick from, including many with videos. If you faucet is not a compression type, a single-lever cartridge for instance, there are links to other repair procedures.

If your faucet is old and the parts very badly corroded and worn, you might want to fix the leak by replacing the entire stem as a unit. You can find replacement stems for most brands of faucet at big-box home improvement stores and at many hardware store. It's a little more expensive, but often much easier to unscrew the old one and pop in the new than to start trying to get the old washer off the stem.

A last tip: Whenever you do any work on a faucet, remove the aerator from the spout and run the water to help clear the line. If you just turn the water back on and run the faucet, debris that was kicked up during the repair can clog the aerator screen. Then you're left wondering why you get only a weak trickle or no water at all after you fixed the trouble.

If your Delta RP17453 Pull-Down Diverter Tub Spout stops dripping after 5 minutes, your ok. If it never stops dripping, you need to replace delta faucet cartridge(s) behind the handle(s). This is were the water turns on and off and stops the water flow to the tub spout.

Delta faucets are some of the easiest to repair, and parts are usually available at any hardware store or home center. If you have a two handle faucet, replace both delta seats and springs and stems. If you have a single handle Delta faucet, replace the entire cartridge.

if memory serve's me,you will need to remove a stem extension,screw in center,and you may need a tool #103462 to remove cartridge.1'st stem ex't is red,(hot) blue (cold), remove, look down,white piece w/ 2 notch'es, this hold's cartridge down, ya might try needle nose plier's to remove,a little lube help's upon re assembly, carefull w/plastic thread's

Faucet stems have an O-ring on the outside that seals against any leaking around them. You don't say if the leak is around the stems or from the spout. If it is from the spout, you may have replacement cups and springs under the stems that also need replacing. Also ensure that there is no dirt/sand inside when replacing them. This also can cause scratches which will cause dripping.

They just pull out, sometimes things get stuck and I cant get them lose as a plumber and you just have to buy a new one...dont feel bad

Make sure the sprayer is clean of debris. IF YOU HAVE HARD WATER, soak in CLR overnight. If sprayer is clear then its the diverter which is more indepth thru the stem.

Phil