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Maytag GS2126PADW fridge trips safety switch (earth leakage detector) after about 30 minutes. It's not caused by defrost heater.

Until it trips house safety seem to be working OK. Nothing obviously wrong. The repair guy can't find a fault

Posted by Phil Britton on


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Brad Brown

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The house that you live in might be using ADCI instead of GFCI. The newer protection is ARC FAULT DETECTION CIRCUIT INTERRUPTION. It can sense a SPARK and shut down the circuit.

Posted on Nov 21, 2014

Testimonial: "The detector was installed (latest model) a few months ago but the fault only showed up now. Thanks for your assistance."


4 Related Answers

robert samples

  • 1314 Answers

SOURCE: Periodic tripping of earth leakage switch.

your not supposed to run an appliance on a ground fault circuit because most of the components ground to the body og unit do you have it on a gcfi well here in america anyway

Posted on Jan 01, 2008



  • 31 Answers

SOURCE: Fridge keeps tripping electricity

I assume by "earth leakage" you mean it is on a GFI circuit? Some older GFI outlets are sensitive to and do not work well with motors or other inductive loads like your refridgerator compressor. As for the compressor feeling hot, this is usually normal.

If this is a GFI outlet, try replacing it with new unit. If it is a GFI breaker, try replacing that.

Posted on Jan 07, 2009


  • 400 Answers

SOURCE: Westinghouse 410l fridge trips new RCD's in fusebox

Tripping an earth leakage would indicate a break down of insulation in the windings of the compressor, the possibility of a short circuit in the wiring system or the defrost element down to earth. I recommend you have a certified technician check it out before you have a fire. If the Hoover is in good condition there is no reason not to replace it. Rate me please.

Posted on Mar 11, 2009


D. Floyd Kolb

  • 43501 Answers

SOURCE: Freezer working fine, fridge not


Many times a freezer and/or refrigeratordo not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many otherthings that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out thelast two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...

Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to starttrouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then callinga repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay
Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold


Posted on Oct 08, 2010

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It may be possible the defrost heater is shorting to earth or ground. This would trip the GFI every time the refrigerator went into defrost. It also is possible that water has infiltrated the insulation and causing a leakage current. This would be much harder to fix.

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Check the vent line (when it is working) for for good air flow...residual heat may be tripping the overheat safety.

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I assume the pump runs when switched on until a preset pressure is reached in the outlet when it cuts off, remaining on standby until the pressure falls due to a demand for water when it automatically restarts.

To achieve that automatic function there must be a pressure switch in the outlet side of the pump and that or the associated circuitry is where the fault must be as the pump seems to run ok when reset is pressed.
If it is modern it is likely electronics are involved and it would seem more likely those are at fault than a faulty pressure switch which could be expected to remain faulty all the time.

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My fridge tripe the earth leakage everytime I switch on the fridge.

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Xerox Phaser 8550 tripping RCD on warm up

IF the warranty is still in effect, call for service.
IF no warranty, then check the heaters for the solid inks.
Probably a bad element, or a shorted element.
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My fridge and freezer wont stay cold someone told me its some kind of fluid i was just wondering were i put it in at??

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With the above said, it is important to know the refrigerators do not often fail due to loss of refrigerant, but rather due to a faulty component in the defrost circuit. The defrost circuit consists of 4 main parts. They are: 1) defrost heater, 2) defrost terminator or sensor in series with the heater, 3) defrost timer and 4) wiring between the previous 3 parts.

The defrost heater is found in the compartment that houses the coiling coil. The defrost terminator or sensor is clipped or otherwise secured to be kept in physical contact with the cooling coil itself. The defrost timer may be located anywhere the manufacturer decides - a popular spot is in the toe space on the bottom of the fridge. The wiring, well, that is between all the parts. Chances are the wiring is fine - as would be the connectors to the individual components.

The defrost timer interval is about 8 hours. About 20 - 30 minutes in that 8 hour period the defrost switch is operated. This consists of switching power away from the compressor (so it shuts off) and to the defrost heater via defrost terminator. The heater is just a relatively small wattage heater that warms the freezer's freon filled cooling coil to melt any frost or ice build up on the cooling coil fins. It will be powered for up to 20 - 30 minutes by the timer or less - if the defrost terminator senses a rising temperature on the coil. This means that the heater will be on for either 20 - 30 minute OR until the defrost terminator gets warm enough.

If the timer is stuck - and never moves to the 20 - 30 defrost cycle, the frost on the coil will never melt away. If the timer does work, but the heating element has failed, the frost will never melt away. If the defrost terminator has failed open (preventing the power from getting to the heater), the will not work to melt the frost off the coil. If there is a loose, missing or damaged connection between the wiring harness and these components, it won't run as expected either.

To look at this problem yourself, empty the freezer and unplug the fridge. Access the coil by removing any ice maker and the back inside wall of the freezer. if it is iced up, you've probably got a defroster circuit related problem. You can allow it to defrost for the repairman or let it defrost and restock the freezer again. It should start working again for about a month before it frosts over again - depending on how often the freezer door is opened and how humid it is. Do this as often as needed until you can afford a repairman to look at the fridge.

I hope this helps. Please rate this reply - thanks!

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Why does my 15amp arc fault breaker trip when no one is in the house and when i reset it it won't trip right away but it trips roughly and hour later or longer

There must be something tripping the breaker whilst you are not in the house.

I would guess it is something like an electric water heater which cuts in from time to time. It is probably faulty and tripping the breaker - it may still heat the water so the fault is not obvious. Other things are air con units, fridges, pumps, anything that might come on whilst you are away.

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Maytag model GS2126PADW is tripping the ELCB. It will run for about one hour before tripping. After tripping, it trips the ELCB every time it is turned on. However if left off for an hour or so it can be...

The ELCB ( Electrical Leakage Circuit Breaker) is designed to detect any leakage of electrical current.
When the current leakage occurs, the ELCB then trips the electricity supply within a fraction of a second of the leakage being detected, before the magnitude of the current reaches a lethal level.
Therefore any possibility of serious injuries due to electric shock to persons who are in contact with the electrical appliance at that particular moment is minimized. Have a licensed Electrician check out your outlet and an Appliance Technician check your refrigerator if outlet proves okay.

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1 Answer

I accidently ran it for a few minutes wih nothing in it. I turned it off and everyting seemed fine. Later I walked in kitchen and there is no light, power or anything.

I assume you checked the power cord and house power circuit breaker panel... possibly tripped unrelated to your running the microwave empty.

(the following is from

The microwave oven may be powered from a GFCI outlet or downstream of one and the GFCI may have tripped. (Removing a broken oven lamp has been known to happen.) The GFCI outlet may not be in an obvious location but first check the countertop outlets. The tripped GFCI could be in the garage or almost anywhere else! Pushing the RESET button may be all that's needed.

Next, try to set the clock. With some ovens the screen will be totally blank following a power outage - there may be nothing wrong with it. Furthermore, some ovens will not allow you perform any cooking related actions until the clock is set to a valid time.

If those are not the problems, then the main fuse is the most likely suspect for a totally dead microwave.
Remember, while you can do some repairs on you microwave, what you don't know can kill you... even on an unplugged microwave, so make sure you understand the dangers and how to reduce them before you try anything inside a microwave. If you want to do more yourself, let me know and I will point you in the direction of some good resources.

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