Does it need a new pilot ignition control module or Ignition Pilot and Flame Sensor Kit?
Where and when it make sound?
Testimonial: "One week ago in the ignition area. Problem ceased one day after I submitted this question. Furnace not making the noise anymore! Not sure what happened - maybe there was a buildup on the flame sensor and it burned off? I will take the victory for now. I will let you know if the problem comes back. Thank you for replying to my question. Have a great Thanksgiving. Tom"
SOURCE: flame sensor
The flame sensor is located in the burner box of this unit. You may have to remove a cover plate to get to it. It will either look like a small probe or small diameter copper pipe (real small). It will either be close to the pilot or ignitor or aways away where the flame has to travel to it. A small brush or sand paper can be used to clean it. If your furnace has more than one burner, while you are inside, clean out the track that allows the flame to travel to each burner. A small can of compressed air works great along with a small wire bruch.
SOURCE: furnace problems
Yes, this a symptom when the heat exchanger has a crack in it. Get someone there today! If there is a crack, you could be exposing yourself to Carbon Monoxide! GET IT CHECKED NOW.
SOURCE: Glo-Warm Wall Gas Wall-heater parts...
We had a problem keeping the pilot light to stay on, and this site recommended that it could possibly be the thermocoupler that was causing our problems also. We ordered the thermocouple, put it on,hooked it back up and it worked great! Thank you so much.
ordered thermocouple from www.masterparts.net
SOURCE: Pilot light won't ignite on a Rinnai 2000 1
The trick is that it may take a long time for the flammable portion of the gas to reach the pilot light orifice where the flame lives. This happens a lot when the pilot flame has been out for some time. There won't be a clicking sound as YOU are supposed to provide the flame - it's not like a cooking stove with such conveniences, because the pilot light is only an occasional thing to light it's rare to find an ignition source built in. I'd hate to see you spend good money when all you need to apply here is time and a flame.
Testimonial: "thanks - much appreciated Mark"
SOURCE: Have two- 6000 glx firplaces,both 4 yrs old.
I realize this is an old question but i've put my answer out here in hopes that someone else looking for the same info might have it available.
Kevin,
In my case I've got a heatilator NB4236I and the same parts you've mentioned. I had also come to the idea that the GFVE14 gas module might be the issue. If you open it up you'll see that its a fairly simple solenoid - you can bench test it by taking it off the unit and simply providing power to the red tab and then simply grounding the chassis. In my case the problem didn't turn out to be the gas module - which is fairly unlikely given how simple it is - but rather a high limit switch that pops open if the heat exceeds the limit switch's non adjustable value.
You can easily test to see if the limit switch is the issue by disconnecting all of the other wires from the brown wires of the GM-6KA and basically just short them together (with the power and gas on - and the unit resealed) if it fires up then its almost assuredly the limit switch which you can simply reset. The fact that the heat limit switch blew though could be an indication of an installation problem and may quickly get into a situation that is not DIY.
I have 0 HVAC experience so definitely not an expert fwiw.
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It was making a loud clicking sound in the ignition area about a week ago. The day after I posted this question, the noise stopped. I suspect that there was a build up on the flame sensor or something that burned off. The unit is running normally and without the noise. I am monitoring the furnace for any new signs of trouble but it has been running perfectly now for the last week. Thank you for your inquiry, I will let you know if the problem comes back.
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