For the speaker outputs, is the pin or the sleeve the positive?

Radio C1
Pin

Wire Color

Circuit No.

Function
1
RD/WH
340
Battery Positive Voltage
2
TN
201
Left Front Speaker Output (+) (UQ3)
TN
511
Left Front Low Level Audio Signal (+) (UQA/UQS)
3
L-GN
200
Right Front Speaker Output (+) (UQ3)
L-GN/WH
512
Right Front Low Level Audio Signal (+) (UQA/UQS)
4
PK
5149
Voice Recognition Audio Signal (UE1 w/U3R/U3U/UVB)
5
PK/BK
5152
Low Reference (UE1)
6
WH
7066
Entertainment Remote Enable Signal
7
YE
6817
LED Backlight Dimming Control
8
BK
2550
Ground
9
GY
118
Left Front Speaker Output (-) (UQ3)
D-GN
1947
Left Front Low Level Audio Signal (-) (UQA/UQS)
10
D-GN
117
Right Front Speaker Output (-) (UQ3)
OG/BK
1546
Front Low Level Audio Signal (-) (UQA/UQS)
11
BARE
2011
Drain Wire (UQA/UQS)
12
--
--
Not Used
13
D-GN
5060
Low Speed GMLAN Serial Data
14
--
--
Not Used

I know this is late but might help someone plus I had to repair the audio input cable going from my acoustimass 25 series II to the Lifestyle 5 receiver. The 13 pin connecter cable terminates to 2 RCA jacks (red/white) one 3.5 mm jack and a female RCA which is the digital sound source. looking at the connector with the 13th pin on the bottom, I reference the pins from 1-13 starting at the top left:

PIN 1 RCA (RED) center conductor
PIN 2 RCA (RED) sleeve
PIN 3 RCA (digital) sleeve
PIN 4 RCA (digital) center conductor
PIN 5 RCA (WHITE) sleeve
PIN 6 not used
*PIN 7 3.5mm RING (?????)
PIN 8 3.5mm SLEEVE
PIN 9 RCA (WHITE) center conducto
PIN 10 not used
PIN 11 not used
PIN 12 3.5mm TIP
PIN 13 not used

* the 3.5 mm stereo jack is used for system control on the back of the lifestyle 5 receiver, the cable that terminates to the 3.5mm is a 3 conductor cable that terminates to PIN 8 & PIN 12 but PIN 7 only has continuity from the pin itself to the white cable (within the 3.5mm cable) but not all the way through to the 3.5mm ring (where i would assume it to terminate). Maybe this is where my problem is, I don't know but I spliced the cable right before the 3.5mm jack and there was continuity between PIN7 and the white cable that corresponds to the 3.5mm jack I just dont know where its terminating too. If anyone can confirm that it is supposed to terminate to the ring of the 3.5mm connector I would appreciate it.

You should use TRS since that is balanced just like XLRs.
Especially for long wire runs. This is if you go for XLR on the other end =
Pin 1= Sleeve
Pin 2= Tip (HOT)
Pin 3= Ring
Normally, in US equipment, 2 & 3 are inverted (3 is HOT), but you got British here, they switch the HOT pin on the XLR to pin 2.
That means that if you run this unit with US speakers your signal will be out of phase. Be careful there... I have lived this with AH boards before.
You can also use normal unbalanced cable for short runs, but I suggest keeping to standards.

Monsoon System Pinouts

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Pin Wire Color Function
E1 LT GRN Right Front Speaker Output (+)
E2 TAN Left Front Speaker Output (+)
E3 GRY Left Front Speaker Output (-)
E4 LT BLU Right Rear Speaker Output (-)
E5 DK BLU Right Rear Speaker Output (+)
E6 BRN Left Rear Speaker Output (+)
E7 YEL Left Rear Speaker Output (-)
E8 BLK Ground
E9 BLK Ground
E10 DK GRN Antenna Relay Coil Supply Voltage
E11 ORN Battery Positive Voltage
E11 ORN Battery Positive Voltage
E13 BLK Left Front Tweeter Speaker Output (+)
E14 YEL Left Front Tweeter Speaker Output (-)
E15 DK BLU Left Front Midrange Speaker Output (+)
E16 LT BLU Left Front Midrange Speaker Output (-)
F1 DK GRN Right Front Speaker Output (-)
F2 LT GRN Right Front Speaker Tweeter Output (+)
F3 PPL Right Front Speaker Tweeter Output (-)
F4 PPL Left Rear Tweeter Speaker Output (-)
F5 RED Left Rear Tweeter Speaker Output (+)
F6 DK GRN Right Front Midrange Speaker Output (-)
F7 ORN Right Front Midrange Speaker Output (+)
F8 PPL Gain Control Signal
F9 -- Not Used
F10 YEL Right Rear Tweeter Speaker Output (-)
F11 WHT Right Rear Tweeter Speaker Output (+)
F12 -- Not Used
F13 LT BLU/BLK Right Subwoofer Speaker Output (-)
F14 DK GRN Right Subwoofer Speaker Output (+)
F15 DK BLU/WHT Left Subwoofer Speaker Outlet (+)
F16 LT GRN/BLK Left Subwoofer Speaker Outlet (-)

or it is here 3rd one down
http://www.grandamgt.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=76

My guess is you have already figured out the two cables attached to the 12v car plug each go to the DVD player and Monitor. The Monitor power input schematic shows the inside pin to be positive, leaving the sleeve to be negative. WebRepOverall ratingThis site has no rating(not enough votes)

If it a PROPER head-shell the leads DO come off the pins at the rear of the cartridge.

Also if you are using EXTERNAL speaker it may be that the speaker leads are incorrectly wired to the speakers and that would simply be a matter of swapping the external speaker outputs over.

Remove the door panel

1. Remove the side impact bolster.

1. Detach the door speaker (if equipped).

1. Disconnect the speaker electrical connector and remove the door speaker (if equipped).

1. Detach the door latch release handle.

1. CAUTION: Do not touch the adhesive surface as re-bonding will be impaired.
   Detach the watershield.
   • Using a suitable plastic knife (disposable cutlery), cut through the Butyl strip to enable the watershield to be peeled back.

1. Remove the door glass top run retainer.

Vehicles with manual windows

1. Install the window regulator handle.

Vehicles with power windows

1. Connect the door glass operating switch electrical connector.

All Vehicles

1. Align the regulator clamp with the access hole (power window shown).

1. NOTE: Position the regulator operating cable to one side when drilling the retaining pin, in order to prevent damage.
   Detach the door glass from the regulator clamp.
   1. Using a suitable electric hand drill and a drill bit 8 mm, remove the retaining pin.
   1. Push out the retaining sleeve.
   1. Remove the door glass from the regulator clamp.
   • Discard the retaining sleeve.

1. Support the glass, lower the glass and regulator to the lowest position.

1. Position the lower part of the door glass top run outside the door.

1. NOTE: To aid removal of the door glass, stand on the inner side of the door. Make sure the glass is removed from the inside of the door.
   Remove the window glass.

Installation
All vehicles

1. CAUTION: Make sure vise jaw protectors are used.
   NOTE: Make sure that the retaining sleeve is central in the door glass.
   Attach a new retaining sleeve and retaining pin to the door glass.
   1. Position the retaining sleeve in the door glass.
   1. Using a suitable vise, press the retaining pin into the retaining sleeve.

1. Install the window glass in the door.

1. Attach the door glass to the regulator clamp.
   • Push the door glass firmly down to engage the retaining pin and retaining sleeve into the regulator clamp.

1. Position the lower part of the door glass top run on the inside of the door.

1. Close the window.

1. Install the door glass top run retainer.

1. Attach the watershield.

1. Attach the door latch release handle.

1. Connect the door speaker electrical connector (if equipped).

1. Install the door speaker (if equipped).

1. Install the side impact bolster.

Vehicles with manual windows

1. Remove the window regulator handle.

Vehicles with power windows

1. Disconnect the door glass operating switch electrical connector.

All vehicles

1. Install the door trim panel

http://an-labs.com/multi/sw190.html 12vac

You might have a loose wire in the mic plug, also in the plug itself there are 4 holes for 4 pins in the radio to fit into, these 4 holes have tiny metal sleeves in them to make contact with the radio pins. these sleeves are split and you can take a tiny jewlers screwdriver and slightly close up these sleeves this causes them to fit tighter on the radio pins creating a better connection. these sleeves WILL over time spread out causing the radio to lose a function such as receive or transmit I have encountered this problem several times in the past at my shop. Good luck on your problem.