The water got to hot and the pop off value not working

check first if you have good water flow to and from heater. lift pressure release valve on inlet and allow few sec to flow, same with outlet hot water safety valve.

remove front cover from the heater, you should see your gas connection and thermostat knob.

check if gas is burning evenly and on whole surface, check for leaks on the heater and on the lines to and from the heater.

if you did not find any faults, no leaks, safety valves work correctly, check thermostats settings,

wind it down to minimal, then turn it to about 1/4 value (you did not specify model but this should do, widening arrow or numerical values ar self explanatory), lift hot water safety valve for few seconds, then open any hot water tap (faucet if you are an american...) and check if gas ignites and burns.

set thermostat to about 2/3 value and again, lift hot water safety valve for few seconds, then open any hot water tap. check if gas ignites and if water is sufficiently hot, if too hot - wind it down to say 1/2 way, if too cold, wind it till resistant and then back off a bit, DO NOT EVER LEAVE VALVE OR THERMOSTAT ON MAX!.

if none of these help - you need either, change the thermostat or heater itself.

if works - you solved the problem, close the tap, close the cover and use the system as you normally do.

i am always recommending use of insulation on the hot water system, it saves heaps of money over the life of the system.

hope this will help you - do not forget to vote... :-)

The left canister probably has a grounded element in it, which will keep power going after the water is off. Either that or you have a bad triac on your control unit

1) You have bad thermostat. Replace both thermostats:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-TP-valve.html

2) Copy following link for troubleshoot resources:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

3) Add comment dec 2012 and say what you discover.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

test the thermostat and the heating elements --also there are resets that can pop push and make sure they have reset

bobo mayuk

Replace the melted part.

If tank is popping breaker, then the melted part has a short circuit.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html
When replacing thermostats, I usually replace both of them
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html

There are 5 basic parts to electric water heater.
Electricity to water heater.
Upper thermostat
Upper element
Lower thermostat
Lower element
It sounds like electricity is good.
Elements are probably good if just replaced, but one of them could have a short.
Thermostat is melted, so replace it and see if it restores hot water.
If not, then take 40 minutes and do complete troubleshoot as shown in link above.

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on timer or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Bad faucet cartridge:
walk-thru on following link
http://waterheatertimer.org/Crossover.html

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

if you had a "pop" and lightning from the timer....
the water got into the electronics.
its time to replace.
getting hot.... was the cartridge either spinning dry, or spinning but not able to move water, did you have a valve off somewhere?
you might call laing or one of their distributors and see if its under warrantee.
where are you located, I can probably help you find a distributor.

I pulled the water heater out of the rv and found the one way value broken and cloged.replaced with new one $9.12 and put back together.works great.

I found the manufactures website and read this specific tech bulletin. I will be replacing or repairing my water value soon.

http://www.boschhotwater.com/Portals/7/TechBulletins/TWH-G1-25_Water_valve_rebuild_B.pdf

The bulletin said the following:
If the burners fail to go off immediately when the
water is turned off, usually due to mineralization in
the water valve on older heaters. To test for this
possiblilty, run hot water at a faucet, then shut off
the cold inlet supply and observe if the burners go
off immediately. If they do not the Aquastar will
overheat and shut down on safety depending on
the delay.