Taking macro photos

Actually this is on page 80 of your manual. Called Macro shooting, you can come as close as 2.8".
When the mode dial is on most settings, you have to press the little button above the display with the flower several times. on the display a flower should be visible. To come close to a subject, put the zoom in wide angle.
Actually, if you read it from the manual it will be very clear and saves me about half an hour typing. The menial is still available online for free.

Hi, For being up close to an object you want to put the camera in macro mode, there's a button with a flower on it, that indicates macro mode. You turn macro mode on and you're good to go for shooting photos up close to an object.

most cameras come with an option called macro,this setting is for close up shots.on your camera it needs to set at wide angle.when choosing the shooting mode move left or right and choose the icon of a flower.if you adjust the zoom, a zoom bar will appear at the top of the lcd.if you try to use a zoom not intended for macro shots the flower icon will gray out and the bar will appear yellow,if you take a picture with the yellow bar it will be blurry.if you zoom out a little until it stops you should be ok. if you use a flash in macro mode the images edges usually will darken.hope this helps.

Hi there please follow the link below for user guide & use the zoom ring or macro mode( control dial) for distance & close photo taking. Thanks.
LINK --- click here.,

With an SLR you only get true macro focussing on a lens that has proper macro focussing abilities. Unfortunately in the photogaraphy world, there are a huge number of lenses which claim to have macro ability but are stretching the term far too much.

Strictly speaking, macro means that the lens is capable of producing images on the sensor which are the same size as the actual subject or even bigger, at life size this is described as 1:1 macro. Your Tamron lens is only capable of a maximum 1:3.7 "macro", and that's only at the 200mm zoom setting with the subject no closer than 45cm from the lens. By SLR zoom lens standards, that's actually pretty good, but if you want to go closer and get greater magnification you need to either use a supplementary close-up filter lens or for better optical quality use a set of extension rings. The trade off with close up filter lenses is poor image quality and usually plenty of colour fringing and with extension rings is that if you're using a 2x magnification at 200mm, your f5-ish maximum aperture at 200mm becomes a very dark f10.

The only way to get good macro results is to either use a proper (=expensive) macro lens and excellent lighting, or use extension rings plus a good ring flash unit. However you can improve your macro by investing in a more capable zoom lens with a closer minimum focus distance and a better aperture at the telephoto end of the range. This can be expensive, or you can pick up some very cheap 35mm film SLR lenses. Using an adapter will never allow you to achieve infinity focus on a Canon digital SLR but you can get a close focussing 200mm f3.8 very cheaply. The crop factor of your smaller sensor means it will have the same angle of view as a 310mm lens but the aperture will remain at f3.8. As Canon digital SLR's have the deepest body register (lens to sensor distance) of the current systems then you'll also have the effect of using it on an extension ring. The downside is that you'll have to use the lens in a totally manual mode as no information will be communicated to your camera body. By mounting the lens back to front using a reversing ring you can achieve some really stunning macro magnifications but then you need a tripod, powerful flash and absolutely no wind... There was also a Makinon 80-200mm zoom which sells for next to nothing on auction websites, but it had a macro collar which allowed it to achieve around half size macro (1:2).

Alternatively, if the Fuji still works and does the job just keep it in your camera bag ready for those types of shots. overall, that seems the easiest and best solution unless you really want to get heavily into macro shooting.

I hope that I've helped you, please ask more if there's anything unclear. I've tried to keep a very complicated subject as simple as possible. Please also take a moment to rate my answer.

do you really need to use tohe zoom function when in macro mode? remember the lens has it limit on distance of the taken subject. Try to experiment without using the zoom and doing some distance adjustments

I will try to help you, but please understand that my experience is with Nikon film cameras. Assuming that the D60 works in a manner similar to a Nikon 35 mm body and that Sigma macro lens work like Nikon macro lens, you should be able to determine the usable subject to lens distance by experimentation. First, make sure the lens is in the macro mode. To do this you must set the auto-focus mode control to the manual focus mode (see your manual). On Nikon lenses, you must first set the focus ring to infinity, then move slider switch, which has two positions marked; "normal" and "macro., to the macro position. You should now be able to rotate the focus ring to the macro range. Use the zoom ring to zoom in and out and focus with the focus ring. The the range over which the lens to subject to lens distance will yield an in focus image will be rather limited and in the range of an inch or so to 6 or 8 inches.

hi,let me just inform u that the macro mode is only for outdoors.So on the side of the camera u will find a sliding switch.Just slide it to the opposite direction to turn off the macro mode.Since u wanted to take pictures of jewelry pieces,turn on the flash if u have one and then take a closeup shot with good lighting conditions.If its too bright then use only the flash,if u r not satisfied with the quality then use only lights and then take a pic.Still face any prob plz get back to me.

Hi, you should have a macro lens shoot mode ( button with flower picture on reverse of camera) which allows you to take pictures close up in detail.

A common problem is that you have some 3.2 Megapixel (MP) and that image is all of 640x480 or 0.3072 M. That means you could move back from the camera, shoot at 3.2 MP then crop out a 640x480 image that may be in focus.