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Number 2)
PLEASE don't 'fiddle about' with the cooker if you don't know about electrics. There are VERY high powerand DANGEROUS electric cables in there ! This is Nothing like a low power Stereo or TV BE CAREFUL !!!!
Number 3)
I am not familiar with this top but it seems from the diagrams that it just drops in to a base unit that contains the fan unit.somehow. I don't see any screws in the surface of the top so TURN OFF THE POWER COMPLETELY take out by lifting the edges ; the whole thing and work on it from underneath to access the electrics..
These diagrams below will show you all you need to do the job. READ THEM THOROUGHLY BEFORE you start.
PLEASE BE CAREFUL with Electrical wiring. !!! I cant stress enough
I read it and it's on replacing but the top comes out.
Gloves are a good idea too. Cut power at the breaker.
unless easy access to the wiring/plug.
Hope this helps you.
Have a good evening.
Hello there I will answer this in 2 sections for testing the burners and the thermostate
Surface Burner Testing:
In order to test the surface burner on your electric range, the following steps should be taken:
Before repairs or testing can begin you must disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel, at the circuit breaker panel, or by pulling the plug. Make sure the power is off before proceeding. A jolt from 220 volts can be fatal, use caution!
Remove the surface burner from the stovetop. On most electric
ranges this can be done by pulling the burner up and out of its plug-in
receptacle. Other models have the burner directly wired to the cooktop.
To remove this type of burner, undo the screw that secures the burner to
the cooktop, remove the clips that secure the insulators to the burner terminals, and carefully unscrew the wires from the terminals. Take care not to bend these terminals.
Visually inspect the burner - often there will be small holes or bubbles on the surface of a defective element.
Now that you have removed the burner, you can test it using your VOM. Using the ohmmeter function, set the range scale to R x 1 and touch the test leads to the two burner terminals. The VOM should show continuity.
Typical burner readings should be somewhere between 19 and 115 ohms,
depending on the range manufacturer. If there is no continuity, the
burner is defective. To test for a grounded (or shorted) burner, place
one test lead on the outside surface of the burner and the other test
lead on each burner terminal in turn. If there is continuity at either
terminal, the burner is defective.
If the burner is defective, replace with a new one by reversing the
removal procedure (step 2 above). If replacing a wired-in burner, make
sure that you install the wires on the correct terminals, according to
the wiring diagram
Oven Thermostat Testing:
An oven thermostat is a switch that opens and closes in response to the temperature
it senses. It is typically found in the control panel, where a
liquid-filled temperature-sensing bulb senses and maintains the internal
oven temperature by cycling heat on and off.
Before repairs or testing can begin you must disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel, at the circuit breaker panel, or by pulling the plug. Make sure the power is off before proceeding. A jolt from 220 volts can be fatal, use caution!
Access the oven thermostat, which is located in different places depending on the make and model:
On freestanding ranges, access the thermostat by removing the screws that hold the back panel in place at both ends.
On models with front-loading controls, remove the panel and
tilt it for access. Be careful not to let the wires disconnect from
their components.
Some built-in models have a removable backsplash. Lift the
backsplash, rest it on the cook top and remove the screws from the
backsplash, which holds the rear panel.
On wall ovens or eye-level ranges, access the control panel
by opening the door and removing the screws that secure it. The screws
may be under the exhaust hood or below the control panel. If the control
panel is hinged, simply tilt it towards you.
On some models both the rear and front control panels must be
removed. The screws may be found on the trim and occasionally the trim
must be removed.
When testing the thermostat switch contacts for continuity, refer to the wiring diagram and remove only those wires being tested - and only one pair at a time. Test switch contact terminals
as per your wiring diagram. If the switch lacks continuity at any of
the contact terminal points then the entire thermostat switch needs to
be replaced.
Adjusting the thermostat:
Test the oven temperature by placing the tester in the oven's
center and leaving it for 30 minutes at 350 degrees. Record the minimum
and maximum temperatures of three cycles, then add those figures
together, divide the result by six and you have the oven's average
temperature.
If the average temperature is more than 25 degrees off, try
calibrating the thermostat by following your appliance manual
instructions for thermostat calibration.
hi friend, There are a few things to check for. Make sure the electrode ( the small metal piece that the spark comes off from ) is clean and the holes in the burner are clean, use a pin or paper clip to clean out the burner holes and NOT a tooth pick as these can break off and make things worse. Example of a burner. The next thing to check for are the ignition switches under the surface control knobs, the switches can twist and break and keep the spark module on and the spark keeps "clicking" even when the burner is light. If every thing looks good, you may have a bad spark module, replace it. Sometimes cleaning can get moisture into the surface switches, try drying them with an hair dryer to see of this will help.
it sounds like it is the spark module that's making the clicking noise. normally there are 4-6 wires that connect to it , and if you are not comfortable making the repair yourself then I would call an appliance repair company.The part should cost 30-50 $ Good luck
hope this helps u
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regards sivaranjini
Sounds like a thermal switch which controls the hot surface light is stuck closed.
If this is a new unit, I'd return it. If not, I would check the switche(s) for the hot surface light -- when the unit is cold, unplug one wire going to the thermal switch and check it for electrical continuity. If you get current from a multi-meter through the switch, replace it -- it's not opening when it cools down.
I had a similar problem and discovered that the control knob had fried itself, most likely due to liquid penetration down the shaft of the control knob and into the control knob electronics. Inside is a printed circuit board with resistor, diode and a rheostat.The surface of the board was charred beyond repair. To trouble shoot the problem, open the cook top and hook the burner in question to one of the known good control knobs.If it ignites, then it is the control knob electronics.If it doesn’t, then there is something wrong with the igniter. Note: The 2-zone Wok Burner had a different control knob that the other burners. To open the cook top, do NOT loosen any of the Phillips screws on the sides.Here are the instructions from the user manual: Disassembly Shut off gas supply, disconnect the manifold pipe, disconnect the electrical power. Remove pan supports, burner heads and burner rings. Remove control knobs. In the event that the hob is built in, undo the bracket clamps underneath the work surface. Lift the hob on to the work surface. Unscrew the venturis on the high-speed and super high-speed burners using a 20 mm wrench. Lift and remove the burner rings and burner base plates. Disconnect the wires from the ignition plugs. Keep the wire from dropping into the undertray by inserting it in one of the slots in the burner supports. Remove the three screws securing the dual ring wok burner. Remove the wok burner base plate. Lift the ceramic tray from the hob. Note: Each regulator shaft is equipped with a black ring. This ring may cling to the rubber seal in the ceramic tray. Check and remove the rings from the rubber seals. To order parts, call 1-800-245-8215, 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM EST
Sure, I meant to get a copy of the schematic last night so that I could send it to you with the changes. I'll get it tonight and send it to you along with the info I have now. The only thing that will be different is that you won't have independent controls of the dual element burner. For me that was fine cause my wife and I never use just the smaller burner but rather always both. The part #1009577 from repair clinic.com is an infinite switch which is already being used in the cook top for the largest burner or if not (cause I actually didn't look) for sure it is used in the JEC9536, just the wider model. This part is rated from 8.9 - 11.0 amps or 2,640 watts, when you hook the two burners together I believe it adds up to 3,000 watts so the infinite switch (the biggest I could locate) is slightly under sized. However, I felt most things especially electrical, are over engineered for safety any ways. When you remove the circuit board you will have to drill out the two slots where the two mounting screws will secure the new switch, or you can do what I did and stick a screw driver in the slots and stretch them slightly (very easy to do). You'll need to find two screws that fit the new switch for mounting ( not too long, if your not sure take one off one of the other infinite switches and match it up). I'll have to get back with you on the wiring, it is rather simple though, most of the connections are the same as the other infinite switches. The grainger.com part number 2FBT6 is just a snap action thermal switch that will replace the thermal sensor that went to the circuit board to light up the hot surface indicator. I tried to use the existing sensor but the hot surface indicator lamp stays lit, so I figured that the sensor was probably a 0-10volt or 4-20mAmp switch that the circuit board monitored and turned on the hot surface indicator accordingly. That is a simple hook up also, however, I have not installed that yet cause I did not find out about the thermal sensor not working for the hot surface indicator until after I put in the infinite switch. Tonight I will install it and let you know what wires go where along with a marked up schematic, maybe even photos if you would like.
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