I had said that the lights do not come on. Is there a fuse of any kind. I cn't imagine that there is no failsafe for a machine running with no water supply.
Heater element probably blown. This provides a resistance but goes open cicuit if not heating water as tem. goes up too high or the thermoststat has blown check both
I found the service manual and will both the element and thermostat tomorrow. Thanks
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SOURCE: LG WM3677HW Won't turn ON.
Ok try this .
You say you know your way around electric. Here is the service manual incl drawings.
LINK
SOURCE: Program Selector Knob keeps turning
when the knob keeps turning, it is giving you a code by the blinking red light. count the blinks. i have a manual to explain what the codes mean and how to test the parts
SOURCE: No power running to SERVIS washing machine
Try disconnecting the heater element first and see what happens if still same unplug motor and try again, it is a process of elimination.
Plz rate solution.
Thanks.
SOURCE: Hotpoint topload washing machine won't water won't stop running.
washer top load will not stop filling even when turned off
SOURCE: My fuse from the controller keep getting blown out.
With all due respect, there is some rather incorrect information in your response Jidza.
These washers are direct-drive and do not have any transmission, nor does the motor "spin backwards during extract". I think you are confusing a Fisher Paykel machine with conventional motor-driven washers. The "motor" is not a self-contained unit, it is really a "drive unit" consisting of a stationary stator/RPS sensor and rotor that either spins in a circular motion to drive the basket for the extract cycle, or it will "pulsate" to mimick the action of a transmission for the agitate cycle. There is no belt or gears or any of that. It's a brilliant design that eliminates many of the moving parts on the typical American washing machine.
With that said, in regards to the original post, the diverter valve, water pump and water inlet valves all are possibilities for a popped fuse in the controller, as well as a fault in the circuitry in the controller itself. Visual inspection of the pump or a simple continuity test is not enough. You need to check the specific resistance of the coil for the water pump, as it can be out of spec and cause the control to fail.
Some of the other experts do not approve when some of us suggest that obtaining a service manual would be the best cause of action but in this case it is warranted. These machines are not like "conventional" washers, they are, for the most part, electronic in nature and proper understanding of the circuits involved in the various cycles and functions makes servicing them much easier and your chances of sucess in repairing them much greater. You can obtain a detailed service manual for the GWL11 here:
http://www.fisherpaykelparts.net/ecart/category.php?category_id=53
My answer is not intended to insult anyone, I'm trying to help the original poster.
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