When I hook up the adaptor to the tap to fill the washer it doesn't seal properly. I have tried everything...switching things around, new washers etc...nothing works. What do I do or where can I buy a new complete adaptor..?
I found the problem to be the tap nozzle that was supplied when I bought the washer, it didn't work at all. I ended up going to Home Depot and picking up another one, it has been working well since then.
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Another problem could be the inlet solenoid is failing to close properly, this could be caused by either an obstruction in the sealing part of the solenoid valve, a damaged or worn out seal or if the water pressure is too low. (some solenoids require water pressure to close off properly). To test this idea turn off the taps when not in use. If the water is still filling the tub, the back flow / syphoning idea may be valid. Also just to rule the idea out, turn off the tap to the machine and remove the inlet hose, if the tap "drips" this "trickle" of water maybe the culprit. If turning off the inlet tap fixes the problem you may need to replace the inlet solenoid.
g'day, sounds like the leak is coming from the hose - this is because the leak is occurring when its off. Check seals on hose at the back of machine. You can always find old sets of hoses as well (or buy them), so you can try swapping them over.
Keep in mind, with washing machine hoses (like gardening hoses), the seal is at the rubber washers not the thread on the tap... so plumbers tap will not stop a leak, it will hinder the seal.
An alternative solution is simply turn tap's off between washes...
You might try opening all faucets and outside silcocks after main shut off valve to make sure you aren't just pulling a partial vacumn which can cause some water to be trapped in pipes and very slowly leak out.Thank you.
Try a product called PET-SEAL it is used in the vintage bike restoration game, Remove tap and sender unit ,Clean Tank thoroughly running water through the tank for a couple of hours, then dry the tank thoroughly ( A hair dryer is very good for this )
It is best to leave the tank in a warm place overnight to make sure it is properly dry. seal up the tap and sender holes. Take the PET -SEAL cans and mix together One is the hardener. Pour the PET-SEAL into the tank, put cling film over the filler cap and close, then swish the tank round, upside down, right way up , swish the PET-SEAL liquid all over the inside of the tank, keep swishing until the liquid goes off and starts to dry (Hard work as it is a heavy tank ). Leave the tank for 24 - 48 hours, build back up with the tap and sender unit. Fill with fuel and Bobs your Uncle.
Check first if leaking from hoses or under the machine. Undo your taps, check that the hoses rubber seals haven't worn out. Replace rubber seals, most hardware plumbing sections have them. Also if the actual tap is leaking at the wall, you will have to change the tappets. You will need to close your main water at the timer, then undo the actual knobs, depending on the tap. Once opened take out tappets and replace with copper ones rather than plastic. Then put all back together and switch water on and check if leaking. In case it is the washing machine, try to replace hose or the connector on the back of machine. Make sure also all rubber seals are replaced with new ones. If under machine you will need a plumber. See how you go!
E10 is a timeout code. I found the answer on google by refining my search criteria. The tap was not turned on enough for the washer to fill up in time before the timeout was reached. After restarting the washer and turning the tap on further, the washer cycle completed without error.