How do access the main motor of the linx BH50010

Check and see if there is a reset button for the vacuum head this trips sometime to protect the head motor. Also if the roller heads bind they can snap the belt if it is belt driven. If it is direct drive then I would look for the trip or reset button.

Unplug, cut hair on rollers and pull to clean. Remove dust bag and use a bent hanger to pull out the clog from the intake tube, most likely there is paper caught in the hair.

To remove the fan, you need to remove the front grill. Unscrew the 4 screws on the corner of the grill, then remove the grill. The fan can be removed by just pulling on the hub. The fan motor is attached to the machine by two nuts that face the back of the machine. So you need to remove the guts of the machine to unscrew the nuts.

To remove the fan motor, you need unscrew the screw that is above the AC plug, to remove the back grill, then remove the filter plate. Once that is removed, you need to remove four screws that holds the lower plate that houses the AC plug. Once that plate is unscrewed, then disconnect the power conector from the main board and then the green ground lug to free the AC plug.

You will need to remove the main board. To do that, you will need to disconnect the keypad/display connector. It the one that looks like a telephone RJ connector, its located near middle of the main board. Next, you need to unlatch the red wire that runs down from the main board to the front of the machine. Once that is undone, then the alunimum chasis that hold the main board can be slid backwards giving you access to unbolt the two nuts that hold the fan motor.

Hope this helps you.

Yes you can run the furnace with out the electronic air cleaner for awhile.... It you are in a very dusty conditions than I would not run it very long a day or two....because you will not have any protection for dirty getting stuck on the evaporator coil or if you have a 90% gas furnace the secondary heat exchanger...and restricting air flow.... You can put in a 1" pleated air filter the same size as the total of the two cells in place of the cells till you can get the electronic working..... Sounds like either something big is caught across the cell plate or they are still wet and have not dryed out completely. Hope this helps.

Remove the front grid. Pull firmly but gently on the fan blades to remove them from the shaft. Turn the machine on its back, open front facing up. Use a light household oil (sewing machine, hair clipper, or 3-in-1) and squirt a small amount down the shaft, turning the shaft as you do so. You may need to do this several times, until you can feel the shaft move freely. If this doesn't help, your only option is to use the machine as a $100 trade-in credit for an upgrade. The new company, Vollara, is no longer manufacturing nor repairing the Breeze. (1-800-989-2299) Some dealers may still have Breezes in stock, and some may also have parts, but you'd have to locate them yourself.

behind the front panel fingerboard on each side there is a screw hidden. You have to very slightly and gently with a fine bladed knife pry up those left and right sides to expose the screw. Its a thin piece of plastic covering the screen. Be very careful because there are electronics imbedded in the fingerpad that you are prying up. Gently lift the sticky covering only enough to get to the screws. It can be done but be careful.

It is normal to hear occasional snapping from your Electronic Air Cleaner. This occurs when larger particles are caught by the ionizer wires. Continuous snapping is not normal however, and should be investigated as outlined below: Please note that the metal electronic cells may have some sharp edges; use care when handling the cells. Wear gloves to protect your hands from being cut if needed. Remove both electronic cells. Make sure that there is no hair, dirt, sand or any debris on the bottom inside the Electronic air cleaner. If there is, remove what you can by hand. If a lot of debris is left in bottom of the Air Cleaner, you may want to use a vacuum attachment to see if you can vacuum up what you can. Do not vacuum the Pre-filter or Post filter this may damage it. Close the access door, and then turn on the Electronic Air Cleaner and the system fan. If the snapping continues with the cells removed, contact your heating and cooling contractor for service on the unit and turn off the Electronic Air Cleaner’s power. If snapping does not continue, make sure the electronic cells are clean, dry and properly installed. Inspect the electronic cells for bent collector plates, broken wires between the plates, dirt on the insulators, and damaged collector contact tabs located on the top of the cells. Make sure the pre-filters are in good condition and are in the cabinet slot farthest from the furnace (The order of the Electronic Air Cleaner Filters are from the return duct to the furnace is: Pre-Filter, electronic cell, and then Post filter, if your Electronic Air Cleaner has one). If the snapping persists and you are unable to locate any physical cause, please contact your heating and cooling contractor for service on the unit and turn off power to the Electronic Air Cleaner.

I tried that solution and it did not work due to the worn bushing. I went on line to CSH incorporated and ordered #534 Open Ventilation Fan & Blower Duty motor. The motor is a ball bearing motor rather than bushing, and is an exact replacement for the Fasco motor on the original. The repair is easy and a cheap repair at cost of about $67 dollars for the motor plus shipping. The unit now works great again.
Robert

080204 FixUp EQ air blog remarks

To remove fan blade you need to obtain a thin strong probe, such as a Scratch Awl for wood, that will fit without binding, into the cruciform spaces around the plastic collar. Gently insert into space of plastic collar and lever against the spring metal retaining clamp; getting started may require a bit of force, so be careful to adjust and gauge your efforts. The process is to move clamp in small increments, one side then the other, up the collar until clamp is free to remove.

The collar will still be tight, so if you can form your hands into a gear puller form with your finger tips between the fan blades under to the solid portion of the fan ring, pushing thumbs against the Spindle and lifting in as quick a jerk as you can manage to get it moving. Once moving it should be removed easily enough.

The electric motors have two bearing surfaces, one front one back. Both need to be addressed.

I like Breakfree or similar that acts like minor solvent / major lubricator with good thermal properties. The solvent aspect helps clean out unwanted particles and/or old dried lube. The new lubrication is heavy enough to hold up for at least a year; so yearly checking should be scheduled.

On other brands with heavier motors, I've tried greases when I've stripped down the motors even further. So far I've discovered a heavier lube can be hard on start up and need more time at slower speeds until unit warms up.

Something like WD40 is good for penetration and flushing, but IMO too light for sustained duty. There is a lot of spinning and heat over a year's time.

I just torn down a couple of F1's. They've been doing well for a couple of years. But with all air filters/ purifiers, they REQUIRE periodic maintenance. [Had my biggest laugh reading complaints about Oreck air filters; people NEVER cleaned them and complained when they failed.]
Yes, all these small electrical motors will eventually need lubrication, I recommend before 2 years, as one of mine had a frozen (lack of lube) motor in that time.

If you get into the back to try to get at the rear bearing, you may find that you might be considering a more thorough cleaning (I noticed a bit of corrosion). If you do and if that means taking more stuff apart to clean, be well advised of the time involved and the number of wires needing displacement, especially the electronic wire connectors at the front to the circuit board.
So, get a digital camera and take clear pictures (and check them!) Before and During take apart as well as a couple of paper notes about wire runs and placement. I have even used paint pens to letter/number info to the unit.

Your fan motor probably needs additional maintenance, in the way of lubrication.

After removing the unit from power, access the Fan blade and spin with finger. If there is any resistance to note then the spindle running through 2 bearing surfaces needs lubrication.

See the other question/answer to fan removal - motor lube.

If you have any sort of humidity to contend with and have a FreshAir model F1 or earlier different type, they seem to have some corrosion problems after a period of a couple years.

It is just a function of the machine/job that necessitates such maintenance.