Question about Fisher and Paykel GWL11 Top Load Washer
At the beginning of the wash cycle on the "hot" setting, hot water will start to fill the tub. After about 2 minutes when the tub starts to fill, the water is cold.
THERMISANCE IS BAD AJUSTEMENT NEEDED BY QUALIFIED PERSONNAL LIKE IRON TEMPERATUR CONTROLLER
Posted on Oct 26, 2014
Assuming you have already done what you said you have done, now it is time to do some real troubleshooting.(Dont worry, if you have gone this far you'll be able to do what I'm going to tell you)
First take the lid off. To do this, open it, and lift up on one side, it should come right off. Now take the control panel cover off. There are two screws on the back side of the washer holding it on. You'll need to wiggle it a bit to get it off. Once the cover is off you should find a plastic bag with a "service" sheet in it. The service sheet explain how to put the machine into the "Test Mode". This is very easy to do and will allow you to check out all functions. One of the test, allows you to check the cold water inlet valve. Assuming your water pressure is good and you have indeed cleaned the screen filter going into the machine you will most likely find that the cold water valve is not opening all the way and will need to be replaced. If your handy with a phillips screwdriver you only have two more screws to take out and the valve assembly will come right out.
Don't think you can swap out the hot water valve with the cold water valve. Fisher Paykel, clever as they are made sure you can't do that. One is a proportional valve and the other is a digital valve. They both look identical but they are not!
If your going to do the repair yourself (you've come this far, why not see it through to conclusion), be sure when you call Fisher/Paykel to order the cold water inlet valve that you give them the serial number of your machine to be sure you get the correct part.
Posted on Jan 27, 2009
you can swap the hot and cold valves over and see if this fixes the problem as it sound like your cold valve is faulty but not the hot valve.
Posted on Mar 25, 2009
As nice as these machines are, I've read bad things about Fisher & Paykel reliability. It sounds to me like you have a bad solenoid.
FYI, you should leave the water lines on (both hot and cold) all the time, no need to shut them off unless you're unhooking the machine to move it or work on it. The machine should control the temperature itself.
Posted on Jun 14, 2009
The washer is detecting error while it enters wash cycle. You can try and enter the diagnostic mode & check if it resolves the issue. If it doesn't then you would need check for the fault codes.
To enter Diagnostic Mode turn the power on at the power point and off at the console. Press and hold the WASH TEMPERATURE DOWN then press the POWER button. Smartdrive will give 2 short beeps. Phase 1 & 2 Only press ADVANCE button once. From Diagnostic mode press the SPIN buttons until the HOLD and SLOW SPIN LEDs are on, (Diagnostic mode level 3). The WASH PROGRESS LEDs will now display the fault code.
Hope this helps... Please post back if you need further assistance.
Posted on Apr 01, 2011
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