We're does the white battery go

Hi there.

15 amp. Also remember there is a reason why the fuse is not working. Goodluck ..

You have a short in your system. It could be as simple as a light staying on somewhere in the car, ceiling, ashtray, rear reading lights, and the all time favorite the trunk light that tends to be the biggest culprit. Check in your cigarette lighter and charging ports, something may be in there causing this problem. When battery is charged and you shut off your car go around and check that all lights are out. When you open your trunk the light always comes on, but if you reach in and it's very hot (BE VERY CAREFUL HOT IF IT'S BEEN ON) . One bulb ON can kill the battery in a few hours. Also I forgot to ask did you have any work done to your car prior to this problem, there may be some pinched wires involved. GOOD LUCK FREIND.

I don't know the final solution but do want to brainstorm with you so you are not alone in the fixing process....

White Westinghouse Dehumidifier - Model Number >>> ????

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/brands-products/White-westinghouse-Parts/Dehumidifier-Parts

Sears is your friend here. They often have blow-up diagrams of how these units work. Just find your model number and look at the parts diagram if you can find it. 9/10 Sears has given me the answer through their online manuals.

Post your answer if you've figured it out.

Usually a mild cleanser is all you should need. In some extreme examples you to clean the contact area and the contact itself for ptting, and then lightly rub the mesh with 600 grit finishing paper to break up the silica that may have formed.

Ozone itself is a power oxidizer, it will clean the air in an enclosed room. Excessive Ozone "can" be a problem that usually manifests itself as upper respiratory irritation. Lower levels oxidize with pollutants and you never know it's there.

Ozone will also attack eurethane foams, foam rubber, and elastic rubber. So speaker surrounds usually decompose, and headliners in cars often fall apart about 6 months after exposure-used car dealers use them a great deal to kill residual tar and soot from smokers.

The only other light I'm aware of is the light in the back of the machine attached to the radio frequency ionizer. This light lets you know that both of the ionizers including the needle point ionizer are working. When the light is off, it means the ionizers need cleaning or service. When I clean my machines, I always clean off both ionizers w/ a 50/50 solution of Ammonia w/ a paper towel. I do this the same time I clean the ozone plate. If you're machine is still under the 3 year warranty, you can send it back to be fixed for no charge except shipping. I hope this helps.

Hi, Elizabeth! Here's all the contact information Iconic Pro:

Ionic Pro
P.O. Box 4134, Los Angeles, CA, 90048
Customer Service: 800.875.8577
Website: www.ionicpro.com

Hope this helps you to contact them.

The reason for flashing or surging or a change of settings is usually a loose component.

1. Make sure all components are inserted firmly and correctly. The RCI cell (honeycomb/UV light) must be seated in both ends and turned firmly, like installing a fluorescent light bulb.

2. The 4" white ceramic/screen plate must be inserted into the tracks, top and bottom. The contact fingers must be pressing firmly on the screen part of the plate.

3. The cord must be inserted firmly into the socket in the back of the machine.

If this does not solve the problem, then the computerized system may be malfunctioning. This is something the company will need to address. Call Vollara (new name for EcoQuest) 800-989-2299 and ask for repairs. They

You don't. Tech support is no help. It is trash.

Wiping it off won't clean the filter. I submerse mine in hot soapy water ( oxiclean w/any favorite multipurpose liquid cleaner.Let it air dry completely before placing it back in unit.I have tried the dishwasher method and it didn't clean it.I also thoroughly wash all crevices of the unit.If red light doesn't go off, reclean the filter(s). It has all ways worked for me.

Check the capacitors. There are two to look for, one on the motor, the other on the PC controller board. 
STEP ONE: Unplug the unit and support it on a table. 

STEP TWO: remove the controller board from the exhaust side of the unit by unscrewing the screws holding the cover to the unit. Unplug the motor wire harness by pressing down on the white retaining clip. They go only one way, but it doesn’t hurt to note which is which. 

STEP THREE: Unbolt the ground wire from the face plate and the whole board should come out. Unscrew the four screws holding the PC board. Look for a little foam pad that will drop out. Remember where to replace it. Screws and capacitor may have blue locktite on them. 

STEP FOUR: Find the capacitor. It’s the part that looks like a tootsie roll, black with two wires coming out one side. It’s between the CPU chip and the big red square block. If it looks bloated, burnt or melted, you found the problem. Replace it with a 1000 microfarad (1000 uf/ 10 volt) ten volt capacitor with a radial lead. About $5 for the part at most electronic parts stores. Careful desoldering the old capacitor to avoid damaging the PC board. WATCH THE POLARITY. There is a negative and positive side. The negative side has a chevron (<) mark and is marked on the PC board. On mine the negative side was nearest the black micro chip and the positive side was towards the red JEFU MPE part. Use a little bolt-tite on the screws of the PC board and some on the capacitor on the PC board to limit vibration. Reinstall the board, plug it in and give it a whirl. 

If no joy, STEP FIVE: Find the motor start capacitor. It is bolted near the motor, black about 1x 2 x 4 and has two red wires coming out of it. Take a battery operated resistance meter on a setting of R x 100 or higher. Charge the capacitor by connection one lead of the tester to one red wire and the other lead to the second red wire. You may have to strip the wire to make contact. Next reverse the leads and you should see the needle jump. Do it a third time incase the first try was discharging. If no needle jumping, replace capacitor. Couldn’t find this locally. May have to by directly from JET Tools. L

Recommend you hard crimp wire splices if cutting off the motor capacitor. .  You can check the windings on the motor too. Check for continuity between the white-yellow-blue-black wires of the motor harness. Any combination should work. If not, motor shot, time for some bigger bucks nrepair.
 
Hope this helps.