Why does the kicker CX1200.1 have no fuses and how then do you determine what fuse to use for the battery connection?

SOURCE: kicker zr600 smokin havent even bumped yet today

Hi as an ex Kicker repair engineer for the UK's main Kicker distributor I am completely familiar with this amplifier! The advice I am going to give you must be carried out by a competent engineer. Chances are that the power supply mosfets are all shorted & this is where the smoke will have emanated from, this will be obvious by the appearance of the mosfets being "charred" & possibly black "Witness" marks on the pcb. There are 6 of them, 3 either side carrying the prefixes: Q43, 44 45 & Q 47, 48 & 49. If when checked with an ohm meter they are found to be short, all will need to be replaced. The following components can be used: RFG70N06 or HUF7343G. However before this is done a couple of other checks must be carried out first. Remove all 6 offending mosfets, power the amp. up on the bench & use an oscilloscope to check the pulse width modulator waveforms coming from pins 11 & 14 of U7 (PWM i.c, SGS3525) both waveforms should be identical. If there is no output then this component will need to be replaced. Now check the following resistors with an ohm meter: R92, 93 & 94 + R99, 100 & 101, they should each read 47 ohms, any that are open circuit must be replaced. These resistors are critical as they feed the mosfets with the waveform generated by the PWM i.c to produce a working power supply, necessary to generate the correct voltage rails needed to make the amp. work. When you are satisfied all is ok then you can replace all of the mosfets as detailed earlier, before powering up again though 1 further check will be required. Using the ohm meter again check all of the output transistors for short circuits, there are 16 of them & are identified by the following prefixes: Q13 - Q16 (TIP35C), Q17 - Q20 (TIP36C) & Q33 - Q36 (TIP35C) + Q37 - Q40 (TIP36C) if any are found short circuit between any of their pins they will need replacing. This amp must be protected by 3 x 30 Amp fuses (90 Amps) & the in line fuse feeding the Amp. power cable should include the same rated fuse. If you manage to repair this ok make sure the installed cable is has a large enough cross section to supply this current, if it does not chances are this was the cause of the mosfets blowing in the first place. All the best! acbva.

Posted on Mar 04, 2010

SOURCE: KICKER KX350.4 sound fading in and out

Does the amp continue to go into protection if you disconnect the speaker wires from the speaker terminals?

Posted on Apr 15, 2008

Tygh Duval

• 300 Answers

SOURCE: green light turns red on hard notes with kicker 750 mono amp

First off, never, ever replace a blown fuse with a bigger one (especially one that is almost twice as big) unless it's an absolute emergency. Most of the time, the reason a fuse blows is because of a problem with the device (in this case, the amp). By installing a larger fuse, there's a very good chance the problem will become permanent (i.e. busted amp).

The amp could be going into an overcurrent mode when the bass hits and power cycling itself to try and reset the problem. If this is the case, take it to a local electronics repair shop and see what they can do.

It's also possible the input voltage to the amp is dropping too low during the bass hit, making the amp restart. Try putting a 1.0F or higher capacitor on the battery to buffer the power during the bass hits.

Posted on Mar 16, 2009

SOURCE: i think i blew a

The fuse should be in line with the live power cable that goes from the amp to the car battery. You should be able to replace it by buying a new fuse that matches the blown fuse. You will take out the blown fuse (usually within 2 feet of the car battery) and replace it with the new one.

Posted on Mar 06, 2011

SOURCE: my kicker zx300.1 amp keeps

open the amp up an see if u see anyhting burned on the inside next to ur fuse holder

Posted on Jun 22, 2011