How much are brake pads for 2003 V.W Beetle Bug (1-546595 front pads

SOURCE: front brake pads

Just did this tonight... 7/21/08

You need a torx head T-55 Star Socket to remove the caliper bolt(s) and a large 3/4 in preferably with a 1/2 dr and large breaker bar or torque wrench with a 1/2 in dr. to remove the knuckle bolts. I should've taken pictures, but I did not. After studying this exact issue for an hour or so, I finally got everything to click. Steps as I proceeded. Loosen the top caliper nut using the T-55 torx bit, this will take some doing, if possible, use a breaker bar or something comparable, I used a standard 3/8 in. socket wrench and about a foot long hollow metal tube on the end as the breaker and after some muscle work (ouch!!) got it loose. Now there are 2 bolts that hold the caliper in place that need to come out. I used a 3/4 in socket on a 1/2 breaker bar to get these to break. I don't have the exact torque specs to put these back on, but I went about 40lbs on the knuckle bolts and closer to 80lbs on the caliper torx head screw. Once you have the caliper torx head bolt loose and the other 2 nuts off, you can rotate the caliper. Using a C-Clamp, compress the caliper so that it is completely compressed. Now, remove the torx head bolt and the pad assembly will swing out, at this point, you can remove the old pads and clips if you are replacing them as well. Reverse the order for installation using Lock-tite and the caliper grease you get from the parts store. I hope I don't have to mention removing the tires, using jack stands and being completely safe under there. Good Luck. The first side took me about 3 hours considering time and studying, the second side took about half an hour after already knowing what to do.. It gets easier each time you do it.

So far, I have replaced 2 fuel pumps (at home) first one took about 7 hours, second time around, only took about 2 hours. Front and Rear brake jobs. numerous small items, now I'm looking at a blinker switch (problem with left turn signal... rapid click, no light).. Also, the dash panel either needs repaired or replaced as the fuel gage is constantly up and down. If you or someone else has a suggestion here, I would appreciate it.

Thanks and remember... Practice Safe "Do it yourself"..!

SOURCE: 2003 Ford E250 Remove/replace front brake pads

You will have to take the wheel off, then try to use a latge screw driver to pry between the old pads and the rotor to push the old pads back some, this will allow you to remove the caliper easier later. Next get a T-45 socket and remove both the top and bottom bolts from the back of the caliper. Tilt the brake caliper at the top or the bottom (it different for both side), and slide it off. Then you can just remove the pads. Be careful to notice that the shims on the caliper slide are different from top to bottom, don't mix them up. Pull the caliper slide pins out and inspect the boot for hole or cracks and the pins for rust, replace if any of these condition exist. Use some brake silicone grease to lube the slide pins and put a little into each boot and put the slide pins back in. Check the rubber boots on the caliper pistions to make sure they are not leaking any fluid or ripped. Use one of the old brake pads and a C-clamp to push both pistons on one caliper back in until they are flush. Check to make sure that no fluid leaked out of the caliper pistons while they were being pushed back in. If you want to do what is call a pad slap only then you can install that pads at this time but that is not recommended. It is recommened that you measure, check and turn the rotors if at all possible or replace them, the wheel seals and check and repack the wheel bearings.

SOURCE: front brake pads & rotors on 2003 buick park avenue

first you put the car on stands and and then you take the two bolts out in back of the caliper and remove the caliper and then remove the pin in the center of the rotor and the nut and then take the rotor off and do not forget to repack the bearing with grease and then put it back together take one side apart at a time.just in case you need to take a look at how it goes back together

SOURCE: replace front brake pad 2003 toyota 4 runner

Diagram is unnecessry.
Pull both front wheels
Work one at a time leaving the other for reference
Find the retention spring ... its a paperclip thickness wire spring... dislodge center retention loop and undo from both ends which engage brake pad retention rods.
Pull the rods out
Pull the old pads out... laying everything on the ground
Use scrap wooden wedges to pry between the rotor and the caliper ...inside and out until the calipers are fully withdrawn. Use the new pads to measure if they are far enough back.
Note... the brake fluid will have dropped in the master cylinder over many months of wear... do not fill it. When the calipers are pushed back they will fill the reservoir again... one wheel at a time.
Be sure to identify the correct pad based on what you took out and what is on the other side (if you screwed up the layout)
Make sure to take the old antisqueek backing plate from the old pad and place it on the new pad. They don't use lubricant on these anymore.
Replace the pads... the retention rods... then the retention spring
Do the other side
Then progressively step on the brake peddle until full tension is felt
Check the master cylinder reservoir... probably needs no additional fluid.
New pads will register in existing ridges in each disc in no time at all.
You should check the discs to see if they need to be replaced during this operation...using some calipers

SOURCE: front brakes make noise when applied after installing new pads.

it could be because they are dirty. also the noise could be the back brakes. if its a squeaking noise it could be that they are dirty or that they are cheep brake pads and for the first couple of weeks they squeak. also when you got your breaks changed did the break shop cut the rotors because that cleans them up and makes the rotors like new.