I cant get it to open up/work

ground saturation-if no water lines run through there

it can be done as most what is termed "marble" products is polished concrete
talk with a masonry business as to how it is done but from what I have seen it will be a lot of "elbow" work with out power tools

Figure 1 90 lb. bag per square ft., 6" deep.
Don't forget sand to grade and rebar to reinforce.
You probably won't find enough guys to mix all that concrete, so you'd really be better off hiring a concrete truck.
Tip: It's best to over estimate a little so you won't be caught short.

did you ever try to mix water with oil? what was the result? are you sure that you can cross the street without adult holding your hand?

unfortunately you need to remove all that paint, just drop few shovels of fine sand over, and scrape it... sand will adhere to the tp surface of the pain and will allow you to scrape it. after you scrape it off, use any degreaser or similar product to wash reminder off, leave it for few weeks to dry through and then in small patch try if it would accept latex pain, roll it very, very thinly and leave overnight, if it is dry (solid dry) after 24hrs and do not peel off, you can then use this paint on the rest of your garage floor.

now, i would advice strongly against painting garage floor with any paint except concrete paint (they are usually water based with strongly alcalic ph), and after that use concrete seal. this should give you long lasting surface, sealed from oils, dust, water and whatever contaminant you can imagine in the garage.

It seems possible that moisture may be building up under the hood of your car and forming around the coils and plug wires. You might try leaving the hood up when parked in the garage for a couple of days to see if this helps fix the problem. If this helps go to your parts store and buy a can of spray ignition sealer and spray on top and bottoms of plug wires and boots, then the tops only of your ignition coils. do this only when the engine is cold and not running Let the spray dry completely before starting your car. If you still have a moisture problem coming from your garage floor you might want to have your vehicle undercoated to stop it from rotting out your frame and floorboards as well. Or another idea might be to paint the floor with a concrete sealer available at your local paint or hardware store.

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France, Fri afternoon, 13:44.

The concrete blocks are there as heavy weights to help limit the drum's movement particularly during the washer's hardest task which is spinning.
All washing machine models need to be very stable. If they are not then damage can be the result.
Following is a copy of my guidance notes for ensuring that the feet are properly adjusted. Sorry but the last paragraph appears to be particularly pertinent.
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Hi from retired Englishman in SW France

I mostly answer front load problems but ' out of balance' is a common problem with both!
So- I don't know your particular machine but the initial cure is the same.
It is necessary to ensure absolutely that the machine, even when empty, has all 4 feet very firmly on the floor, and I mean firmly ;-0)

Doesn't matter whether it is empty or not but switch it off then-
very firmly push one front corner diagonally into the centre of the machine (sorry about my UK spelling!) and see if the machine moves or rocks AT ALL, even the slightest. If it does you will need the open-ended spanner which came with the (new) machine........which of course went missing a long time ago?!! An adjustable spanner will suffice.
Adjust the foot under that corner downwards until it is very firmly- almost pushing- against the floor but not so far that the corner lifts up!
If this corner did not rock do the same to the other.
Once you cannot rock the machine the slightest little bit, screw the locking nuts up tight to the underside of the machine so that they will not move. Ideally the rear feet should also be locked.

If this has not cured the problem it is possible that the internal drum suspension is malfunctioning
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Good luck,

John C

Hi,
It seems as though you have an unrelated water leak....
Often the water supplies are copper tubing....
Copper tubing and concrete do not get along well...
but hey it lasts till the warranty is up....
and they can't see it from their house...

heatman101

The highway department fixes this by drilling a hole and then pumping concrete under the concrete until it lifts up.

I suggest you contact local concrete company to see who does this type of pumping. I've seen them fix driveways.

Don't know how much it costs.

There should be mixing instructions on the bag of concrete, but it is 1 part cement, 2 parts sand and 3 parts gravel.

Peer and beam floors do create a problem for front loaders. Sometimes you can get rubber mats under the feet of the units and this will aid in absorbing the vibration. 95% of the time its an installation error. If you look at the feet or legs of the unit you will notice they have nuts on them. When they are tightened up snug to the bottom of the cabinet this usually stabilizes the machine to eliminate the vibration. Plus the unit to tilt back ever so slightly with the front being higher than the back. Maybe 1/4 inch rise no more. Level width ways is a must but back to front needs to tilt. Try the mats and feet and get back to me. thanks dale