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Sounds like one of them has incorrect values. You need to check the resistance marked on the original speed and throttle pots, with the new ones. Generally a throttle pot is 5Kohms and 20 or 200 ohms for the speed pot.
Could be the Throttle Pot or Speed Pot. The levers will change the resistance of the throttle pot. The speed pot feeds the throttle pot.
Move the speed pot while pushing the lever forward. If it works could be the speed pot has a dead spot on it. Also check wires loose and a mechanical issue with the throttle pot and the springs.
The usual remedy is to replace both the tiller pot and speed pot at the same time. If your battery gauge is NOT dropping when speed is dropping then you need a tiller pot replacement as well. These parts have a typical 3-5 year life expectancy.
Not sure about the actual voltage, but the primary power board shows 94 V @ 2A. As this appears to be a variable speed drive, the voltage amplitude should vary depending on the speed potentiometer setting. The most likely culprit is the speed potentiometer. Poor design causes vibrations on the printed circuit board. This induces metal fatigue in the potentiometer terminations at the board. Eventually one or more terminals snap off. You could try removing the pot and connecting the wiper termination connection directly to the relative end for full speed? This is assuming you want it to run at full speed? Failing that you could try variable resistance settings and then replace the pot with a fixed resistance for the required final speed?
Yup you got a code seven failure code, speed pot malfunction . What
pots typically do is that they oxidise. This pot is a variable
rersistor that opeates between 0 - 30k ohms. When tuning the pot it
shoud ram up and down smoothly. To test for this You may also need a VOM meter only $9
batteries from the scooter. Simply attach the multimeter to the pots
terminals, select correct ohms scale and watch the needle. Th needle
when turning the pot should move gracefully up to 30k down to zero as
the pot dial scooter speed increases. Failure is detected when the
needle jumps around, the oxidation causes the pot to connect
inteermitently. USE CRC CONTACT Cleaner to get the oxidation out of the
pot. The potss are not sealed so there are little holes you can spray
into. Use liberal of cleanner.
2 airflow sensor out of operating range 3 coolant temp sensor out of operating range 4 oxy sensor indicates full rich 5 throttle potentiometer/airflow sensor... (low throttle pot signal with high airflow sensor signal) 6 throttle pot/airflow sensor...... (high throttle pot signal with low airflow sensor signal) 7 throttle pot...idle fuel adjustment failure(idle speed??) 8 intake air temp sensor...open or shorted circuit to sensor 11 Throttle pot at idle: Throttle pot idle trim out of normal range 12 Airflow meter: MAF signal out of range 14 Coolant thermistor: Resistance out of range or static during engine warm up 16 Air thermistor: Resistance out of range 17 Throttle pot: Out of range 18 Throttle pot/Airflow: Low throttle pot signal at high airflow 19 Throttle pot/Airflow: High throttle pot signal at low airflow 22 Fuel pump drive: ECU output to fuel pump relay 23 Fuel supply: Engine running too rich 24 Ignition Drive: ECU output to ignition Amp 26 Air leak: Engine running too lean 29 ECU self check 33 Injector Drive: ECU output to injectors 34 Injector: Looks for Injector dribble 37 EGR Drive: ECU output to EGR switching valve 39 EGR check sensor: EGR not working (normally pipe blocked) 44 Lambda (O2) sensor: Poor mixture control rich or weak (or misfire) 46 Idle speed Control valve: ECU output to Coil AB 47 Idle speed Control valve: ECU output to Coil CD 48 Idle Speed Control Valve: Stepper motor grossly out of position 66 Air pump: ECU output to air pump relay 68 Road speed sensor: Seen speed < 5km/h at high engine airflow 69 Drive/Neutral switch: Seen cranking in "D" or high airflow in "N" 89 Purge Valve drive: ECU output to purge valve this is all I could find